A third SUX2BU fix for the convertible rub marks. GM take note!

[Lightrider]

Well done!

And as I posted in Birdibles thread, the tops mark vary by car probably based on how deep the top collapses on itself and it looks like you found how to control it.

I'm book marking this thread to apply in March.

GM owes you another beer...or maybe by now a small micro-brewery.

[gaddied]

Originally Posted by SUX2BU

Ok, you may have seen my first fix that GM actually copied and made their "Official fix" www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153498

I still had some rub marks so I did a second fix with some flashing tape I had laying around http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1058

Well, I was still getting some slight rub marks so I decided to work on another fix. They aren't very bad and almost disappear after a good wash, but I finally got bored enough to try to fix them. I was going to cut the plastic rail where I applied the tape but thought that was a bit drastic and 99% of you wouldn't be willing to do that. I also didn't want GM to say anything when their "Official in the works fix" comes out later if i hack up my rails.








Here is my lotion test that tells me exactly what is going on. I put a little lotion on the rails where the canvas contacts it and obviously the more pressure between the rail and the canvas the more lotion that will transfer to the canvas. Here is my control results before I changed anything.
I also made sure to reapply fresh lotion for every test so I could get consistent results.












I figured there had to be a stop or something that could be adjusted so that the top doesn't close on itself so much.
I found the stop that comes to rest on the rail itself. Its not really that the rails pinch the canvas top, more like the edge of the canvas top is stretched over the rail when the top is down. The pressure from the top being stretched across the rail is what causes the rub marks. The rough texture of the rail makes these marks even worse. That is why the tape I put on the rail helps alleviate the marks a little bit. If the stop was just a half inch longer I believe that would work just fine.




I thought about just unbolting the stop and adding some spacers under it for a cleaner install that adding a bunch of pieces of tape but this stop also pulls the canvas top and so moving that might loosen the tightness of the top. I didn't feel like messing with all that so I just used a bunch of tape. It an easily removable fix until GM comes out with their fix.







I decided that the best way to space this out would be to use some flashing tape and stack it up on the rail where the stop contacts it. On my car I could see little rub marks on the rail where the stop contacts it. If you don't have that many miles on your car you may not see these marks. You can put your top all the way down and use a marker to reach in to the rail and mark where the stop contacts it, it is very easy to see with the top down.

Putting tape in this area is fine since it is only visible when the top is halfway through its operation. When closed or open you can not see this at all.

Obviously the bigger you make the spacer the higher the top will sit when you drop it so you don't want to go over board. I first put about 1/4" of spacers on the rail and did another lotion test to see how close I was.










I didn't want to put too much on the rail, so I put a few more layers of tape on the rail and then also put some on the tip of the stop. All together I would say that I put about 3/8" of tape on each side. I did another lotion test and was happy with the results. There was barely any contact between the canvas and the rail so this is where I stopped.

Now when you do this the top will sit a little higher when lowered all the way down. Mine only sat about 1/4" - 1/2" higher but the boot still fit just fine. It actually fit a little more snug so I think that will help keep it tucked and grounded so it won't take flight.

BTW: Before anyone asks that is not the final version of the Wind Restrictor in the pics. The final version fits a lot better. It is moved farther back so it lines up with the gap behind the seats and the brackets are more contoured to the trim panel.

Instead of using all tape. Could you use a thick piece of leather and glue or tape it on? It would look better and maybe last longer.
Just a thought.

[Ph4r]

Great Job Man! Thanks! I can't wait to get mine into a dealer in the spring when I'm sure they can address the small things I have on my car. Small Top Dents, Rear Passenger Window Road Noise. Keep driving this Winter and hopefully all will have some fixes come spring.

[SUX2BU]

Originally Posted by gaddied

Instead of using all tape. Could you use a thick piece of leather and glue or tape it on? It would look better and maybe last longer.
Just a thought.

This is some pretty heavy duty flashing tape that does not compress much. This tape sticks on VERY well but still leaves nothing behind when removed (in case GM comes out with a real fix). I thought about putting a piece of hard rubber but did not want to have to super glue it on my car. I'm not sure how you could attach a piece of leather on the rail with out it leaving something behind when removed. Where would you even get a piece of leather that thick? I guess you could stack them together and super glue them, either way the tape worked great for me.

[Wantconvertible]

[Drago77]

I'm thinking rubber stopper w some 3m double side...

[CooG]

What about using washers (or rubber washers) between the bolt and the frame to lower the stop. You may need a longer bolt, but that's easy.

BTW Sux, I'm getting the same marks as you right over the windows, but a bit less. Washes away no prob. Beginning to get a few rub marks in the middle and sides of the top where it rubs the back frame/body while flapping in the wind when the top is down.

[FLYZNTN]

Originally Posted by CooG

What about using washers between the bolt and the frame to lower the stop. You may need a longer bolt, but that's easy.

Ditto.

Sux2BU,

Thanks for the research and time you've put in on this.

[SUX2BU]

Originally Posted by CooG

What about using washers (or rubber washers) between the bolt and the frame to lower the stop. You may need a longer bolt, but that's easy.

BTW Sux, I'm getting the same marks as you right over the windows, but a bit less. Washes away no prob. Beginning to get a few rub marks in the middle and sides of the top where it rubs the back frame/body while flapping in the wind when the top is down.

Originally Posted by FLYZNTN

Ditto.

Sux2BU,

Thanks for the research and time you've put in on this.

Way ahead of you guys. Read this excerpt from my original post.

Originally Posted by SUX2BU

I thought about just unbolting the stop and adding some spacers under it for a cleaner install that adding a bunch of pieces of tape but this stop also pulls the canvas top and so moving that might loosen the tightness of the top. I didn't feel like messing with all that so I just used a bunch of tape. It an easily removable fix until GM comes out with their fix.

[Jay-SS]

Good Job!

[FLYZNTN]

Originally Posted by SUX2BU

Way ahead of you guys. Read this excerpt from my original post.

Got it. Thanks.

[v8]

Awesome job, us vert owners owe you one
Thanks

[Drago77]

waiting... seems like a plausabe fix... top height worries me tho... a lot of wind getting under the top as it is- thinking Sux's wind restrictor may be elimintating some of the air flow the rest of us will get...

Still believe the root of the problem lays within the rail design... PLEASE GM- do SOMETHING!!!!!!

[95birdible]

I emailed Jack today saying you said there would be a fix in January is there?
We shall see if he emails me back. If so I will keep you posted.