Code 32 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

USAC97 · 04-26-2012, 02:46 AM

My mom has a '91 Z28 she bought new. For several years it has had a problem with triggering code 32. I have changed the EGR valve 3 times, the EGR solenoid, and the computer a couple of months ago. It won't set the code around town, only when cruising down the freeway. I have cleaned all the passages in the manifold as well, and nothing changed. When it triggers the code, the car doesn't even run any different. It still runs and idles perfect. I am thinking a vaccuum leak or restriction in the vaccuum line going to the EGR valve. I am out of ideas. The lines are hard plastic, so I never thought that could be the problem. Does anyone have any other ideas?

garcmol · 04-26-2012, 09:18 AM

Here is a great article on this subject

http://www.thirdgen.org/egrdiagnose

Now, more than likely it is a vacuum leak. In the article I linked, it talks about how at highway speeds, this is when this typically happens. If the vacuum line is broke or plugged, the ECM doesn't see an increase in temp when the solenoid opens (recirculating exhaust gases) and throws the code.

Happened to me yesturday. Pulled over, turned it off, started it, no light. Seeing how you've replaced the EGR valve 3 times already, I would be checking those vacuum lines. Some are brittle plastic and the soft rubber they go into get dry rotted. So dilectic grease massaged into them helps, but it's sort of a quick fix. Hope some of this helps you!

It would be so cool to have bought my '91 new, but I've got it now!

USAC97 · 04-30-2012, 12:48 AM

I changed the hard vacuum lines going to and from the solenois and egr valve. It made no difference. While cruising along, the CEL came on, but the car didn't run any different. Anyone know of a chip or something that takes out the sensitivity of the EGR valve? Does Hypertech or the like do that? The only thing left is that I changed the fan switch to a 200 degree one so it wouldn't run so hot when in traffic. It runs 180-190 now. Would that do it?

garcmol · 04-30-2012, 07:23 AM

It could be a bad electrical connection at the solenoid.

one92rs · 05-01-2012, 10:01 AM

it could also be the passages between the head and the intake. the intake would have to be removed in order to clean it.

04-26-2012, 02:46 AM	#1
USAC97 Drives: 1968 Camaro SS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Bakersfield, CA Posts: 19 View My Garage	Code 32 My mom has a '91 Z28 she bought new. For several years it has had a problem with triggering code 32. I have changed the EGR valve 3 times, the EGR solenoid, and the computer a couple of months ago. It won't set the code around town, only when cruising down the freeway. I have cleaned all the passages in the manifold as well, and nothing changed. When it triggers the code, the car doesn't even run any different. It still runs and idles perfect. I am thinking a vaccuum leak or restriction in the vaccuum line going to the EGR valve. I am out of ideas. The lines are hard plastic, so I never thought that could be the problem. Does anyone have any other ideas?

04-26-2012, 09:18 AM	#2
garcmol Drives: 10 1LT SIM; 91 B4C sleeper Z Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Ft. Mitchell, Alabama Posts: 7,198	Here is a great article on this subject http://www.thirdgen.org/egrdiagnose Now, more than likely it is a vacuum leak. In the article I linked, it talks about how at highway speeds, this is when this typically happens. If the vacuum line is broke or plugged, the ECM doesn't see an increase in temp when the solenoid opens (recirculating exhaust gases) and throws the code. Happened to me yesturday. Pulled over, turned it off, started it, no light. Seeing how you've replaced the EGR valve 3 times already, I would be checking those vacuum lines. Some are brittle plastic and the soft rubber they go into get dry rotted. So dilectic grease massaged into them helps, but it's sort of a quick fix. Hope some of this helps you! It would be so cool to have bought my '91 new, but I've got it now! __________________ Pedders Pace Car Package, Injen CAI, Flowmaster AT, AAC Lighting, ZL1 fascia/skirts, RKSport Ram Air hood, vented fenders, painted stripes (Gary's Customz), Honor and Valor badged (Thank you, John)

04-30-2012, 07:23 AM	#4
garcmol Drives: 10 1LT SIM; 91 B4C sleeper Z Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Ft. Mitchell, Alabama Posts: 7,198	It could be a bad electrical connection at the solenoid. __________________ Pedders Pace Car Package, Injen CAI, Flowmaster AT, AAC Lighting, ZL1 fascia/skirts, RKSport Ram Air hood, vented fenders, painted stripes (Gary's Customz), Honor and Valor badged (Thank you, John)

05-01-2012, 10:01 AM	#5
one92rs Drives: 1992 chevy camaro rs Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: league city Posts: 21	it could also be the passages between the head and the intake. the intake would have to be removed in order to clean it. __________________

04-30-2012, 12:48 AM	#3
USAC97 Drives: 1968 Camaro SS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Bakersfield, CA Posts: 19 View My Garage	I changed the hard vacuum lines going to and from the solenois and egr valve. It made no difference. While cruising along, the CEL came on, but the car didn't run any different. Anyone know of a chip or something that takes out the sensitivity of the EGR valve? Does Hypertech or the like do that? The only thing left is that I changed the fan switch to a 200 degree one so it wouldn't run so hot when in traffic. It runs 180-190 now. Would that do it?