Pulley 101 .......info for dummies like me

[Rat]

Originally Posted by PQ

So then we agree that a 2.8" 6 rib pulley for a maggie is ludicrous?

And I am going with an OD Cog set-up on the rear of my Maggie. I still have my 3.6" pulley at home. So I can try that one first and see what the boost levels are. I guess I'll have to do it with a boost gauge on the street. Til I can get to a dyno.

I"m guessing this will be the most cost effective way too?

I have a member with an OD cog drive and fuel rail to sell. Plus I've contacted Jesicca as well.

My engine is not forged so I am not chasing max boost. 8-9 pounds is all I care to chance. My car is tuned just fine so I need no tune.

My whole reason behind doing this is that it sit uncomfortable with me that my belt is slipping so badly. Or is it. Vengeance said it isn't. That it's perfectly normal.

So my next question is does that sound plausible? I've never seen anything out of Vengeance that is not top notch work.

These are my cam specs '223/231 .610/.617 115+4' and my long tubes have 1 3/4 primaries into a 2.5" collector.


Also, what are the dangers with a set-up where the belt is slipping as mine appears to be?

Again, just trying to fully understand more of the intricacies of it all.


Is it possible for my belt to all of a sudden grab and boost through the roof? Obviously a slipping belt only get's worse, never better, but that wouldn't be dangerous to the engine I wouldn't think. Just not creating the power you are used to.

Bottom line my car is a DD and I drag race about once per year. But I want to start going once a month or so. So I want to know my car is up to the task and safe.

Supercharged SS, what is a RIP Pulley? Just a brand or made differently?

(Totally just curious, I know I don't need one)

The rip pulley has cuts in the pulley giving a small edge to grip the belt.

You could just try to use a rip 2.8 and see how it goes. What belt you use is a big one too! Everyone has a kind of belt they like. I ONLY USE Gates HD Fleet runner "Green" belts... Strongest I have found and very little slip.

Over driven crank might not be the way to go if your never going to forge your engine. But if you are hands down go OD cog.

[Supercharged SS]

Originally Posted by Rat

The rip pulley has cuts in the pulley giving a small edge to grip the belt.

You could just try to use a rip 2.8 and see how it goes. What belt you use is a big one too! Everyone has a kind of belt they like. I ONLY USE Gates HD Fleet runner "Green" belts... Strongest I have found and very little slip.

Over driven crank might not be the way to go if your never going to forge your engine. But if you are hands down go OD cog.

The problem being that if that pulley produces the boost a 2.8 is supposed to PQ will not be a happy camper!!

[S3XPanther]

Originally Posted by jrpxxii

This might help some of you trying to figure out what the psi should be with pulley swap:

The stock boost for any Magnacharger TVS 2300 Supercharger Kit installed upon any 2010 - 2012 Camaro 6.2L V8 with a 3.80" Magnacharger Pulley installed on it is only 6 psi at wide open throttle.

- 3.60" pulley: expect 2.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 8.0 psi
- 3.40" pulley: expect 4.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 10.0 psi
- 3.20" pulley: expect 6.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 12.0 psi
- 3.10" pulley: expect 7.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 13.0 psi
- 3.00" pulley: expect 8.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 14.0 psi
- 2.90" pulley: expect 9.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 15.0 psi
- 2.80" pulley: expect 10.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 16.0 psi
- 2.70" pulley: expect 11.0 psi. more boost over stock pulley -Total boost 17.0 psi

PLEASE NOTE: If running Long-Tube Headers, you will lose 2 PSI of Boost and to gain that back, choose a pulley 2 sizes smaller!

WARNING: The only way to install the 2.70" Pulley is to have the Jackshaft Housing machined down for it to fit properly. Some Jackshaft Housing Castings are made differently in sizes and do vary, as to what the smallest pulley you can use without maching. The smallest size we recommend is 2.80", without any machining performed on the jackshaft housing casting area.

This info should be a sticky, just sayin'

[victoryred1ss]

Originally Posted by PQ

So then we agree that a 2.8" 6 rib pulley for a maggie is ludicrous?

And I am going with an OD Cog set-up on the rear of my Maggie. I still have my 3.6" pulley at home. So I can try that one first and see what the boost levels are. I guess I'll have to do it with a boost gauge on the street. Til I can get to a dyno.

I"m guessing this will be the most cost effective way too?

I have a member with an OD cog drive and fuel rail to sell. Plus I've contacted Jesicca as well.

My engine is not forged so I am not chasing max boost. 8-9 pounds is all I care to chance. My car is tuned just fine so I need no tune.

My whole reason behind doing this is that it sit uncomfortable with me that my belt is slipping so badly. Or is it. Vengeance said it isn't. That it's perfectly normal.

So my next question is does that sound plausible? I've never seen anything out of Vengeance that is not top notch work.

These are my cam specs '223/231 .610/.617 115+4' and my long tubes have 1 3/4 primaries into a 2.5" collector.


Also, what are the dangers with a set-up where the belt is slipping as mine appears to be?

Again, just trying to fully understand more of the intricacies of it all.


Is it possible for my belt to all of a sudden grab and boost through the roof? Obviously a slipping belt only get's worse, never better, but that wouldn't be dangerous to the engine I wouldn't think. Just not creating the power you are used to.

Bottom line my car is a DD and I drag race about once per year. But I want to start going once a month or so. So I want to know my car is up to the task and safe.

Start with the 3.8 pulley if you just want 8-9 psi. I think the 3.6 will put you closer to 10-11 psi. Also your belt isnt going to magically catch and give you a "nos" boost.

[PQ]

Ok. Been on the phone with Ted.

and



Supertensioner.



I"m going to try a supertensioner and a 3.4" pulley from JRE.

Log it and go from there. Ted believes that should do the trick. If not then we could POSSIBLY try the 3.2 I have. Unless the 3.4 doesn't get me there do to slippage.

He doesn't think I need a OD cog set-up considering everything else is stock. A 3.4" pulley and upgraded tensioner should be able to do what I need and be more cost effective. So I'd come away cheaper in this case and be solid.

It's possible I could produce more boost on the street so maybe even a 3.6 pulley. More than likely a 3.4 though.

Originally Posted by Rat

The rip pulley has cuts in the pulley giving a small edge to grip the belt.

You could just try to use a rip 2.8 and see how it goes. What belt you use is a big one too! Everyone has a kind of belt they like. I ONLY USE Gates HD Fleet runner "Green" belts... Strongest I have found and very little slip.

Over driven crank might not be the way to go if your never going to forge your engine. But if you are hands down go OD cog.

You might be right. Ted would kind of agree. lol

Originally Posted by Supercharged SS

The problem being that if that pulley produces the boost a 2.8 is supposed to PQ will not be a happy camper!!

Originally Posted by S3XPanther

This info should be a sticky, just sayin'

I thought it was. I've seen it before.

Originally Posted by victoryred1ss

Start with the 3.8 pulley if you just want 8-9 psi. I think the 3.6 will put you closer to 10-11 psi. Also your belt isnt going to magically catch and give you a "nos" boost.

I"m sure it wouldn't but that WOULD suck.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by PQ

And the cog drive will take care of it because I'll have much more belt wrap on front and if there were slippage on the rear too, then the cog drive would take care of that as well even though it would be two new pulleys anyway.

Originally Posted by Turbo99

I guess I am just picky and can only read what you write. Above you say COG drive like it will help your belt slip....wrong only if it is slipping in the rear. I think what you mean is to run a OD cog setup which will allow you to run a larger pulley up front to get more belt wrap at the same boost level.

I know what you mean but you say something different in a diferent way every post.

Going back and reading I see what you are saying.

My quoted post should have been typed more like this:

And the cog drive will take care of it because I'll have much more belt wrap on front due to having a bigger pulley up there now and if there were slippage on the rear, in the current set-up, then the cog drive would take care of that as well, even though two new pulleys might help anyway.

[Supercharged SS]

PQ, didn't you want your car to whine as much as yourself?!

Sorry, I couldn't resist!!
Glad to see Ted is on the case.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Supercharged SS

PQ, didn't you want your car to whine as much as yourself?!

Sorry, I couldn't resist!!
Glad to see Ted is on the case.

I've heard the video on this thread but I am scared to do a cog drive because the ones I had heard I didn't like.

If I end up needing one then I'll live with it.

[Turbo99]

Originally Posted by Supercharged SS

You're 100% correct. I just wanted to get the point across at no point do we need a 2.8 pulley. There are better ways to make boost rather than just throw a tiny pulley on.

I run an OD rear cog, 10% OD crank pulley, one off JRE super tensioner clocked an extra 10 degrees, all on 8 rib pulley's. I also just got an RIP 8 rib 3.2 pulley. I'm looking for 18 psi this Friday!

What did Ted do to clock it/ and which way did he go toward the clockwise or counter clockwise?

[Supercharged SS]

Originally Posted by Turbo99

What did Ted do to clock it/ and which way did he go toward the clockwise or counter clockwise?

Ted asked my boy Matt at ECS to hook it up. Honestly that's as much as I know. Well, that and the fact that Matt won't let me forget that he had his ECS logo engraved on it!

I'm guessing the 10 degree clock would be more travel? IDK

[Turbo99]

I can see why it would need more clock. Like I said earlier at WOT it goes away from the S/C pulley causing less wrap as it gets tighter as you go up in RPM.

[hot ss]

maybe pq should be less greedy, and go with a plain old 3.4 and live with 8lb off headers....
nice strip/streetable combo, imho. i keep my stock pulley on for commuting anyways, and pulley down for track days. i can have more timing, and get better mileage with less boost. i keep a stock ratio cog on the back, cause i dig the sound.
K.I.S.S.

[PQ]

That'll be what the 3.2 is for. IF I need it. hahahaha

[G8-4-Speed]

http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=32614

The lower manifold cost 40+ cfm stock compared to ported. I have setup a 6.0 G8 with a L76 stock tensioner, a 6-rib, 1900, cog OD, and 2.8 front pulley to 15psi. Got the boost down to 13.5 and it has never slipped. If you can't make boost with a 2300, it is either a bad gauge, belt slip, or a huge cam. If you have a good tuner, you should be able to scan and read the MAF to tell how well the blower is working. If the fuel and air numbers look right and the car post good 1/4 mi MPH, then whether 6 psi or 16 psi, don't care....wish they would rate the pulleys by hp/cfm over boost. Another reference is IAT, at 6psi if the blower isn't spinning hard enough, you IAT should be 110-ish at WOT. A 2.8 pulley should start putting some heat in that intake and the IAT should show it.