twin turbo 2010 ss

[xjer22x]

Originally Posted by pierre777

Pics please.

It was weird that they weren't showing, but thanks for letting me know. They should be working now.

Originally Posted by GunnyG

This is absolutely SYCK

Thanks man, i appreciate it

Originally Posted by pyr0b0y

18 rims with turbos? does your kit come with a skid plate or do the turbos not hang that low?!?! im scrapping everything with 19in rims! what kind of rubber you got on those tires?

cant wait to see some pics of your ride!

Yeah, i have nitto 305/45/18 DR for the rear only. I have been driving with this setup for over a year now with no issues at all. The turbos are high enough where i really haven't had to worry about it. you can see in one of the pics how high up they are. Plus the wheel well protects the intake side enough to where nothing will get in there. Pics are up now so take a look.

[jamaro2011]

i like your set up! do u have any turbo lag issue? & you have any pics of under the hood?

[xjer22x]

The only reason for the lag is the large turbine wheel and having .84 AR on the exhaust side. I'm fully spooled now right around 3500rpm. I will be changing the turbos out to fix this part.

Ill get some pics of the engine bay in the morning for you.

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[xjer22x]

so now that i had the car back and finally had more free time due to the new job, i took the car to the track

it really was a difficult time there. launching ended up being a pain because the new clutch just can't be slipped so you have to modulate it. basically i would spin off the line because it grips like a light switch. On or off. So i had to baby it at launch which netted me on average 2.2 60ft times. Not that good at all, and the other downside is that due to the slow take off, i could not keep traction once the turbos kicked in. If i didnt spin off the line, i would spin pretty much all of 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. You can hear it in the videos below. Best time i could pull was a 12.55 @ 119 :-/ not too happy.





Since i was so disappointed with my trip to the track, i wanted to try and correct my traction issue. The best way to do this would be get some new rubber in the back. Although the car looks great with the stock 20 inch rims, it is not the best for the straight-line traction. And the other obstacle that GM liked to throw at us is that they put some monster 14.4 inch rotors on the back of this bad boy. Believe it or not the fronts are only 14 inches... so the backs are bigger??? ok anyways without spending about $4000 on some weld racing wheels, one of the best options i could pick up would be a set of C6 Z06 corvette wheels. They are 18 inch wheels with +40mm offset that are also 9.5 inches wide ( 1/2 an inch widder then my stock wheels) so i could fit a little more rubber back there. the end result is what you see below, black c6 wheels with nitto 305/45/18 inch tires to wrap. what do you think?








so here comes the saddest part, and the current state i sit in today... So i finally am confident that i should be able to get some sort of traction at the track, especially after all the adjustments i recently made. I was very confident i was going to hit high to mid 11's at the track labor day weekend. I met up with a group of fellow 5th gen owners and started getting ready to beat the crap out of my car haha... So i got to the track, Jacked up the car and put the wheels on, and waited for my car to cool down and the lanes to open. As soon as i saw the first car take a pass i jumped into my car to get my chance in. So i pull up to the water box, Do a decent little burnout to clean off the tires, and pull up to the staging lanes. I get prepared for the the green light by holding my revs at about 3500-4000 rpm and as soon as i saw the final yellow i gradually let the clutch out and BOOM!!! Next thing i know im pushing my car back to the pits and am jacking the car back up. To my surprise (not really as i knew this was an on going issue with early build 5th gens) i completely snapped my output shaft in half. The drive shaft was just flopping around not connected to the trans any more. i spent the next 2 hours attempting to get a decent tow back to my home town but on a holiday weekend and 70 miles away, it wasnt easy....

so i am currently awaiting and deciding on what the fate of my car will be now.... There have been several suggestions and i dont know what route to go anymore... Built 4l80 automatic :(... sell it and get a toyota... :(... give up and sell the car...no way! i did that once already and will never do it again. I will just keep on going. You gotta pay to play! so we will see where i go from here! keep checking back for updates

[xjer22x]

and now for the good news.... i was able to take it to the track yesterday after getting everything fixed from 2 weeks ago and this is what i was able to do...

[AngelSpeedFreak]

very cool build and car

[xjer22x]

Thanks, I do appreciate that.

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[xjer22x]

So due to my baby taking a couple trips on tow trucks to get her repaired from the snapped shaft, my front bumper got all scrapped and jacked up so I had paint peeling off.

So I have been doing some research and I have decided that I am going to save up for a ZL1 conversion. Soooooo in the meantime I stopped by Steve @ extreme graphics to help with the situation.

I was stuck between. Carbon fiber or flat black so I started out with carbon fiber due to the weight savings hahaha. Plus its a vinyl sticker which is like a double booster. Well at least for Honda's it is. But here is the current results until I can get the conversion done




Didn't come out too bad for my first attempt but man do I have mad respect for those that do it for a living. Takes a lot of patience.

[xjer22x]

my local camaro club, chicago5thgen.com. held their first annual SHOW and GO event at byron dragway. it was a great time.

I was able to achieve my new personal best.

Now i will disclose that i am still learning and trying new things that why my runs werent consistent. But i think i found the sweet spot.

after the burnout I would hold the RPM right at 3200 rpm, and i gradually let the clutch out. Not a true side step but a rapid release. the results were a 1.86 60 ft. i still have room for improvement as the tires chirped a little bit off the line so i'm thinking a bigger burnout when i get the linelock put in.

anyways here is the run. enjoy! i sure did.





and here is a little video of some of the other cars that were running as well.

[pierre777]

Great vids man enjoyed ever one of them thanks for sharing and great numbers op car is a beast.

[xjer22x]

Thanks for the kind words. I appreciate it

[IOM Black Diamond]

Great build thread keep up the great work

[xjer22x]

Thanks for that. Reminds me I have to update this lol

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.

[xjer22x]

so after being able to finally make it to the track several times this year, i have been able to identify a big power killer when it comes to me making multiple passes.

HOT Intake Air Temps.

usually after my second pass i am noticing that my IAT are reaching well over 200 degrees. and for those that arent aware, our computers will start pulling timing as soon as it sees temperatures over 130 degrees. And when timing gets pulled you lose power. I was noticing this in the top of 3rd and all of 4th gear because i basically was losing power

one of the main reasons is i get impatient in between runs so i like to try and get as many passes in a day that i can. So we looked into alternative ways to help cool my temperatures down while running.

yes i can come up with the money to install an intercooler but that would cost a lot of money and take a bunch of time for new fabrication. Plus that still will only cool it between 10-20 degrees roughly. Which isnt bad, but not good enough.

so after a little bit of tweaking and researching i decided to add these mods to my list.

*2000 threaded IAT sensor off a 2000 corvette(gm part number- 25036751)
*pigtail wiring harness (gm part number- 12102620)
*AEM water/meth injection kit

Now i will start explaining the whys behind everything here.

to start i will show a picture of my current chargepipe coming into the throttle body. the current location of my MAF (which also reads our IAT's) is low down behind the radiator on the passenger side. It is a known issue that our MAF's are prone to heat soak. I realized that at idle and normal cruising temperatures, my IAT were displaying on average 110 degrees. No matter what the ambient temperature was. it could 80 degrees outside, or 40 degrees and my idle temps were about 110. That is a perfect sign of heat soak. So we decided not only will adding a separate sensor help with more accurent readings it will allow for my computer to properly take advantage of the cooler temperatures provided by the AEM kit. so here is a shot of the charge pipe before install. you can see the location of the MAF.



and here is the picture of the new IAT sensor and harness i ordered



you can see the actual plastic housing around the IAT allows for much better air flow so it will be able to avoid head soak better and more accurately read IAT's

this is a quick shot of the controller for the water/meth injection







Now just to disclose i decided to go with the threaded IAT sensor because i am running boost. If you want to do this setup and you are supercharged or N/A, you can order the IAT off of an ls1 camaro 98-02 and a rubber grommet (IAT sensor 12160244 & rubber grommet: 24504388). This will allow you to insert the IAT right before the throttle body to give you a much more accurate reading.

so far with my the new location of my IAT. i am seeing idle temps between 10-15 degrees above ambient temperature, and cruising speeds around 15-20 above ambient. that is a huge difference just there alone. also i notice that after doing some pulls with the car it drops back down to these types of temperatures a lot quicker as well.


so not only did install this but like i mentioned above i put in the meth injection. It states to take advantage of the meth as much as possible to install it roughly 6-10 inches away from the throttle body. So we installed in a way that is sprays directly into the throttle body to make sure it sprays evenly. you can see it in the two shots here

if you look down under the radiator cap you can see the nozzle for the meth/water injection, and closer to the throttle body is the new IAT sensor.





i have not been able to make it to the track yet, but i have been beating the snot out of my car the past few days.

i was driving my car the same way i was before to mimic situation when i would see my extremely high IAT's.

an example would be back to back pulls in 3rd to 4th gear. Let me tell you i have never had a hard time trying to bring my IAT's up. It was a night and day difference. i finally got it where just before i started a pull my cruisin temp was right around 100 degrees after 3 consecutive pulls. As soon as my water/meth kicked in my IAT's did not change. The highest i was able to get it to read was 110 degrees and that was with me beating the living poop out of it for about 30 minutes straight. I was amazed. and now my car feels like its pulling just as hard as it does in 2nd gear, in both 3rd and 4th.

what i didnt get a picture of is where my reservoir is. :-) all we did was drill a hole in the bottom of my windshield washer fluid and ran it to my new pump. Yup, i am basically spraying windshield washer fluid into my car to get these results. Very basic, blue windshield washer fluid is a mixture of about 30-35% methanol and 65-70% water. that is what i am spraying into my engine. Sounds scary right. but it is save and people have been doing it for years.


so i thought i would just post up the initial install. i intend on going to the race tack next sunday to test it all out under those conditions. I am hoping that this will allow me to maintain more consistent times when running instead of suffering from timing being pulled due to the crazy high temps i was seeing.

stay tuned for more results.