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Old 08-20-2012, 10:21 AM   #2045
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Well when i was tuned i had 92 in the tank from the track , i just filled up in my
hometown with 93...
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:00 AM   #2046
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Well when i was tuned i had 92 in the tank from the track , i just filled up in my
hometown with 93...
Doesn't matter. You are now tuned on 92. 93 won't do anything for you.

Stock timing map is too aggressive, even for 93. Most tunes back timing off part throttle so it doesn't knock on 93. You can usually add timing at WOT, though, but not much. The maximum timing you will see is what is optimum for 92, even if you pull the fuses.

All pump gas, 92, 93, whatever, is so terrible that cars cannot see maximum timing/HP numbers on it. There is a lot of power left on the table w/regard to the timing numbers, pump gas does not have enough detonation resistance (octane) to see it.

Even if you run race gas, your maximum timing map is only good for 92 anyways. Won't help to run race gas, won't help to run 93.

If you tune your high octane table for race gas, tune your low octane table for 89, then you can run 92 or 93 and the map will stabilize between the two tables. After that happens and you want to run race gas again, pull the fuses to reset to the high octane table.

But again, with your high octane table optimized for 92, you are SOL for anything more than 92. It's just a waste.
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:28 AM   #2047
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson View Post
Doesn't matter. You are now tuned on 92. 93 won't do anything for you.

Stock timing map is too aggressive, even for 93. Most tunes back timing off part throttle so it doesn't knock on 93. You can usually add timing at WOT, though, but not much. The maximum timing you will see is what is optimum for 92, even if you pull the fuses.

All pump gas, 92, 93, whatever, is so terrible that cars cannot see maximum timing/HP numbers on it. There is a lot of power left on the table w/regard to the timing numbers, pump gas does not have enough detonation resistance (octane) to see it.

Even if you run race gas, your maximum timing map is only good for 92 anyways. Won't help to run race gas, won't help to run 93.

If you tune your high octane table for race gas, tune your low octane table for 89, then you can run 92 or 93 and the map will stabilize between the two tables. After that happens and you want to run race gas again, pull the fuses to reset to the high octane table.

But again, with your high octane table optimized for 92, you are SOL for anything more than 92. It's just a waste.

Good info...just bugs me this fuse pull stuff is still such a mystery to so many...lol

No tune on my car...don't put that many miles on it...always put in premium...power still fizzles out after a few weeks, or whatever...lol...It's rediculous...

Doing the fuse pull at least once a month, or before every cruise...always a noticeable "improvement"...
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:56 PM   #2048
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Okay fellas. First I would like to thank the people for discovering this little fuse pull.
I bought my 2010 Camaro SS LS3 in March of 2012 with only 3600 miles on it. (To date it now has 8200.) One owner vehicle that was traded on a new Dodge Challenger.(?)
When I received the vehicle it ran like a raped ape.
About a month and a half later I noticed the car had lost power during acceleration. It wasn't a gradual loss but an instant one.
It was noticeable enough for me to take it to the dealership.
They told me nothing was wrong and it performs as it should. I kind of put it off as maybe I was just getting used to it and the newness wore off. My gas mileage is at 18.5 overall. I drive 30 miles round trip and 2/3 of it is county highway, the rest city.
I just look back and remember how happy I was when I first got it and all the power it had.
After finding this message board and thread. I decided to pull the fuses. I left them out for two and a half hours put them back in, and took it out for a pavement mashing.
I hammered it both off the line and to top speed. It ran awesome, just liked I remembered it.
I have NEVER put anything in the tank but 91 from the same station since I've owned it.. Out here in my area, Iowa, I can't seem to find fuel with higher octane levels.
It worked for me. Let's see how long it lasts.

I appreciate everyone's input and thought it necessary to share my results also.
Once again. Thanks to all that made this happen.
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:51 PM   #2049
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I hammered it both off the line and to top speed.
What was the top speed? 155MPH limited?
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:30 PM   #2050
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Out of curiosity, are there any other cars out there with this issue (non-GM)? Do the Mustangs have to deal with something like this? What about 'vettes?
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:32 PM   #2051
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Out of curiosity, are there any other cars out there with this issue (non-GM)? Do the Mustangs have to deal with something like this? What about 'vettes?
sure same issue, whether they have the fuse pull option or never even know the difference is another story...
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:36 PM   #2052
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So still after 3 years, no one knows exactly for how long the fuses needs to be pulled?
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:14 PM   #2053
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What was the top speed? 155MPH limited?
I have roughly a 3-1/2 mile stretch that is flat and straight, and I have to slow down before hitting a 30 mph corner. Which can be done at 90 mph because I've done it (Thank You Budweiser).
I have had the car up to 158 mph on this stretch.
Last night I hit 152 mph before the corner.

I could barely get to 140 in that amount of time before the fuse pull.

My car is pure stock.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:32 PM   #2054
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So still after 3 years, no one knows exactly for how long the fuses needs to be pulled?
I suppose that is the mystery.
If you get a tank of bad gas or drive it like an old lady, it could revert to the low octane settings.(?)
Unfortunately, with the new ECM's in Chevrolets, the computer (ECM) learns the drivers habits to optimise fuel mileage.
I know with the Camaro you can only reset your oil change to 3000 miles.
I use synthetic and in the owners manual it states that the oil change percentage drops by how you drive it (rpm's).
So I'm only guessing that you can drive the car up to 6500 miles before it's actually due. I drive mine pretty hard most of the time.
I know with mine I had it changed at 8000.
I went 4400 miles before I changed the oil and had 16 percent "oil life". left to go.

It's a huge fine for putting different fuel in the underground tank to make a profit. I heard that minimum fine is 10,000 up to 250,000 dollars.
Some people are crooked and some make mistakes.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:44 PM   #2055
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So still after 3 years, no one knows exactly for how long the fuses needs to be pulled?
No I guess not. I waited two and a half hours.
I can't imagine it should take that long.
The only other solution I can think of is to reset you car back to factory settings with a handheld.
I was told this can be done.
My buddy owns a used car dealership and is going to let me use his Snap-On programmer. He pays 500 dollars every six months to get the latest updates.
He told me to go ahead and plug my car in and see what I find.
I'll let the rest of you know what I find and what I did, if interested.
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:22 AM   #2056
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If you are breaking an electrical circuit, why would you need to wait? I am sure you can also simply disconnect your battery but that also entails resetting your clock.
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:29 AM   #2057
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If you are breaking an electrical circuit, why would you need to wait? I am sure you can also simply disconnect your battery but that also entails resetting your clock.
The only reason I can think of is that there is a stored energy (capacitor)
inside the ECM.
I don't know how long it takes to discharge, if it actually does.
I am new to this up to a couple of days ago, followed the advice of others on here and tried it. It worked for me.
Unhooking your batttery would have little effect on a device that stores its own energy and retains memory after power loss. It's not like you can reset your milegae and the likes by unplugging your battery.
Obviously there are some setting that go back to the factory defaults when pulling the fuses. I will not know which ones exactly, but I should find out when I hook up my buddies diagnotic tool.
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:20 AM   #2058
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The only reason I can think of is that there is a stored energy (capacitor)
inside the ECM.
I don't know how long it takes to discharge, if it actually does.
I am new to this up to a couple of days ago, followed the advice of others on here and tried it. It worked for me.
Unhooking your batttery would have little effect on a device that stores its own energy and retains memory after power loss. It's not like you can reset your milegae and the likes by unplugging your battery.
Obviously there are some setting that go back to the factory defaults when pulling the fuses. I will not know which ones exactly, but I should find out when I hook up my buddies diagnotic tool.
you can unhook your battery cables and touch the cables together (NOT the battery terminals). you will probably need a wire to bridge the gap but that will ground out your system all the way.

somebody correct me if something is different with the Gen5s regarding this method....it is done on many cars of many makes but things change.....
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