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Old 09-11-2012, 08:52 AM   #71
gonabite
 
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Originally Posted by jimmy5 View Post
I am going to check into that cooler reservoir, you know about how much they run?
That I do not know but if you look at Redlines post you will see some pretty clear data on the huge benefit of an extra 2 gallons of coolant makes with a car that is putting down over 700 RWHP.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:23 AM   #72
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As to reading your IAT2s, you can also read them with an aeroforce interceptor digital gauge. Just FYI.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:53 AM   #73
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Has the OP run the car since? I'm curious to see if the tune was off and if the car perhaps ran quicker since the first outing.
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'17 ZL1 10.99@129 stock. 4225# raceweight. Best 60'- 1.66 on factory tires. 10.48@132 E50, intake and tune. 4270 lbs
https://youtu.be/EyHtdH9XOkY
https://youtu.be/Lcu41obbTf8
'13 ZL1 BRM A6. 11.591 @ 119.2 factory stock with a 1.68 60'! Best stock mph 121.8. 11.29 @ 123 RotoFab, drag radials and skinnies. 4360# raceweight.
http://youtu.be/yggIA3C_kkA 2014... back to stock
http://youtu.be/spQLaTWbThs 2013... stock & RotoFab
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:58 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by big dave View Post
Has the OP run the car since? I'm curious to see if the tune was off and if the car perhaps ran quicker since the first outing.
rain friday & sunday no runs yet, I hoping for sunday this week
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:49 AM   #75
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Great! Best of luck to you.
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'17 ZL1 10.99@129 stock. 4225# raceweight. Best 60'- 1.66 on factory tires. 10.48@132 E50, intake and tune. 4270 lbs
https://youtu.be/EyHtdH9XOkY
https://youtu.be/Lcu41obbTf8
'13 ZL1 BRM A6. 11.591 @ 119.2 factory stock with a 1.68 60'! Best stock mph 121.8. 11.29 @ 123 RotoFab, drag radials and skinnies. 4360# raceweight.
http://youtu.be/yggIA3C_kkA 2014... back to stock
http://youtu.be/spQLaTWbThs 2013... stock & RotoFab
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:34 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by tpower View Post
rain friday & sunday no runs yet, I hoping for sunday this week
Good luck and have fun.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:37 PM   #77
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Good luck and have fun.
any day going to the track is a fun day. I really want to run a good number before I have to put the car away.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:48 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by hairtrigger View Post
These RWHP numbers across the board on chassis dynos have no basis in reality in the real world of drag racing.
Not to take away from your awesome times, it's just I get tired of 118 MPH with 600 rear wheel horspower posted from everyone...started with ricers a few years ago
I don't get it? What do you mean here?

I assume you're saying the MPH should be higher and there are other mods besides power to get there. Which I agree but is it wrong to power the car up and have fun with it?
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:11 PM   #79
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So has anybody documented timing being pulled at hi temperatures? I know Ted Jannetty is working on this. it would be great to know accurately how much power is being lost in 100+ degree temperatures like here in Louisiana which is most of the year. I would use that baseline to begin mods..
Where do you race? Im in shreveport and will be looking for a place to drag when my ZL1 comes in next month
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:33 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by boxmonkeyracing View Post
the aftermarket name for the TR6060 if you were to order one is T56 magnum. so one could still call it a t56. . .just sayin.
Yeah, that's true.

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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson View Post
tb doesnt close if u tune it out, so thats not no matter what.....
That would be why my exact wording was "The stock calibration in the E38's on the LS3 cars closes the throttle when you shift no matter what (mine doesn't anymore )."...stock calibration, no matter what, closes it, stock calibration...once you tune the car you don't have that anymore...hence why mine is tuned and now listens to my foot instead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonabite View Post
First of all everyone talking about moving the IAT sensor in the LSA or LS9 is just not educated about the cars.

There are two IATs in the car one in the intake tube IAT #1` and the other is in the blower IAT #2. You cant read this IAT with standard scan u software, you would need HP tuners or EFI live to read this.

The one in the blower is the important one. The blower creates a tremendous amount of heat. Once the blower temps exceed 140F the ECM starts to pull timing. This can be adjusted, but to a point if you want to keep your motor in one piece. The blower can see temps well in excess of 200F and much more. If you really think tricking the IAT into seeing lower temps is good and then stuffing 200F degree air into your cylinders at full spark is good. Then you need more of an education.

What is needed if more coolant capacity for the intercooler. Look at some of Redline Motorposrts results with IATs using there custom coolant tank designed for the ZL1. IATs stay nice and cool even under full throttle pulls.

These are not NA motors where relocating the IAT for a 20 degree drop in temp was beneficial and safe for more power.
Check out the screen shot I posted above...once engine coolant temp exceeds 140, then the IAT will pull timing as cold as 104...not even 140.
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:47 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by MikeOD View Post
Yeah, that's true.



That would be why my exact wording was "The stock calibration in the E38's on the LS3 cars closes the throttle when you shift no matter what (mine doesn't anymore )."...stock calibration, no matter what, closes it, stock calibration...once you tune the car you don't have that anymore...hence why mine is tuned and now listens to my foot instead.



Check out the screen shot I posted above...once engine coolant temp exceeds 140, then the IAT will pull timing as cold as 104...not even 140.
Excuse the TYPO transposed the numbers......
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:30 PM   #82
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Excuse the TYPO transposed the numbers......
Wasn't trying to call you out man, just trying to be helpful.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:48 PM   #83
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Wasn't trying to call you out man, just trying to be helpful.
I didnt think anything negative. Its all good.
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