How to change your oil in V6

[JAustin]

Some late thoughts from another V6 DIY owner who just changed his oil for the second time (1st at 3K, 2nd at 7.5K):

1) You don't need to remove the engine cover to change the oil filter. I use a jointed socket extension to remove / reinstall the filter housing cap, and have no clearance issues at all.

2) I also lower the vehicle after removing the plug, in order to drain out as much oil as possible.

3) Invest a few bucks in a righteous oil drain pan, and you won't have all that mess to clean up. Mine has a diameter of about 15" and catches all the drained oil from the first full burst to the last final dribbles. (I still put a plastic-backed pad underneath it, but use leftover puppy training pads, about 24" square.) My (plastic) oil drain pan has a spout with a threaded cap on one side, a handle molded into the opposite side, and the top edge is curved inward all around, to prevent spills from sloshing oil when scooting it out from under the car.

4) Ditto on pouring in the full 6 quarts, and the recommendations for using sockets and torque wrenches. Also, maybe it changed from 2010 to 2011, but my oil draini plug is 15mm, not 5/8". A 5/8" socket will work on a 15mm plug, of course, but I wouldn't want to strip the head when loosening it.

P.S. I love the under-the-hood filter location; so much better than under the car. (Removing the oil filter on my 4WD Jeep Wrangler is a bear!)

[Jalberdi99]

Quick question, why do you pour the shell brand oil first? What is the purpose of that? Not judging , just asking. I'm doing my first oil change soon.

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Originally Posted by Jalberdi99

Quick question, why do you pour the shell brand oil first? What is the purpose of that? Not judging , just asking. I'm doing my first oil change soon.

I have NEVER heard of using a P.O.S. quart of oil to "force out" any remaining old oil. Just let the old oil drain for as long as you can stand to have it drain. Find something else to do while it drips. Have the oil filter canister open, but protected from dust/dirt/debris intrusion. Open the fill cap but leave the cap atop the fitting. Both of the open fittings allow the oil to drain more fully and keeps the drain from trying to gulp air back into itself while the first few quarts pour out.

Oil change pads? Puppy pads? Try newspaper.

Fram filters do not have a great reputation, but at least the V-6 filters don't have an anti-drain back valve, which has been my main beef with them. Another decent alternative is a NAPA Gold.

Quit using English measurement tools on a metric car. Get the tools that fit, and like mentioned above, ditch the adjustable wrench. You'll end up busting a knuckle, rounding off flats on fittings or damaging something else "when" the wrench comes off the fastener.

Why go to extra trouble with universal joints and extensions to get the oil filter canister lid off when all you have to do is remove the engine cover? Once the fill cap is off, all you have to do is pull up on the front of the cover and it comes right off.

I don't use any fancy ramps, either. a few pieces of short-sectioned lumber will work just fine. I have some unused 2"x8" that I use. Drive up on the first section, then add another set and drive up on those. Voila, 3" extra clearance (a 2"x4" is only 1 1/2" thick, BTW). Bonus points if you have pieces for the rear tire you drive up on at the same time as the front to keep the car level. And never use concrete blocks to support the weight of a car. You know who you are. They break.

Recycle your used motor oil. All the big parts houses accept it for recycling and so does Wal Mart. Use a Home Depot Homer 5 gallon bucket so you don't have to take it in after every change. They refine the stuff and sell it to your dealer so he can put it back into unsuspecting customer's cars brought in with the 'oil change special coupon.'

I made the last sentence up, but it wouldn't surprise me.

John B.

[United_727]

Please invest in the proper tools,too. You're going to strip the pan plug and oil filter nut with that crescent wrench. That and dont use Fram.

[trooper182]

Originally Posted by United_727

Please invest in the proper tools,too. You're going to strip the pan plug and oil filter nut with that crescent wrench. That and dont use Fram.

Thanks for your reply. As you can see in the photos when I removed the pan bolt I did not use the crescent. Also for the filter I would have preferred using a socket but due to someone breaking into my tool shed at the time of this post I had to make due with what I had as I was waiting for my insurance payout. Normally I use Mobil M1C-254 or K&N PS-7003 filters but the local auto store was out and all they had left was fram. Trust me I don't use fram unless I have to. Had to order a new filter and replace it once it came in. But thanks for all advice.

[ryan's camaro]

Are all Mobil 1 Full Synthetic motor oils, dexos 1 approved? Even though it doesnt state it on the label? I was thinking of putting Pennzoil Platinum Full Syn in my 2012 2LT. The 1 qt bottles say that it is dexos approved, but the 5 qt bottle of the same Pennzoil Platinum Full Syn doesnt say anything about dexos..... Can anyone clarify this for me?

[rickyrocket]

The first time I changed the oil on my Camaro I couldnt figure where the oil filter was !!! Nice & easy tho !!!