Thoughts on Fuse pull

[nyrfan]

I'm not sure what did it, the 1st tank of 93, the fuse pull or a combo of both. But I can tell you there is definitely a difference in both response and how the can idles.


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[RollaMo]

Originally Posted by joepeinado

I know this is a stupid question but would the fuses be pulled while the car is running? Or when its off?? I'm new to this -_-

Please DO NOT pull any fuses while the car is running.

[CamaroKid300]

Originally Posted by tonyko1

Yes, it does nothing, but it is easy to do and if it makes you feel like it does something, power on, pun intended.

Heck, if you have a couple hundred bucks lying around, add a catch can, ha.

Lol, jokes on you.

A catch can is actually very effective.

[lsaterz28]

the fuse pull, the Shade Tree machine answer to a problem.

[qwkchevy]

My s.s. has all kinds of power pulled fuse just because and still has same power love it, no differance but it was free had to try it.

p.s. If i read a post that can maybe or maybe not gain H.P. FREE will try it too.

[tonyko1]

Originally Posted by CamaroKid300

Lol, jokes on you.

A catch can is actually very effective.

Laughs on you, you are out $$$$ and the can does nothing, but exchange $$$ out of your wallet to the merchant's wallet who sold it to you. Hope you paid them in confederate currency, ha.

[SS/RSLS3]

fuse pull did nothing for me either. maybe its a mental thing? or should i disconnect my battery as well?

[Eich]

I said this in another thread and I still believe it's number 1:

It's 1 of 2 things:

1. Either there is no problem and the car is properly setting the timing according to octane/knock. And if this is the case, then a fuse pull is advancing the timing farther than it should, giving the car some immediate seat-of-the pants extra power for a little while and gradually retarding the timing back down somewhat to match the actual octane and occurance of knock.

2. Or there is a problem and the car simply won't re-adjust to higher octane tables after it's been lowered.


I find it simply impossible to believe that once the car retards the timing due to knock, that it will never advance it ever again until fuses are pulled or GM sticks a diagnostic tool on it.

[Eich]

Member Higgs Boston has some good commentary around page 83 in the following thread, which I completely agree with:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...se#post5530888

[Apex Paul]

Originally Posted by SS/RSLS3

fuse pull did nothing for me either. maybe its a mental thing? or should i disconnect my battery as well?

If you didn't need it, then it would not do anything. Pulling the fuse to reset the LTFT isn't something that every car requires.

Originally Posted by joepeinado

I know this is a stupid question but would the fuses be pulled while the car is running? Or when its off?? I'm new to this -_-

See below.

Originally Posted by Berzek

From all I've read so far on this matter, I conclude that the car has two fuel tables and it will switch back to the low octane when low octane gas is used. However, it will switch back again to the high octane table when high octane gas is used AND driving pattern so requires it.

the problem is that the tables are not resetting, and staying in the low octane trims.

There are two specific spark timing tables housed in the memory of the vehicle’s Electronic Control Module (ECM). One is used for cars running high octane fuel and the other for when the vehicle is using low octane fuels. Whenever you drive the vehicle, the ECM is constantly making decisions based on the data it receives from all of the sensors in the engine and exhaust. Over time, the ECM will set your Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) to the low octane tables if low octane fuel has been used.

The problem: It seems that if someone puts a low octane fuel into the tank, the vehicle can’t recover from the low octane table. Once in the low octane table the car will continue to use that information even if you are now using a higher octane fuel. Of course the side effect of this is sluggish performance, and we don’t really need to explain the benefits of running a higher octane fuel in a performance application.

If you just purchased your Camaro you wouldn’t be incorrect in thinking that it isn’t uncommon that at some point the car was filled with a less potent gasoline, especially if it came from a used car dealership or from an owner who was uninformed of this problem and wanted to save a few bucks at the pump. The LTFT’s are, unfortunately, a part of the car’s non-volatile memory. That means the information is stored there, and doesn’t reset when the vehicle is turned off.

However, there is a way around this problem. Although the spark tables are part of the non-volatile memory and cannot be removed, they can be reset. A simple solution is to remove a couple of fuses from the fuse block in the engine compartment. Pulling the fuses will allow your Camaro’s ECM to reset itself to the high octane table. If you are running high octane fuel then it remain in the high table until the ECM again detects a low octane fuel.

The process is quite simple;
First, make sure the car is empty of the low octane fuel. Run the tank down low and refuel with high octane. You might consider running a tank or two through before attempting the fuse pull. Once you have better gasoline in the system, locate the two fuses shown in the diagram below. They are in the fuse box located on the passenger side of the vehicle’s engine bay. The fuses are in position #5 and #20. Remove each of these 15 amp fuses and allow the car to sit for a period of at least a few hours. There is a small, grey fuse pulling tool located on the fuse panel (In the diagram below it would be in the lower right corner area). That should make the pulling of the fuses easier. If possible, remove the fuses and allow the car to sit overnight. Once they have been out for several hours, replace the fuses. When started, the car will attempt to use the high octane fuel trims first, and if you keep high octane fuel in the car it should remain on the higher table permanently. Of course, lowered octane fuel in the tank means repeating the process.

[Glen e]

Paul-- I'm a believer, unlike others.....I can only assume you let the car set for a couple hours/overnight to drain the caps......many other cars reset the caps by touching the disconnected batt cables together for 10 secs...Honda and BMW actually teach that in their tech classes...can you conform Chev does the same? I'm almost sure it works on any modern computer car....

[gajagfan]

Originally Posted by Eich

I said this in another thread and I still believe it's number 1:

It's 1 of 2 things:

1. Either there is no problem and the car is properly setting the timing according to octane/knock. And if this is the case, then a fuse pull is advancing the timing farther than it should, giving the car some immediate seat-of-the pants extra power for a little while and gradually retarding the timing back down somewhat to match the actual octane and occurance of knock.

2. Or there is a problem and the car simply won't re-adjust to higher octane tables after it's been lowered.


I find it simply impossible to believe that once the car retards the timing due to knock, that it will never advance it ever again until fuses are pulled or GM sticks a diagnostic tool on it.

The Gen 4 cars would adjust themselves, along with other GM cars that had anti-knock sensors as I understood. It is claimed that the LS3 cars can not re-adjust beck to the higher octane timing once they have gotten a taste of low octane fuel. Seems like a bit of a step back for GM.

[Fraxum]

The first thing everyone should realize is that the only butt-dyno that can be trusted is one that has been calibrated AND tuned. Unfortunately I am still a little behind in this area.

My new 1LE is slow at the track. After two T&T nights the best I can come up with is 13.4@106. And as we all know 1LEs benefit from 20+ more RWHP that other LS3s. So what's my problem? Is it me or the octane table?

So I have mostly 93 in my tank now and I plan to do a fuse pull before I go again.

So who is thinking the fuse pull works and I get faster?

Or the fuse pull works and I run the same? (Because I don't have skills, it's 100% humidity, 110 degrees F, or all three.)

Or that the fuse pull does nothing but I get faster because I finally figure out how to launch with these stiff side-walled Goodyears?

Maybe I need a poll to figure this out. Still .

Suggestion to Chevy: Show the octane table being used in the DIC so we can settle this.

[Apex Paul]

Originally Posted by Glen e

....I can only assume you let the car set for a couple hours/overnight to drain the caps.....

I have never had to do this to my own car, I have never had the problem. However, it is recommended to leave them out for several hours. I say it's just easy to pull it at night when you are finished driving for the day and pop them back in in the morning.