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#1 |
![]() Drives: '11 SW 1LT RS Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Granite Bay, CA
Posts: 717
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Any non splicing method of adding a sub to my NON BA RS system?
I searched the forum and the only solution seems to be this:
http://********.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Su...kit-clone.html But I can not justify spending $69 on a harness. Has anyone done a cheaper option? I would think there is a simple solution.
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#2 | |
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You serious Clark?
Drives: 2012 Summit White 2LS Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 323
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Quote:
Would like to know the same thing.
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#3 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Black LS Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 289
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#4 | |
![]() Drives: '11 SW 1LT RS Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Granite Bay, CA
Posts: 717
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Quote:
but it looks pretty difficult.
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#5 |
![]() Drives: '11 SW 1LT RS Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Granite Bay, CA
Posts: 717
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wait! I might be on to something.. Check this out.. a T-tap
http://www.amazon.com/3M-3MT-B-100-1...=t+wire+splice I think I will give this a try.. Anyone ever used one before? |
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#6 |
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Got Boost?
Drives: 2011 1SS/RS M6 SLP TVS 2300 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 404
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Those t taps or vampire taps are the worst things to use. They allow corrosion into the splice. If you are going to splice into something do it correctly. Soder (can't spell haha) it or use a quality harness.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
__________________
2011 1SS/RS M6
MOD List: SLP 2300 Supercharged, Flowmaster AT Cat back, aux 4 guage cluster, 12" kicker sub and Kicker Zx400.1 amp, PFADT Lowering springs CAI Inc. CAI, Hurst Short throw shifter, JBA 1 7/8 Long tube headers. Future Mods: 416ci stroker. |
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#7 |
![]() Drives: '11 SW 1LT RS Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Granite Bay, CA
Posts: 717
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#8 |
![]() Drives: '11 SW 1LT RS Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Granite Bay, CA
Posts: 717
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#9 | |
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Got Boost?
Drives: 2011 1SS/RS M6 SLP TVS 2300 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 404
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It wont show up over night. However, after a few years especially if you live in a humid climate it will show up. which will cause the resistance of that connection to climb, which could cause problems with that circuit. If you do go that route, get some heat shrink and use it on it.
Quote:
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2011 1SS/RS M6
MOD List: SLP 2300 Supercharged, Flowmaster AT Cat back, aux 4 guage cluster, 12" kicker sub and Kicker Zx400.1 amp, PFADT Lowering springs CAI Inc. CAI, Hurst Short throw shifter, JBA 1 7/8 Long tube headers. Future Mods: 416ci stroker. |
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#10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 RJT Camaro LT2 RS auto shift Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Washington state
Posts: 1,861
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If you are going to use t-taps or pos-taps you should go ahead and solder the wires together you are still damaging the factory wiring.
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#11 |
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I've spliced all sorts of crap by now, but my subs are actually running from the rear speaker connections. Initially (right now I honestly can't remember if I spliced/soldered later or not) I just took a bare wire and was able to stuff it into the plastic clip that plugs into the rear speakers. You can access it from inside the trunk where you can see the bottom of the speakers. I just stripped the wire and stuff it into the plastic clip housing and electrical taped it to the side of the existing wire so it doesn't slip out.
Then you'd need some sort of line out converter. I'm using an MTX RE-Q5 http://www.reqsound.com/ But you could just use a basic line out converter like one of these: https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...d=0CIMBEPMCMAI From there run your RCA cable, or if your amp has high level inputs you could just run directly from that line to the amp.
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#12 |
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Mind you, this is a pretty ghetto way of doing things haha. Over the years I've gotten a lot more professional in my attempts learning the hard way that if you're taking a crappy shortcut to save an hour it'll cost you 10 down the road, so I'll usually now with wiring go with a proper route, soldering and heat shrink tubing. But of course we all do this stuff from time to time
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#13 |
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any splice disrupting the original media material....meaning the direct connection of the wire will impact the quality of ANY signal.
I dont care if its audio signals or power flow. a splice is a splice the best option is to always run new wire for a direct connection. harnesses are nice and easy but they still in fact impact the signal because of the material the contacts are usualy made of. for example: those wire taps have a crappy piece of metal in them that makes the connection. so you just took your nice copper wire and made a splice to a crappy piece of steel and then back out to the nice copper wire. we all know copper is a very good conductor hence why it is used in speaker wire for its ability to let signals travel from point A to point B. just a few facts |
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#14 |
![]() Drives: '11 SW 1LT RS Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Granite Bay, CA
Posts: 717
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thanks for the input guys! That last post really made me think about it!
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| Tags |
| non ba, rca, splice, subs, subthump |
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