babyjulie83's wash demo session

[bluecamaroguy]

Any way you can list out exactly what steps/materials were needed to do this. I don't want to scratch the paint with the dust and dirt from shipping. You seem to use a different method than this thread and it looks like it works as well.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26594

[Jbeazy]

I found this place, http://www.portablewaterdi.com/deionizers.php#, that sells portable water deionizers almost like the one pictured for about $300. Sounds like a little much but it might be worth it

[Steve P]

Originally Posted by CamaroSkooter

And how do you dispose of the old resin?

Direct from the supplier:

"Dispose in accordance with federal, state, and local regulations.

This resin is non-hazardous, dispose of resin via any business or home disposal system."

[Steve P]

Originally Posted by bluecamaroguy

Any way you can list out exactly what steps/materials were needed to do this. I don't want to scratch the paint with the dust and dirt from shipping. You seem to use a different method than this thread and it looks like it works as well.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26594

The process for Number_9's car was done at his location in the middle of the day with no shading. Sundays' demo was done at mine. I used the same concepts for both with just slight variations in completing the jobs.

I have attached an outline of some of my detail process:

Washing/drying the car:
Here in Texas, washing the car can be a chore especially in the summer months. I usually try to get this done either early in the morning before 1000 AM or after the sun has gone down in the evening. If it is not possible to wash indoors, this is the best time to finish the job and minimize the chance of water spots on the finish. Systems like CR Spotless or other water deionizers also provide spot-free rinse alternatives.

To start, I'll wash and rinse the wheels, tires, fender wells prior to washing the body of the car. Using the 16" wheel spoke brush and 20" wheel/fender brush makes it very effective at cleaning these tight or hard to reach areas.

Start with a light surface rinse of the entire body area to remove any light dust and road film. Using (2) 2-3 gallon wash buckets, fill one with water and add several capfuls of the car wash concentrate creating a foamy solution as it fills. A grit guard minimizes the chance of picking up any particles which could scratch the surface during washing. In the second bucket, fill with clean rinse water. Starting with the top surfaces, dip your wash mitt into the soapy bucket, lightly swab the panel using straight strokes to break the surface tension of the remaining light dirt. Dip the wash mitt into the rinse bucket to remove accumulated surface dirt before returning to the soapy bucket to swab the next panel. A light hose rinse of the surface helps to remove any soapy residue before it dries. A second wash mitt can be used to wash the lower parts of the car, further minimizing new scratches or fine lines.

Clay bar: (1-2x/year)
The use of the clay bar is an optional but strongly suggested step in the process to protect your paint finish. It safely removes all types of surface contamination including water spots, tree sap, bugs, tar, paint over spray, old wax, rail dust, and industrial fallout. You will notice how smooth your paint surface becomes as it removes these rough particles from the finish. You will be able to use it to clean the glass and your wheels as well.

After washing the heavy dirt from the vehicle and rinsing thoroughly, use the Clay Magic clay lube solution or make a solution of TC-6 Car Wash in a 16 ounce spray bottle at the rate of ½ capful and fill up with distilled water for best results. Spray the soapy solution on a 2'x 2' section to be clayed. Break the clay bar into 2 pieces and save the other piece just in case should you drop the first piece on the ground. Mold the piece into a circular patty and gently slide the clay bar across the lubricated surface until it feels smooth. Do NOT allow the surface to dry out. As the bar becomes darkened with the surface contaminants, simply stretch, fold and reshape the bar to expose a clean surface. Periodically check the Clay Bar for heavy dirt particles. Repeat process until the entire surface is completed. Do NOT re-use the bar if dropped on the ground. Discard bar after no clean surfaces are visible. Re-wash/rinse the entire completed surface and dry with a clean micro fiber waffle weave drying towel.

Drying after washing:
Microfiber waffle weave drying towels are extremely absorbent and very effective for use in drying the surface after washing. I like to use them just lightly damp to remove the remaining water from paint and glass. Heavy pressure is not needed to remove the moisture. As the towel becomes saturated, simply wring it out and continue drying. An electric blower is also handy to blow out any remaining moisture from crevices, wheels and any other weeping areas. Wipe down door jambs with another damp microfiber towel to remove any light dust, dirt or moisture.

Once completed, detail spray can be used to remove any light water spotting after drying.

The wax or sealant can now be applied any time on a clean, cool surface to maintain gloss, slickness and protection. I like to use our black carnauba creme on darker color cars as it provides additional depth and the polymer sealant on lighter colors and metallics.

Since writing this outline, I have started using the DI treated water for the final rinse after routine washing. As seen on babyjulie83's car, I can now eliminate the waffle weave towel wipedown since it will dry spot free.

[babyjulie83]

Originally Posted by nards444

good idea but a little extreme

Might be considered a bit extreme, but it is so effective. That DI treated water was the best thing since sliced bread....it was so hot outside, the last thing I wanted was to dry the car. I have such huge problems getting the car water-spot free that this is actually something I would like to have.

Originally Posted by Steve @ Tropi-Care

To start, I'll wash and rinse the wheels, tires, fender wells prior to washing the body of the car. Using the 16" wheel spoke brush and 20" wheel/fender brush makes it very effective at cleaning these tight or hard to reach areas.

I ended up buying these two brushes, it made cleaning the wheels so much easier. I was only washing the surface of the polished aluminum so I was leaving tons of brake dust in the back.

I'm hoping the next time I wash my car that it will go much smoother....I haven't taken my Camaro out of the garage for the past couple of days, it looks so clean. I'm having Camaro withdrawal though so i'll have to take it out tomorrow.