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[HRD_WRK]

Thanks

[Synner]

Auto parts store, always replace them or risk leaks. Not something you want in brakes. New hoses should have come with new washers and bolts.

[Caswell239]

Bolts fine, they are called copper crush washers for a reason, they slightly crush creating its seal. Dirt cheap at gm. I have a crush washer kit from a local auto store and the gm ones are slightly different size then the ones you get at an auto store.

[Rob@WretchedMS]

The lines should have come with new banjo bolts and washers.

[Avalnch]

These "banjo" style washers are meant for one-time install use only. They deform when they are torqued down and provide a seal between the bolt and hose fitting. You can get a replacement set from your dealer.

[Gen5SS]

I'm not sure if you had your lines made by a local place or not but I bought mine from Pedders as a kit. They had a new banjo bolt and new washers for each brake line. The washers should be a one time use only, as the new line will seat into the washer differently than the previous lines you had giving you a tight seal. As you torque them down your new lines will seat differently into those washers than the last lines you had. They will not seat as well with the old washers because of the previous grooves in the washers that your old lines made in them. This can cause leaks because of the old grooves your previous lines made in them. If you didn't get new washers with the new lines you received I would highly suggest replacing them. If you have a leak on the body side to the hardline going to the ABS block its most likely the face of the conical seal on the new line is scored and you need to replace the entire line. Hope this helps. From the pics you took it looks like your lines are the pedders ones or at least similar. I had an issue with the brackets with the grommet attached sliding in with the groove because it is smaller than the factory ones I took off and the bracket was bigger than the groove in them. I just placed them in the factory position the same way the factory lines were attached and tightened them down against the bracket without sliding them into the groove because the groove in the new line was smaller in width than the factory line had. I did lube the line's at the grommet area after and positioned the lines through the grommets to have less tension on the factory hard line.

[JusticePete]

Thanks for the pictures HRD_WRK.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by HRD_WRK

Thanks Gen5SS

You are precisely correct and understanding my scenario.

It sound like you installed them (with a matching set facing the same way) with the grommet sandwiched between the UCA mounting bracket and the hose line's plate, like I did on the drivers side pic. confirm?

I must have just gotten a hose with the bracket mount mis installed at the factory. the front will most likely have the same issue.

My only suggestion back to you/others would be not to lube that grommet. Since it is not clamped to the line like eom, it is critical that the line remains fixed and positioned to that point as set up. I moved my line forward-to provide the necessary clearance to the 17 rim and wheel weight, without puting stress on the cable.


I obviously noticed that the brake end is circular vs the squared off GM one that mates against the brakes. The GM design is better because it eliminates potention rotation of the line and banjo bolt loosening up on the passenger side(and subsequent leaks). Not sure if any aftermarket model kept this style

The new 'Set' I thought I paid for only had the lines raw in a box- no other pieces.



Pete / Bob

I guess I would need to know if:

1- I purchased replacement crush washers from the local gm dealer matching stock cam5 pieces- would these be sized correctly (looks like it) / are they the same as the real 'kit'.

2- Is the banjo bolt the same as the stock one? Does it really need to be replaced?

3- Since the washer is softer that the line's end I would think the hose doesn't need to be replaced/no surface damage.

4- Is there a recommended torque spec on the banjo bolt, or 'feel' for proper crush washer seating (start low/ test till hold fluid, then bit more/retest).



Thanks
Tim

Much easier. Send you ship to address and full name to INFO@Peddersusa.com and we'll overnight the copper washers. How many do you need?

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by HRD_WRK

Thanks Pete.

Over lunch, the gm dealer nor my disributer for the hoses didn't have any washers and the local auto parts' were not the same size as my old ones.

I looked at the banjo bolt some more. The hose metal end is narrower than stock. This places the hole in the side the oem bolt off center inside and close to the inner edge. It may work but would prefer to use the bolt as suggest/provided by Pedders.

I sent my info to the email your suggested.

Not looking for free handouts-parts or shipping. This is about doing the install for improved but reliable/safe performance. Was really trying to get this work done this weekend.

Thanks again.
Tim

Tim,

No handouts here. Customer service and safety first.

[Gen5SS]

Yes I positioned the lines the same way you did. Pedders customer service is great, one of the lines wouldn't seat without leaking to the hardline and they overnighted me a new one no charge.

[cornerspeed92]

Hey guys,im not a mechanic,but believe i can do this.I just bought the motive power bleeder kit,and before i attempt that i want to put stainless steel brake lines on my baby.How do i do this?do i drain the whole system,then just take the old ones off,and put the new ones on? then fill the system back up? Thanks in advance.

[cornerspeed92]

Thanks Tim.