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Old 04-25-2013, 12:16 AM   #197
PMJ
Seeking 9s on M6...
 
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Originally Posted by Stealth 2010 2SS/RS View Post
Already got one on the way. Did you ever get a torque spec on the trans flange nut?
No. I bought my fluid on the weekend, and they said to call service during the week... Slipped my mind.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:40 AM   #198
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No. I bought my fluid on the weekend, and they said to call service during the week... Slipped my mind.



Trans flange nut torque for the auto is 105nM (77 lb ft), I'll have the torque for the manual trans flange nut as soon as I find it.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:40 PM   #199
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Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
Trans flange nut torque for the auto is 105nM (77 lb ft), I'll have the torque for the manual trans flange nut as soon as I find it.
That would be great.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:13 PM   #200
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Originally Posted by Stealth 2010 2SS/RS View Post
That would be great.
Manual trans flange nut torque: 57Nm (42lb ft)
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:28 PM   #201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
Manual trans flange nut torque: 57Nm (42lb ft)
Thanks.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:48 PM   #202
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Thanks.
No problem, hope you make out well with the ZL1 IRS swap, I'm piecing mine together but may go another way, still undecided, although I'd like to do the ZL1 swap but not sure about how strong the axles are, and I really don't like the 2 piece driveshaft. I'll keep you posted.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:58 PM   #203
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Quote:
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No problem, hope you make out well with the ZL1 IRS swap, I'm piecing mine together but may go another way, still undecided, although I'd like to do the ZL1 swap but not sure about how strong the axles are, and I really don't like the 2 piece driveshaft. I'll keep you posted.
If you plan on staying at or about 500ish hp I think you should be fine. I could be wrong but read an article saying gm had two engineers on axles to try and break them and couldn't, also redline has some high hp stick ZL1's out there. Best of luck on what way you go.
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Tech AFX Heater Hose Relocation Kit, Black Chrome Wheels
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:14 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth 2010 2SS/RS View Post
If you plan on staying at or about 500ish hp I think you should be fine. I could be wrong but read an article saying gm had two engineers on axles to try and break them and couldn't, also redline has some high hp stick ZL1's out there. Best of luck on what way you go.
It seems when you try to break parts they don't seem to break all the time, it happens when you least expect it, but they do look like strong axles, but GM don't guarantee them?
I saw the video where GM engineers put drag radials on the ZL1 and beat it all day at the track with no problems. But all it takes is a small stress crack, then any part will fail in time. But I'm sure there using stronger steel as well. The more power the more chances of parts breaking.
I wonder how much power it robs with the ZL1 diff compared to the rest, wish someone would do a dyno test on the 3 diffs out now to see the power loss of them all, the 9" probably robs the most but probably is the strongest, for massive power though, if your making 2k plus hp who cares anyway. Wish I was!
Best of luck to you too.
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:30 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
It seems when you try to break parts they don't seem to break all the time, it happens when you least expect it, but they do look like strong axles, but GM don't guarantee them?
I saw the video where GM engineers put drag radials on the ZL1 and beat it all day at the track with no problems. But all it takes is a small stress crack, then any part will fail in time. But I'm sure there using stronger steel as well. The more power the more chances of parts breaking.
I wonder how much power it robs with the ZL1 diff compared to the rest, wish someone would do a dyno test on the 3 diffs out now to see the power loss of them all, the 9" probably robs the most but probably is the strongest, for massive power though, if your making 2k plus hp who cares anyway. Wish I was!
Best of luck to you too.
Just my 2 cents, I would rather have an axle break then the diff. For me it was the most economical solution. Now just have to decide if I wasn't to replace the stock rubber bushings with my pfadt ones.
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Tech AFX Heater Hose Relocation Kit, Black Chrome Wheels
Pfadt trailing and toe arms, Pfadt solid subframe mounts, Pfadt diff bushings, Street Slayer Twin Carbon
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:12 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth 2010 2SS/RS View Post
Just my 2 cents, I would rather have an axle break then the diff. For me it was the most economical solution. Now just have to decide if I wasn't to replace the stock rubber bushings with my pfadt ones.
I'm planning to replace mine tonight. I'll let you know how it goes.

I just dyno'd with the stock diff, so I'll compare that to the zl1 diff as well.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:57 PM   #207
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Originally Posted by Stealth 2010 2SS/RS View Post
Just my 2 cents, I would rather have an axle break then the diff. For me it was the most economical solution. Now just have to decide if I wasn't to replace the stock rubber bushings with my pfadt ones.
I agree with you 100%.

I really like the ZL1 diff, that thing really looks strong, even has a bigger ring gear then the ford 9"!
I would definitely use the pfadt bushings. I know they can be a little tricky getting out but it would be worth it while you have it out anyway.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:15 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMJ View Post
I'm planning to replace mine tonight. I'll let you know how it goes.

I just dyno'd with the stock diff, so I'll compare that to the zl1 diff as well.
I brought her home toady and started taking her apart.
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Tech AFX Heater Hose Relocation Kit, Black Chrome Wheels
Pfadt trailing and toe arms, Pfadt solid subframe mounts, Pfadt diff bushings, Street Slayer Twin Carbon
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:12 AM   #209
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I got a good start tonight, but started getting tired. Turned out removing the trans flange was a PITA. Had to use a cheater bar to remove the nut, and then my balancer puller to pull off the flange. i hope the new one goes on fairly easy...

I decided to change the bushings. removing the rear bushing was a PITA (just like last time w/the SS diff). I started on the wrong side, so had to cave in both sides. Then was able to hammer it out w/a large socket. Wasted about an hour.

The front right side came out fairly easy...bent the front end w/chisel, punch and hammer. THen hammered out w/large socket and hammer (see pics). Less than 20 min.

I decided not to tackle the front left . It didn't look like there would be enough room behind it to hammer out the bushing...and I didn't see anyway to pull it out the front, so i left it as is.

So I have my ZL1 diff installed. I also installed the passenger rear axel and wheel. Tomorrow's another busy day, but i'm determined to find time to finish this up and get back on the road. Should only be a few hours away...
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:59 AM   #210
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I finally got my ZL1 driveline kit as well, and guess what..... It was also missing the driveshaft, trans flange nut and washer. Missing parts should be in on Monday.

The axles that I received have different part numbers than what was originally listed in the kit. The axles that I received are p/n: 22953759, and 22953760. Can you confirm the part numbers that you got?

Also, when installing the axles does the washer get installed on the diff side of the axle or the knuckle side? I hope to start my install tomorrow.

Oh yeah, the ZL1 diff is F**ING HEAVY!
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