06-04-2013, 05:30 AM | #225 | ||
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Louisville, Ky.
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06-04-2013, 06:56 AM | #226 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
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Pretty much yea. I'd even say its like the V6 mustang to a ZR1
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06-04-2013, 10:35 AM | #227 |
Drives: pleather and Chiclets Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: a line somwhere
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hahaha yeaaaaah rb rotors are the shit. 2 piece, light as heck, and have patents to deal with heat.
dba is sand casted i believe then drilled which weakens the metal...weakend metal on brakes is a nono
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06-04-2013, 02:05 PM | #228 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro RS Silver Ice Metallic Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 77
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You guys are killing me!!! I want RB's so bad. Maybe ill just save up and do it right the first time instead of regretting going with less expensive rotors later. Will RB's be overkill with the stock SS brembos all around plus stainless lines and ferodo DS 2500 pads? Or does that sound like and ok setup. Don't want another part of the system to be the rate limiting step if I shell out for racing brake rotors if ya know what I mean. I know 6 piston calipers on the front would be better but prefer to save money somewhere. My RS is nice but it's still only a V6 if ya know what I mean
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06-04-2013, 05:26 PM | #229 | |
Drives: pleather and Chiclets Join Date: Mar 2012
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06-04-2013, 08:44 PM | #230 | |
Drives: 2011 Camaro RS Silver Ice Metallic Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
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06-04-2013, 09:44 PM | #231 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro RS Silver Ice Metallic Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
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Are you referring to the 5000 series T3 slotted two piece DBA rotors or just DBA rotors in general? Would think DBA's two piece series would be lighter than OEM and if they are just slotted and not drilled, would also be pretty strong.
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The Silver Bullet *OV3RDRIV3* |
06-04-2013, 09:45 PM | #232 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro RS Silver Ice Metallic Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
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Thanks Doc! My concern is that I won't like the look of an unmatched set of rotors if I go with RB's on the front and some other brand on the back... Thoughts?!
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06-04-2013, 10:17 PM | #233 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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It's a preference thing. Like for myself, I wouldn't be ok with just having RB's upfront - so I saved up until I could buy all four. But if that doesn't bother you then I say go for it.
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06-04-2013, 10:54 PM | #234 |
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still sand casted then drilled a slot to my knowledge
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06-04-2013, 10:56 PM | #235 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro RS Silver Ice Metallic Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 77
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Agree. My problem is that I am switching from a V6 setup to a V8 SS setup. Hence it's not just the rotors I need to save for if I switch front and rears out at once. I would also have to buy the front and rear calipers and pads as well. Can't use the old stockies from the V6 for a while due to the increased rotor size :/ Oh well. I've narrowed it down I think to RB's all the way around vs. Two-Piece Slotted 5000 T3 ClubSpec's in the front with One-Piece Slotted DBA 4000 T3 ClubSpec's in the rear. Getting closer me thinks. Just bought new rubber which will be installed this Saturday and was thinking about doing the rear brake overhaul at the same time with SS lines. Should I install the front SS lines when I do the rear overhaul even if I leave the stock V6 brake system alone in the front?
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06-04-2013, 11:20 PM | #236 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro RS Silver Ice Metallic Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
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This came off of RB website. May not want to use the Ferodo pads after all if I go with RB rotors...
Since the disc material is has a higher hardness level than OE or other manufacturers' rotors, the same racing pads (brands such as Carbotech or Ferodo) that may have worked great on your original rotors may not work well on RB rotors. These pads, commonly used by weekend racers, are affordable but are often not aggressive enough to be used with RB rotors. Using these types of pads on RB rotors may result in pad deposit at high temperatures, and/or an unsatisfactory "bite" on the rotor at low temperatures. The opposite issue occurs if a pad is too aggressive for its rotor, for instance, using track pads on an OE rotor. The abrasiveness of the pad will wear down the rotor very quickly. This is why it is critical to make sure that the pads and rotors that you use are compatible with each other. For optimal performance and safety, be sure to use true racing pads in conjuntion with RB rotors: brands like Mintex, Raybestos, (Porterfield), Cobalt or Pagid. Racing Brake have worked closely with Hawk to develop rotors that are compatible with these pads. True racing pads are able to handle high temperatures without the concern of pad deposit. Any use of noncompatible pads is at your own risk.
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06-04-2013, 11:47 PM | #237 | |
ROAD COURSE JUNKIE
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06-04-2013, 11:58 PM | #238 |
Dances With Mustangs
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If you can afford it upgrade to SS Brembo calipers, RB rotors, one of their street pads, and stainless brake lines. That will give you terrific stopping power on the street, improves acceleration, stopping and cornering, and they look great on the car.
They're not cheap but they cover several areas of improvement in performance which 3rd-party cast-iron rotors that are just drilled do not.
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