irpq11, L99 Dyno results.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by DanD

heres mine with 110-120 miles on it 100% stock AFR is super steady

Thanx for posting.

So Your HP is right there with my best pull (within 2) But you show a steady mix.

Note; this is up north.

[Tillman Speed]

My god someone "squished" the air fuel chart on that last dynojet post. You sure can barely tell whether it's more linear or not.

And Dan, air fuel is flat on yours because it's scaled 0-50.... it squished it down also.

Granted, both are probably linear even when scaled so that you actually can see. I'm just bustin balls!

Has anyone considered the fact that this could have been a downshift? Not running in the 1:1 ratio ought to skew the numbers a little bit, and do some funky things air/fuel wise.... this is almost identical to what happened to some of the more "beginner" custom tuning dealers with the Mustang 5r55 before someone explained how to lock the cars in gear.

I think that it's been said by quite a few professionals in this thread. Put the car on another dyno. I'd be willing to bet your results look normal. Make sure the car has fans on it, run it in the proper gear. Give the car cool-down time, too. Try to run it around 175-185 degrees. The lower the IAT's, the better. Not low enough IAT's where it will skew the results, but keep them out of the range that would pull timing. If the pull seems to short, or too long... have him datalog, too so that he can ensure you're actually in the correct gear.

Tell your tuner to take your printout, and add another graph with "Gear Ratio" which is essentially RPM/MPH.... I'd be also willing to bet it wasn't run in the correct gear.

That would knock the numbers down, and then with Standard Correction (STD) it would bring them back up to the point where they just seem a "little low".

I would take the car to a more experienced shop. James @ RWTD or Doug @ Bamachips might be of assistance. RWTD is in Mobile. Tell him Chris Rose from Tillman Speed sent you down.

[DanD]

that's why it shows min and max afr... lol.. 11.2 minimum but it was a steady 11.5's I watched the dyno #'s.

mine ran pretty good stock. I will have new #'s in a week with the mods.

[duder4thgen]

So people are thinking its a problem with the air filter making it run so rich and slow.. makes me think. Anyone here remember hearing about how some 4th gens would slip through qc with plastic wrapping between the condensor and radiator, and then people had a hell of a time figuring out why they were overheating?

I'd laugh my ass off if it were as simple as some plastic or trash in the plumbing before the airbox restricting flow.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Tillman Speed

My god someone "squished" the air fuel chart on that last dynojet post. You sure can barely tell whether it's more linear or not.

And Dan, air fuel is flat on yours because it's scaled 0-50.... it squished it down also.

Granted, both are probably linear even when scaled so that you actually can see. I'm just bustin balls!

Has anyone considered the fact that this could have been a downshift? Not running in the 1:1 ratio ought to skew the numbers a little bit, and do some funky things air/fuel wise.... this is almost identical to what happened to some of the more "beginner" custom tuning dealers with the Mustang 5r55 before someone explained how to lock the cars in gear.

I think that it's been said by quite a few professionals in this thread. Put the car on another dyno. I'd be willing to bet your results look normal. Make sure the car has fans on it, run it in the proper gear. Give the car cool-down time, too. Try to run it around 175-185 degrees. The lower the IAT's, the better. Not low enough IAT's where it will skew the results, but keep them out of the range that would pull timing. If the pull seems to short, or too long... have him datalog, too so that he can ensure you're actually in the correct gear.

Tell your tuner to take your printout, and add another graph with "Gear Ratio" which is essentially RPM/MPH.... I'd be also willing to bet it wasn't run in the correct gear.

That would knock the numbers down, and then with Standard Correction (STD) it would bring them back up to the point where they just seem a "little low".

I would take the car to a more experienced shop. James @ RWTD or Doug @ Bamachips might be of assistance. RWTD is in Mobile. Tell him Chris Rose from Tillman Speed sent you down.

I'd give anything to get in touch with that freakin' guy. Talking bout RWTD. Call BOTH numbers, not even a machine.

[Tillman Speed]

Send me a PM with your contact info and I'll have him contact you.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Tillman Speed

Send me a PM with your contact info and I'll have him contact you.

[08z51c6]

Originally Posted by Tillman Speed

My god someone "squished" the air fuel chart on that last dynojet post. You sure can barely tell whether it's more linear or not.

And Dan, air fuel is flat on yours because it's scaled 0-50.... it squished it down also.

Granted, both are probably linear even when scaled so that you actually can see. I'm just bustin balls!

Has anyone considered the fact that this could have been a downshift? Not running in the 1:1 ratio ought to skew the numbers a little bit, and do some funky things air/fuel wise.... this is almost identical to what happened to some of the more "beginner" custom tuning dealers with the Mustang 5r55 before someone explained how to lock the cars in gear.

I think that it's been said by quite a few professionals in this thread. Put the car on another dyno. I'd be willing to bet your results look normal. Make sure the car has fans on it, run it in the proper gear. Give the car cool-down time, too. Try to run it around 175-185 degrees. The lower the IAT's, the better. Not low enough IAT's where it will skew the results, but keep them out of the range that would pull timing. If the pull seems to short, or too long... have him datalog, too so that he can ensure you're actually in the correct gear.

Tell your tuner to take your printout, and add another graph with "Gear Ratio" which is essentially RPM/MPH.... I'd be also willing to bet it wasn't run in the correct gear.

That would knock the numbers down, and then with Standard Correction (STD) it would bring them back up to the point where they just seem a "little low".

I would take the car to a more experienced shop. James @ RWTD or Doug @ Bamachips might be of assistance. RWTD is in Mobile. Tell him Chris Rose from Tillman Speed sent you down.

Tillman is in the house!!! Hey guys!!!


If you want tuning done or need advice, here is where you want to take your car. They do outstanding work with Mustangs and have quite a reputation over on TheMustangSource.com. I'm sure they are just as skilled with the Camaro.

Hey Chris, you guys tune Vette's ???

[rpepka]

After having my car for 10 days GM says there is nothing wrong with my car. My service writer said the car is very slow, the tech that worked on it says the car is slow, BUT GM says the car is running 0 to 60 in 5.5 seconds and funny the best I could get is 5.87 cheating a little (starting the stop watch after I punched it).

This is really an outrage I have had GM cars all my life which the last one was a 2005 GTO which was much MUCH faster. The car before that was a 2003 ZO6. I don’t know what to do next. I did not have time to pick up the car today. My service writer says I still have an open case number and I can call GM on Monday. She also said that several other dealers are calling in with the same problem but it does not seem like they want to do anything about it.

I am looking for feedback and ideas on what to do next.

[SicSix6]

1st of all, the car is stupid rich . Any time it dips to below 10:1 that should trigger an alarm. It even starts pig rich. and dumps major amounts of fuel. There could be other factors causing this. But I would fault the tune. Also the waviness of the curves even on a dyno jet could indicate possible timing and or fuel related issues.

[rpepka]

Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D

Ok I ordered one for the hell of it. I am getting so pissed off and if this fixes the issue I will be happy. Should have it tommorrow.

What did you order?

[Scott@Bjorn3D]

K&N replacement filter for the factory filter. Will know if it helps tommorrow.

[DanD]

Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D

K&N replacement filter for the factory filter. Will know if it helps tommorrow.

I would assume even if it helped, would not fix any funky fuel issues... if that's what is actually wrong. WOT may be the only way to tell if it helped on the top end power.

[Roger Ramjet]

I always take my own weather station to a dyno session, ask for uncorrected numbers, then apply the SAE correction factor myself.

These numbers don't match: 95.36F, 30.36 InHg, 43%RH produce a STD Cf of 1.0427 not the 1.03 as shown. Now if we assume that a 1.03 Cf was used the measured number would have been 304.31 HP.

Applying the SAE Cf gives 305.5 HP - very poor!

Although the temperature was high this day so is the barometric pressure. The STD Cf would give an overly high HP number but the SAE Cf is still believable.