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Old 08-13-2013, 06:41 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@Livernois View Post

When you get the rotating assembly apart send me pics of everything so we can look it all over.
Ok. Will do. In the meantime I"m going to bore the cylinders myself. I have a dremell tool with a sanding thingy.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:46 PM   #114
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PQ, you cant really do it yourself bud, I mean you can BUT a machine shop needs to check the bores and correctly measure them. I too wish it was that easy but to do it right, its really a machine shop's job. They also need to clean all the oil and coolant galleys too. Just saying.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:46 PM   #115
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Got it.

Vengeance did the cam and tune.

Livernois are my guys at this point whatever I decide. I might just disassemble it and order the stroker kit. The stock crank is good for I think 900 HP iirc. Forged stroker kit and a new valv train with worked heads might be the ticket. I've heard tale that the Maggie with a 419 might be too slow. I'll list my options soon.

I have 3 options at this point. Maybe 4.
I would never put a Maggie on top of a 419 unless I wanted to go slower. Ted offered me his built 416 and I declined. We are going with a stock cubed ERL Superdeck Block. We'll bump the compression for more power but I would never go to a bigger cubed motor with the Maggie.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:59 PM   #116
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PQ, you cant really do it yourself bud, I mean you can BUT a machine shop needs to check the bores and correctly measure them. I too wish it was that easy but to do it right, its really a machine shop's job. They also need to clean all the oil and coolant galleys too. Just saying.
haha, I was joking about the dremmell thing.

I suppose I can have it done here.

What I need to do is price the cost of the forged stroker kit, the Cam and lifters, springs and such, and what someone would charge me to bore and do the block and see how much I'd save that way. Plus the head work if any.

So, Chris, what do you think?

Sure, I won't be a solid as ordering the Pro Series long block 419 but I could get something done much sooner.

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Originally Posted by Supercharged SS View Post
I would never put a Maggie on top of a 419 unless I wanted to go slower. Ted offered me his built 416 and I declined. We are going with a stock cubed ERL Superdeck Block. We'll bump the compression for more power but I would never go to a bigger cubed motor with the Maggie.
You were the tale I was talking about. lol
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:02 PM   #117
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haha, I was joking about the dremmell thing.

I suppose I can have it done here.

What I need to do is price the cost of the forged stroker kit, the Cam and lifters, springs and such, and what someone would charge me to bore and do the block and see how much I'd save that way. Plus the head work if any.

So, Chris, what do you think?

Sure, I won't be a solid as ordering the Pro Series long block 419 but I could get something done much sooner.

You were the tale I was talking about. lol
Doh!!! Maybe it'll work out but I don't want to try!!
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:07 PM   #118
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If I do something temporary it will need to either be throw it back together the way it is with a new cam and hope it lasts long enough. Or at least be cost effective enough to do while I wait for funds.

If I'm going to have the block done I might as well rebuild it to last.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:10 PM   #119
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Doh!!! Maybe it'll work out but I don't want to try!!
Well you use spray as well. So you think that the 2300 maggie is slower on a 419 than on a 376 without spray even if the boost levels are the same? Or are you saying that you can't get the boost up with the maggie on the bigger bore?
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:11 PM   #120
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If I do something temporary it will need to either be throw it back together the way it is with a new cam and hope it lasts long enough. Or at least be cost effective enough to do while I wait for funds.

If I'm going to have the block done I might as well rebuild it to last.
On the engine that I just broke all we did was forged rods and pistons. Honed the block but that was it. Still had the stock main caps, stock heads, head bolts , etc. It took a ton of abuse and if it wasn't for a freak incident I'd still be running it. You don't have to give your left nut to build something very good.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:16 PM   #121
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Well you use spray as well. So you think that the 2300 maggie is slower on a 419 than on a 376 without spray even if the boost levels are the same? Or are you saying that you can't get the boost up with the maggie on the bigger bore?
I would never be able to get 16 psi out of a 419. Can't spin the blower fast enough with that many cubes and if you could all you would produce is crazy heat.

The more cubes the faster the blower has to spin to produce equal boost as on a 376.

You'll get more HP bc of the cubes but it doesn't seem to translate on the track.

Your last statement is correct. If you want big boost you'll push the blower out of its efficiency zone and it'll be counter productive.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:25 PM   #122
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I would never be able to get 16 psi out of a 419. Can't spin the blower fast enough with that many cubes and if you could all you would produce is crazy heat.

The more cubes the faster the blower has to spin to produce equal boost as on a 376.

You'll get more HP bc of the cubes but it doesn't seem to translate on the track.

Your last statement is correct. If you want big boost you'll push the blower out of its efficiency zone and it'll be counter productive.
Oh shit. I did not know you were at 16psi.

Well no wonder.

I do not have the supporting mods (including tranny) to run 9s. If I could get just into the 10s I'd be perfectly happy. I think the Maggie could push 10-12 psi into the 419 with it stroked down to say 10.2-1 compression?

It would be super safe for the build I'd think and should get me 10s.

Or no?
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:33 PM   #123
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Oh shit. I did not know you were at 16psi.

Well no wonder.

I do not have the supporting mods (including tranny) to run 9s. If I could get just into the 10s I'd be perfectly happy. I think the Maggie could push 10-12 psi into the 419 with it stroked down to say 10.2-1 compression?

It would be super safe for the build I'd think and should get me 10s.

Or no?
To get 10-12 psi on a 419 you'll be spinning the blower as fast as me. I'm sure someone can get you the exact numbers but you be spinning it fast.

I went 10.99 at 10 psi with just headers and a cold air. If I were you I'd spend my money on good, forged 376 parts and just bump the boost up.

Remember, once you start spinning the blower faster you'll need at min and 8 rib set up. Another $1500.

Use the is rear cogs with a 3.6 pulley and a good cam, you'll make a safe 600 rwhp, safe for your trans and drivetrain, and have a 10 second car without breaking the bank.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:33 PM   #124
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Oh shit. I did not know you were at 16psi.

Well no wonder.

I do not have the supporting mods (including tranny) to run 9s. If I could get just into the 10s I'd be perfectly happy. I think the Maggie could push 10-12 psi into the 419 with it stroked down to say 10.2-1 compression?

It would be super safe for the build I'd think and should get me 10s.

Or no?
16 psi with a 125 shot. Should go fast if it doesn't break again.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:38 PM   #125
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To get 10-12 psi on a 419 you'll be spinning the blower as fast as me. I'm sure someone can get you the exact numbers but you be spinning it fast.

I went 10.99 at 10 psi with just headers and a cold air. If I were you I'd spend my money on good, forged 376 parts and just bump the boost up.

Remember, once you start spinning the blower faster you'll need at min and 8 rib set up. Another $1500.

Use the is rear cogs with a 3.6 pulley and a good cam, you'll make a safe 600 rwhp, safe for your trans and drivetrain, and have a 10 second car without breaking the bank.
More food for thought. Thank you.

I'll hit up Chris and see what he thinks.

10 psi even with a rear cog drive required an 8 rib set? I thought a JRE tensioner (which I have) and a 3.2 would get that?
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:46 PM   #126
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More food for thought. Thank you.

I'll hit up Chris and see what he thinks.

10 psi even with a rear cog drive required an 8 rib set? I thought a JRE tensioner (which I have) and a 3.2 would get that?
The key to keeping good, consistent boost is belt wrap. The bigger the front pulley the better the wrap. So keeping the front pulley as big as possible you can use the rear od cogs to make your boost and eliminate bent slip. For making 10 psi I would do the cogs with a 3.6. A 3.2 on the front is very small and doesn't offer good belt wrap.

Here's an example. With a 3.2 my car made 18 psi but it wasn't consistent due to slippage.

With a 3.4 the boost fell to 16psi but the car was faster on the track.

I made a few passes with each the same day at the track.

A 3.2 6 rib pulley is as good as a kick in the nuts.

Also, at 10 psi you'll start, it's not bad at this point, to see slippage on the rear pulleys.
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