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Old 08-27-2013, 11:03 PM   #16913
Ron_Robinson1


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcox2010 View Post
i just want the rought idle sound i on the edge about it

It's the only sound .

Just remember NA cams sound better

But if FI is ever in a future plan of yours down the road, then really plan your cam wisely. Don't be like me and do it twice.
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2017 ZL1 A10: Previously FBO 756/761 (9.6 @ 143 1/4)
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SOLD-2011 SS M6: Blower, Cam, Alky, LTs.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:06 PM   #16914
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ZL1 rockers and splitter should be in Friday. Can't wait for these body mods to get installed. I will be calling my main tech JoeBot Automotives for assistance.

Joe thanks again. Cars running great, no codes popped
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2017 ZL1 A10: 8.84 @ 156 PB
2017 ZL1 A10: Previously FBO 756/761 (9.6 @ 143 1/4)
SOLD-2013 ZL1 M6:BTR,LTs,IDs,ATI,RotoFab10.84@129
SOLD-2011 SS M6: Blower, Cam, Alky, LTs.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:04 AM   #16915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcox2010 View Post
i just want the rought idle sound i on the edge about it
Just throw some 87 octane in it and you'll be good to go with the rough idle
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:12 AM   #16916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcox2010 View Post
thinking about getting a cam for the green machine but not sure if i should ??? dont want engine problems
Me too! Same concern about problems. Do a lot of research and get one spec'd for your driving style. Stick with a reputable shop with a good reputation!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joebot8484 View Post
Keith, the only problem you'll have with a cam is the endless peragrin you'll experience! Just spec it out properly, upgrade the valvetrain add a tune .
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:48 AM   #16917
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To this point with my car I have never had any problem with a cam or a valve train.

I had my first cam install at just over 3000 miles on the car. The second came at 16000. I beat the piss out of my car daily, booSSted and JoeBot can tell you as well. Out of any problems I have had with my car over the last two years none of them were cam or valve train related. That mod wouldn't worry me.

But like I said before if you want FI down the road save your money for that first, or purschase a rough Idle FI cam like I have, but it won't sound as good as a NA cam with like a 111 LSA. Your talking like 2200-2700$ for a cam install and tune. That's almost half a blower.
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2017 ZL1 A10: 8.84 @ 156 PB
2017 ZL1 A10: Previously FBO 756/761 (9.6 @ 143 1/4)
SOLD-2013 ZL1 M6:BTR,LTs,IDs,ATI,RotoFab10.84@129
SOLD-2011 SS M6: Blower, Cam, Alky, LTs.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:49 AM   #16918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinman View Post
Just throw some 87 octane in it and you'll be good to go with the rough idle


Or do this FTW.. Haha doesn't get any rougher than that.
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2017 ZL1 A10: 8.84 @ 156 PB
2017 ZL1 A10: Previously FBO 756/761 (9.6 @ 143 1/4)
SOLD-2013 ZL1 M6:BTR,LTs,IDs,ATI,RotoFab10.84@129
SOLD-2011 SS M6: Blower, Cam, Alky, LTs.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:43 AM   #16919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron_Robinson1 View Post
ZL1 rockers and splitter should be in Friday. Can't wait for these body mods to get installed. I will be calling my main tech JoeBot Automotives for assistance.

Joe thanks again. Cars running great, no codes popped
Can't wait to install! these are going to set your ride off to the next level. And I feel better now that your solenoid voltage is no longer low haha.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:31 AM   #16920
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Synergy Green for sale in Chittenango. Don't know the model.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:59 AM   #16921
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Spike states he and a couple others will be at the Seneca Rest Area about 6:00AM - 6:15AM. That is where I will connect up. Thanks!
Cool. You know spike and his pee brakes!!!!
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:11 PM   #16922
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listen to this.

[QUOTE=nohemihere;6955342]Cool. You know spike and his pee brakes!!!! [/QUOTE

I have never peed on my brakes or anyone elses. So you just better keep checking your.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:25 PM   #16923
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[QUOTE=spike III;6955380]
Quote:
Originally Posted by nohemihere View Post
Cool. You know spike and his pee brakes!!!! [/QUOTE

I have never peed on my brakes or anyone elses. So you just better keep checking your.
Good one Spike!
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:49 PM   #16924
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[QUOTE=spike III;6955380]
Quote:
Originally Posted by nohemihere View Post
Cool. You know spike and his pee brakes!!!! [/QUOTE

I have never peed on my brakes or anyone elses. So you just better keep checking your.
Oops sorry spike !! That was Nate who was peeing while driving (swerving) up to Canada
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:55 PM   #16925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcox2010 View Post
thinking about getting a cam for the green machine but not sure if i should ??? dont want engine problems
Do your homework. Overcamming the car will make it miserable to drive on the street. You don't want to end up with a cam that the powerband doesn't start until 3500 or 4000 rpm if all you're going to do is drive the car on the street. Google Comp Cams and use the resources on their web site. If you're not sure call their toll free number and ask questions. My last several race cams have been custom ground by Comp and they've gotten everything right that I've asked for. If you're having a shop do the work and they're recommending a cam still get the Comp recommendation and compare the two. If unsure ASK QUESTIONS! Don't settle and end up unhappy. Remember a cam change also means lifters, valve springs, spring retainers, locks and shims and may require different length pushrods and a rocker arm change. While you're disassembled that far think about upgrading the timing chain and Oil Pump also.
A good book to learn a lot about this is published by Motorbooks called "How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines". It's a cheap $25.00 to spend to understand what needs to be done if you don't already know.
Sorry for the run on but I'd prefer to see you get what you want the first time.
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:30 PM   #16926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by td195f View Post
Do your homework. Overcamming the car will make it miserable to drive on the street. You don't want to end up with a cam that the powerband doesn't start until 3500 or 4000 rpm if all you're going to do is drive the car on the street. Google Comp Cams and use the resources on their web site. If you're not sure call their toll free number and ask questions. My last several race cams have been custom ground by Comp and they've gotten everything right that I've asked for. If you're having a shop do the work and they're recommending a cam still get the Comp recommendation and compare the two. If unsure ASK QUESTIONS! Don't settle and end up unhappy. Remember a cam change also means lifters, valve springs, spring retainers, locks and shims and may require different length pushrods and a rocker arm change. While you're disassembled that far think about upgrading the timing chain and Oil Pump also.
A good book to learn a lot about this is published by Motorbooks called "How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines". It's a cheap $25.00 to spend to understand what needs to be done if you don't already know.
Sorry for the run on but I'd prefer to see you get what you want the first time.

Knowledge has been spoken, Out of most people on the Camaro5 website,
when you talk HP I will always listen. Your probably the most serious drag racer that we have in our UpstateC5 club.
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2017 ZL1 A10: 8.84 @ 156 PB
2017 ZL1 A10: Previously FBO 756/761 (9.6 @ 143 1/4)
SOLD-2013 ZL1 M6:BTR,LTs,IDs,ATI,RotoFab10.84@129
SOLD-2011 SS M6: Blower, Cam, Alky, LTs.

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