What Did You Do To Your Camaro Today?

[Squillo]

Originally Posted by Dfault

How do you get the tail light bezzells off? I was just fooling with mine for a bit and couldn't get the bottom clips to come off. I gave up, I'd like to paint mine black too...so any help would be great!

Just use a flat bar or a screwdriver with a cloth wrapped around it and pry slowly around until the clips pop out. It gets easier to remove them after the first time. Good luck.

[djcfuzz]

[Mean Green Z28]

Originally Posted by mat300z

Just curious...but why would you want to use E85?

He can run more boost and timing by going E85 cos of the higher octane rating

[CRTZL1]

Originally Posted by Dfault

How do you get the tail light bezzells off? I was just fooling with mine for a bit and couldn't get the bottom clips to come off. I gave up, I'd like to paint mine black too...so any help would be great!

Dude do yourself a favor go down to harbor freight and get yourself a 5 piece plastic pry tool set. The screw driver method will scratch it up and using a cloth around the screw driver is annoying. The pry tools make taking off the bezels easy easy. Start at the top and work your way around prying with strength but not being forceful and they'll pop right out.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4

[JCunningham]

Originally Posted by SGG

Ok, one last chance to try to explain this. The Magnuson MP2300 TVS Supercharger claims to

"deliver power gains of approximately 120 horsepower and 120 foot-pounds of torque at the rear wheels @ 6 psi."

So I guess the question is that what is the stock RWHP of the L99. Most of what I read is that there is anywhere between a 15 and 20 percent loss in horsepower with an automatic transmission. So, lets see what those values are.

15% = 340
16% = 336
17% = 332
18% = 328
19% = 324
20% = 320

Let's take the average of those numbers and use 330 as our RWHP number for the L99.

Magnuson already stated that the "This kit delivers power gains of approximately 120 horsepower and 120 foot-pounds of torque at the rear wheels @ 6 psi." so I should be expecting a total RWHP of

330 + 120 = 450

My Dyno read 441.2 at 6089 RPM and 506 Ft Pounds of Torque at 3107 RPM.

So my Crank Horsepower can be estimated also

15% = 518
16% = 525
17% = 531
18% = 537
19% = 544
20% = 551

For an average of 534

I think most people overestimate their horsepower and I do not think that a Tune, CAI and Cat Back is going to gain 73 horsepower, but I could be wrong.

From Jannetty Racing...

Originally Posted by apeko
I am curious on how much hp you get from a can tune and how much from a custom tune on a L99.
If you car is all Stock about the same 5-10 RWHP Truthfully everyone seems to advertise higher than that, it is all marketing.

magnuson is full of shit on there numbers. They claim the same 120hp /tq @6psi On my 6.2l Silverado. with ARH lt headers @8psi and a dyno tune by new era I barely made 120 extra hp at the wheels. with their garbage canned tune it was probably more like 50hp more @ rear wheels with stock truck. There tune is pig rich and has almost the same timing as stock. They also send you injectors smaller than the stock flex fuel injectors on the truck pink bosh. 43lb @58psi. the stock ones are 50lb @58psi and were at 98% at 8psi boost

[JCunningham]

I washed it. hopefully it will be clean for a day.

[t&t moyer]

Not today but while home on vacation I:

Installed Pedders rear sway-bar, Granatelli brake rotors, Hawk pads, cat-less mid-pipes, replaced one o2 sensor, went back to New Era for a retune, re-installed the fuse for the NPP exhaust then pulled it again, put a black blow-tie on the rear panel, replaced the Emblem Pros fenders letters with OEM fender letters, removed the hash stripes from the fender, did the first oil change, installed a rear seat delete kit then removed it after two weeks putting the seats back in, mounted a fire extinguisher, and washed it waaaaay to many times in a three week period.

That's it

[tohper]

Installed new side markers

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[southerncarparts]

Originally Posted by Batmaro

Installed my heritage grill.

Very nice!

[PalmerGA]

Washed and waxed... still fighting off the Love Bugs. C'monnnnnnnnn Winter!

[montreal2010yellow]

Originally Posted by Mean Green Z28

He can run more boost and timing by going E85 cos of the higher octane rating

Ethanol does'nt protect the engine internals against rust.
Reducing the Damage of Ethanol Fuel
by Philip L. Goldsborough master technician and co-owner of Goldsborough’s Marine, Crisfield, MD
Boaters can help prevent the damaging effects of ethanol fuel by following several simple
guidelines.
1)
Use the fuel within three months of purchase.
Water can contaminate ethanol fuel, reaching a critical stage after about three
months, under some conditions. This phenomenon is known as phase separation.
The time can vary, depending on weather, mixture ratios, placement of tanks and
solvents present in the fuel. Ethanol, an alcohol that is derived primarily from
corn, absorbs moisture. Moisture promotes rust and reduces the fuel efficiency of
an engine. The irony here is that the federal government mandated the use of
ethanol fuel to reduce consumption of oil-based gasoline.
Boaters are familiar with the ravaging effect of electrolysis—the passage of ions
in water. The application of zinc disks to props, rudders, stern drives, and drive
shafts helps protect against electrolysis. Ethanol fuel, when contaminated with
water, fosters electrolysis in fuel systems where electric pumps are running
submersed in gasoline. Gasoline will not conduct electricity, but mixed with
water it forms a path across terminals which in turn eats away at internal wires
and connectors. Ethanol based fuels aka oxygenated fuel contain extra amounts
of oxygen to meet new air quality standards and will break down faster than fuel
in the past.
2)
Change/clean fuel filters frequently.
Solvents in ethanol fuel tend to attack fiberglass, plastic, and rubber. The
resulting tar-like residues can clog small metal fuel filters associated with fuel
pumps and carburetors and can greatly reduce the efficiency of even large, paper
filters that serve as the first line of defense right at the tank. Dirty filters also
increase the chance of residues gumming up fuel pumps and carburetors, which
in turn leads to a lean running condition, possibly resulting in engine damage.
3)
Add fuel stabilizers.
The market is replete with stabilizers for ethanol fuels. The purpose of most
additives is to seal the surface of the fuel and resist evaporation of the lighter
components and prevent surface contact with the atmosphere. Additives are a
temporary fix, as time will still cause the fuel to go down hill. Stabilizers will
only extend the life of fuel, but not prevent it from breaking down over time.
Periodically inspect/replace fuel lines.
Again, solvents are the culprits. They compromise the integrity of fuel lines,
restricting flow, and they decompose fuel tank pickup tubes, leading to loss of
fuel supply to the engine. New fuel lines resistant to deterioration are available
from Mercury Marine, marked “USCG Type B1-15-SAE J1527 EPA
Compliant.” The line is gray to resist damage from sunlight. A good rule of
thumb: If a fuel line leaves residue on your hands, change the line.
4)
Replacing fuel tanks.
Metal tanks and ethanol-safe plastic eliminate a major source of tar-like residues.
5)
Write to your local, state, and national representatives.
Is economy of fuel use in marine engines worth the damage associated with
ethanol fuel? A strong argument can be presented that repair and replacement of
damaged parts actually require, in the long run, consumption of more energy than
is saved.
Ethanol fuel, blended at a 9-to-1 ratio, that is, 10 percent and therefore commonly known
as E-10, dates to the energy crisis of the late 1970s and early ’80s, when international
tensions restricted oil supply. Indications are that the federal government will order the
use of higher ethanol percentages in fuel for marine and vehicle engines, exacerbating an
already bad situation.
A common fuel for marine engines is an 87-octane, ethanol-gasoline blend.
Recommended for all modern marine engines, fresh 87-octane burns clean and generates
the horsepower set by the engine manufacturer. Ethanol fuel also is available in 89 octane
and 93 octane. The higher octane is necessary only if specified by the engine
manufacturer. Octane, a rating of resistance to fuel knock, appears to have no affect on
fuel deterioration during storage.
Boaters frequently talk of siphoning out old ethanol fuel and disposing of it. That’s
wasteful. It’s even silly. Boaters should “dispose” of the old fuel by firing up the engines
and finding the spot where stripers are hitting, or packing a sandwich and soda for lunch
among the coves, or cruising in search of the brown pelican. So, what are you waiting
for? Go boating before that fuel goes bad.
Phil Goldsborough
Goldsborough’s Marine, Inc. “Where happiness is just a boat ride away”
E-mail: merc71@verizon.net
You can contact the writer at Goldsborough’s Marine, 709 West Main St. Crisfield, MD 21817, telephone 410-968-0852.

[RayTheRat]

Originally Posted by SSRS55

Dude do yourself a favor go down to harbor freight and get yourself a 5 piece plastic pry tool set. The screw driver method will scratch it up and using a cloth around the screw driver is annoying. The pry tools make taking off the bezels easy easy. Start at the top and work your way around prying with strength but not being forceful and they'll pop right out.

Yup. What he said. Lift the inner part of the "scrivet" so that it no longer spreads the bottom/outer part and then lift the whole thing out. Lather, rinse, repeat 5 more times so ya get the drainage covers off. Then the bezels come off real easy.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

[RayTheRat]

Finally got around to installing the PCV catch can.

Next up. Hell, I dunno what's next. I'll think of something.

[mat300z]

Took hockey stripes off and put on new factory reproduction zl1 rims