Clutch Pedal stuck to the floor?

[caverman]

Took my car to the drag strip last night and for the first time ever my clutch pedal stuck to the floor after take off. I went to try to go to second gear and it wouldn't go. Tried a couple times (no grinding just wouldn't go) and then I noticed/felt the pedal was on the floor. I think I pushed on it or something and then it came back up. Seemed like it worked normal after that but when I got back to the pits I had a super burned clutch smell. That was it for the night for me even thought that was my first run of the night.

I've race my car down the track probably 40 -50 times and have never had this happen. I also have a separate clutch fluid reservoir that I keep fairly clean although I'll say that I didn't change the fluid prior to this trip to the track. The fluid was a light golden brown so I don't think it was really dirty enough to make it stick.

Anyone have a suggestion as to why this might have happened and how to prevent it again?

How about any ideas on why my clutch would've been burnt so bad and/or how bad you might think it hurt the clutch/flywheel?

I'll say that on the drive home it drove just fine but I could still slightly smell the clutch even though I let it sit for a good 1.5 - 2 hours before I drove home.

[The Stig]

Do you have a separate clutch fluid reservoir?

[caverman]

Yes, and have for quite some time. Like I mentioned in my first post I didn't change the fluid before I went this time. I usually do but this was a last minute decision to go. Still I looked at it in the pits and the there was plenty of fluid and it was a light golden brown. I don't think it's dirty enough to cause the pedal to stick to the floor.

[strych9]

Get the IDEALG clutch master cylinder. That seems to cure these issues. At the risk of countering many misinformed souls, the separate master cylinder does little more than preserving your fluid condition. Don't misunderstand; that's a very good feature, but I don't believe it's the cause for the pedal-stick issue.

[SNSSTR]

Originally Posted by strych9

Get the IDEALG clutch master cylinder. That seems to cure these issues. At the risk of countering many misinformed souls, the separate master cylinder does little more than preserving your fluid condition. Don't misunderstand; that's a very good feature, but I don't believe it's the cause for the pedal-stick issue.

This.

OR

With those 3.91's you have, it may be time to go to a clutch that requires less clamping load. Like the McLeod RXT, Mantic ER2, or Street Slayer.

[CyberPredator]

3.91 should be easier on the clutch not harder. Increased tq multiplication after the clutch. Less effort to do the same work....just sayin. But I agree on the Master cylinder upgrade. Your clutch is probably just worn to the point where it's heating faster and making the "pedal stick" pronounced. 3 year old car with the stock clutch and 50 track passes. Might just be time to start looking at another clutch. If you are just bolt on you can probably go cheap and just get another stock clutch. But no matter what you do I would definitely get the ideal G master cylinder

[caverman]

Anyone know what the round about costs are on a stock clutch vs aftermarket? If I remember I once looked at some aftermarkets and they were in the $800-$1k range.

What about the flywheel. I guess I could just have it turned?

I looked at the IDEAL master cylinder and I remember thinking about it but the bleeding process was my concern. I know that if I where to ever have to drop my trans I was going to look at installing a remote bleeder.

[bct10985]

You can get a mantic er2 for around $750.

[caverman]

How good are the Mantic ER2? They looked to be a much better price than the Street Slayer, LS9, or McLeod.

Grant it the ER2 looks to be a single disc where most of the others are twin but I'm not sure I really need a twin disc. I doubt I would ever see even 500 rwhp. Heck, I may never see anything more than the 415 rwhp I have now.

[fldrummer]

40-50 passes before this finally happened to you? Shoot, mine stuck to the floor the very first (and only) time I went to the track, right after I got cammed! LOL ... That was 35K miles ago and, even after 6K with the Maggie, it's still holding up. It will still stick if I push it hard (despite having separated the reservoir and using Motul DOT4 fluid), but I plan on upgrading next year.

[redirish]

Originally Posted by caverman

Yes, and have for quite some time. Like I mentioned in my first post I didn't change the fluid before I went this time. I usually do but this was a last minute decision to go. Still I looked at it in the pits and the there was plenty of fluid and it was a light golden brown. I don't think it's dirty enough to cause the pedal to stick to the floor.

Most cost effective option for sure!

[H-E]

Originally Posted by caverman

How good are the Mantic ER2? They looked to be a much better price than the Street Slayer, LS9, or McLeod.

Grant it the ER2 looks to be a single disc where most of the others are twin but I'm not sure I really need a twin disc. I doubt I would ever see even 500 rwhp. Heck, I may never see anything more than the 415 rwhp I have now.

The reason we do not do a twin for the camaro is that with a single u must increase the clamp load on the pp.This is not a good idea on the new camaro .A twin will drive better than a single and it will also last longer than a single.

[rusn63@yahoo.com]

I had same problem at drag strip , I found out clutch line has 2 check valves in. I replaced my line with a braided line andwith heat wrap as I understand heat off the headers doesn,t help. My clutch has not been any trouble since and the pedal has a better feel on engagement and is smoother. Hope this helps.

[caverman]

Would the braided clutch line really help with the pedal going to the floor?


Here is what I'm thinking I might do over the winter season. IDEALG master cylinder, Lingenfelter clutch spring, maybe a braided clutch hose, and the line lock I've had sitting on the shelf for about a year.

I'll start putting aside the money for a clutch but wait until I kill my stock clutch. $1,500 just for parts is a little hard to swallow for now.