V8 bolt on help desk! Now available!!

[Denis]

Originally Posted by litle88

Congrats to Mark.

Damn....219?!? That's nuts.

[litle88]

Man if I was into autoxing I'd try to invest in some titanium valves and definitely getting some titanium retainers to keep it a very light valve train.

Definitely no fast ramp rates, no high lifts. Keeping the lift at around .600
Still a good split and a tight LSA to bring the power in quicker, should I dare say a 110/112LSA?
That's about as much as I'd know about a autox cam for me at least.

[Synner]

Originally Posted by ssmike

yea Tim would know better than me, I'm just getting into it! When I was at Gingerman I was coming out of turns in 3rd gear at around 3K. Autocross is mostly 2nd gear sometimes as low as 2500 rpm out of hairpins. I have 3.91 gears which helps and I would like to customize the cam so it works well with the gears on the track. I guess what I'm looking for is like I said, a broad curve but not JUST top end peak power. I know there are road course grinds out there so I'm curious about what makes a better road course grind over a drag strip grind. I'm also worried about valve train longevity and keeping maintenance to a minimum.

I got one from Brian Tooley, don't get an off the shelf anything. Lift around .6, HUC or similar lobes, tighter LSA, more duration. Autocross won't stress the valvetrain nearly as much as road course. Ls3 already has hollow valves. Titanium would let you get away with more lift but unless you get serious about squeezing every last ounce out of the engine its not worth the investment for the occasional track day of fun.

If/when the engine grenades I will get an ERL monster and probably LS7 heads. There is minimal benefit to expensive heads with an LS3 on the lower lift cams since the airflow increases a lot more at higher lift #'s that you'll never see with these cams intended for road racing.

[ssmike]

I don't think I'll need to invest in titanium valves or anything like that. I'll be doing occasional auto-x and HPDE road course stuff for fun! I understand ramp rates and lift but can someone explain for a newb what the LSA numbers are? Also, what supporting parts in the valve train? With .60 lift, which isn't radical, I would imagine new springs, retainers etc anyway? What is recommended?

[Synner]

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/1...t/viewall.html
LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE: This is the relationship between the centerlines of the intake and exhaust lobes. A 110-degree lobe separation angle means that the peak opening points of the intake and exhaust lobes are 110 degrees apart. This is ground into the cam and can't be changed without changing cams. Lobe separation angle is another way of expressing overlap, which is the term formerly used by cam manufacturers. Overlap is the amount of time that both valves are open in the same cylinder. When both valves are open at the same time, cylinder pressure drops. A cam with 106 degrees of lobe separation angle will have more overlap and a rougher idle than one with 112 degrees, but it'll usually make more midrange power.

Cam, springs, retainers, oil seals, trunion upgrade. I got a C5R timing chain and ATI damper too. External oil cooler would be a good investment if you do more road course stuff. Monitor engine/trans temps to decide if you need to upgrade any of those cooling systems. Otherwise spend money on brakes and suspension and learning how to drive it all.

[litle88]

Originally Posted by Synner

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/1...t/viewall.html
LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE: This is the relationship between the centerlines of the intake and exhaust lobes. A 110-degree lobe separation angle means that the peak opening points of the intake and exhaust lobes are 110 degrees apart. This is ground into the cam and can't be changed without changing cams. Lobe separation angle is another way of expressing overlap, which is the term formerly used by cam manufacturers. Overlap is the amount of time that both valves are open in the same cylinder. When both valves are open at the same time, cylinder pressure drops. A cam with 106 degrees of lobe separation angle will have more overlap and a rougher idle than one with 112 degrees, but it'll usually make more midrange power.

Cam, springs, retainers, oil seals, trunion upgrade. I got a C5R timing chain and ATI damper too. External oil cooler would be a good investment if you do more road course stuff. Monitor engine/trans temps to decide if you need to upgrade any of those cooling systems. Otherwise spend money on brakes and suspension and learning how to drive it all.

Definitely BTR. I'm sure he's done countless cams for that application.

[mp51998]

My neighbor, my wife and I all AutoX once a month for two days. We run the NF cam in all three cars. Usually once we shift into second we stay there except on the courses that have a little longer straights. Even in the 180's we stay in second. Plenty of torque. I've tried downshifting to first but it's a waste if time. None of us have titanium valves. It was overkill for us. I think my neighbor may have titanium retainers but that's it. We are all very happy with how it performs.

[ssmike]

Originally Posted by Synner

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/1...t/viewall.html
LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE: This is the relationship between the centerlines of the intake and exhaust lobes. A 110-degree lobe separation angle means that the peak opening points of the intake and exhaust lobes are 110 degrees apart. This is ground into the cam and can't be changed without changing cams. Lobe separation angle is another way of expressing overlap, which is the term formerly used by cam manufacturers. Overlap is the amount of time that both valves are open in the same cylinder. When both valves are open at the same time, cylinder pressure drops. A cam with 106 degrees of lobe separation angle will have more overlap and a rougher idle than one with 112 degrees, but it'll usually make more midrange power.

Cam, springs, retainers, oil seals, trunion upgrade. I got a C5R timing chain and ATI damper too. External oil cooler would be a good investment if you do more road course stuff. Monitor engine/trans temps to decide if you need to upgrade any of those cooling systems. Otherwise spend money on brakes and suspension and learning how to drive it all.

Thanks for the explanation! So when you see 100/112 does that mean intake/exhaust?

Originally Posted by litle88

Definitely BTR. I'm sure he's done countless cams for that application.

Who is BTR?

Originally Posted by mp51998

My neighbor, my wife and I all AutoX once a month for two days. We run the NF cam in all three cars. Usually once we shift into second we stay there except on the courses that have a little longer straights. Even in the 180's we stay in second. Plenty of torque. I've tried downshifting to first but it's a waste if time. None of us have titanium valves. It was overkill for us. I think my neighbor may have titanium retainers but that's it. We are all very happy with how it performs.

Good to know! Thanks! Yea, shifting down to first is hard to do! I tried it at the Camarocross at the fest and really blew my time! Kept in 2nd from then on!

[litle88]

Brian
Tooley
Racing

Sorry about that.

[litle88]

Originally Posted by mp51998

My neighbor, my wife and I all AutoX once a month for two days. We run the NF cam in all three cars. Usually once we shift into second we stay there except on the courses that have a little longer straights. Even in the 180's we stay in second. Plenty of torque. I've tried downshifting to first but it's a waste if time. None of us have titanium valves. It was overkill for us. I think my neighbor may have titanium retainers but that's it. We are all very happy with how it performs.

That's awesome and good to know, how many miles are on your setups?

Have you guys had a few of your springs tested?

[Synner]

LSA will be a single number as its the angle between the two lobe centerlines. 229/236 is the duration numbers which is what I think you're thinking of.

[litle88]

Originally Posted by Synner

Cam, springs, retainers, oil seals, trunion upgrade. I got a C5R timing chain and ATI damper too. External oil cooler would be a good investment if you do more road course stuff. Monitor engine/trans temps to decide if you need to upgrade any of those cooling systems. Otherwise spend money on brakes and suspension and learning how to drive it all.
[/COLOR][/LEFT]

YEEEEES

[ssmike]

Originally Posted by Synner

LSA will be a single number as its the angle between the two lobe centerlines. 229/236 is the duration numbers which is what I think you're thinking of.

Ok cool! So what litle meant was an LSA of around 110-112. So, for the cam I'm spec'ing the lift should be around .60, LSA around 110-112 what about duration numbers? Keep in mind that I would still like to have a nice idle lope!

[LS3 SS]

Originally Posted by ssmike

Ok cool! So what litle meant was an LSA of around 110-112. So, for the cam I'm spec'ing the lift should be around .60, LSA around 110-112 what about duration numbers? Keep in mind that I would still like to have a nice idle lope!

Mike I think you're missing a zero out of your lift numbers, lol. I'm not sure what intake exhaust duration numbers would be optimal for your HPDE, but if I were you, I would talk to "Orange Crush 1LE" about his cam. He had one spec'd out recently, and made 478rwhp, and he is an avid road course/HPDE driver.