Slipping clutch? Help! Lol - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Boosted Sprayed V6 · 01-11-2014, 11:41 AM

Hey everyone. so I'm back with yet another issue with my car. So I have a spec stage two clutch and aluminum flywheel in my car and lately when the car is cold the clutch engages super late and slips just a bit under moderate to heavy acceleration, at least that's how it feels. Now here is the strange part, once the car heats up it grabs much earlier in the pedal range and won't slip even under full boost and a little nitrous? The shop I have it at seems stumped, but wants to take the trans off and look at it, but I'm am worth of afraid they are just hunting around not really knowing what they are looking for? Their a great shop but I don't want to waste the money if I don't have to. Any ideas anyone?

Iam Broke · 01-11-2014, 12:00 PM

Sounds like there is still a bit of air in the slave cylinder at the clutch. Bleed, bleed, bleed. When I had the issue on a turbo LNF Cobalt SS it was air in the line and got worse with cold temps after putting in a SPEC Stage 2+ and a LW flywheel. Getting ALL the air out fixed it.

Boosted Sprayed V6 · 01-11-2014, 12:12 PM

Thanks! I had offered that explanation to the shop and the dismissed it as highly unlikely, I'll now demand that they bleed it. Or even try it myself. Any idea where the correct bleeder screws are and what I have to do to get to them?

Iam Broke · 01-11-2014, 02:14 PM

Not on yours, sorry. On the LNF setup it was on the top of the clutch housing where the hyd line enters it.

Have a helper apply pressure to the clutch pedal but not enough to engage it, loosen the bleeder as they push the pedal down & tighten the bleeder before they release it. Repeat as necessary. A line from the bleeder to a glass jar helps keep from making a mess and if you keep some fluid in the jar there is a less chance of getting air back in.

Since the bleeder isn't at the slave cyl it takes time for all the air to migrate up out of the slave near the bleeder or above to get it out of the line. You can put a vacuum bleeder on the clutch master cyl to help draw the air out but I never had much luck getting it all out that way.

Hope you get it, 99% sure that's it.

redredrage · 01-12-2014, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iam Broke

Sounds like there is still a bit of air in the slave cylinder at the clutch. Bleed, bleed, bleed. When I had the issue on a turbo LNF Cobalt SS it was air in the line and got worse with cold temps after putting in a SPEC Stage 2+ and a LW flywheel. Getting ALL the air out fixed it.

I'm amazed at the lessons learned from that cobalt your able to reference in this fourm.

i had an eagle talon, but that thing was just one big design flaw after another.

Iam Broke · 01-12-2014, 03:18 PM

I had it for 3 years and modded the hell out of it. Learned to tune on it with HPTuners and it was direct injection so many of the same things apply. I used to help a lot on CSS.net and HPTuners 4 cyl forums also. Went on from there to work on the '02 WS6 until I got the Camaro.

01-11-2014, 11:41 AM	#1
Boosted Sprayed V6 Drives: 2012 camaro 2LS Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Maryland Posts: 58	Slipping clutch? Help! Lol Hey everyone. so I'm back with yet another issue with my car. So I have a spec stage two clutch and aluminum flywheel in my car and lately when the car is cold the clutch engages super late and slips just a bit under moderate to heavy acceleration, at least that's how it feels. Now here is the strange part, once the car heats up it grabs much earlier in the pedal range and won't slip even under full boost and a little nitrous? The shop I have it at seems stumped, but wants to take the trans off and look at it, but I'm am worth of afraid they are just hunting around not really knowing what they are looking for? Their a great shop but I don't want to waste the money if I don't have to. Any ideas anyone?

01-11-2014, 12:00 PM	#2
Iam Broke PHAT B33 Drives: 2012 TF3 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Dark of the Moon Posts: 1,460 View My Garage	Sounds like there is still a bit of air in the slave cylinder at the clutch. Bleed, bleed, bleed. When I had the issue on a turbo LNF Cobalt SS it was air in the line and got worse with cold temps after putting in a SPEC Stage 2+ and a LW flywheel. Getting ALL the air out fixed it. __________________ Another 1 of 371 '12 T3 LS3 M6's built.

01-11-2014, 02:14 PM	#4
Iam Broke PHAT B33 Drives: 2012 TF3 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Dark of the Moon Posts: 1,460 View My Garage	Not on yours, sorry. On the LNF setup it was on the top of the clutch housing where the hyd line enters it. Have a helper apply pressure to the clutch pedal but not enough to engage it, loosen the bleeder as they push the pedal down & tighten the bleeder before they release it. Repeat as necessary. A line from the bleeder to a glass jar helps keep from making a mess and if you keep some fluid in the jar there is a less chance of getting air back in. Since the bleeder isn't at the slave cyl it takes time for all the air to migrate up out of the slave near the bleeder or above to get it out of the line. You can put a vacuum bleeder on the clutch master cyl to help draw the air out but I never had much luck getting it all out that way. Hope you get it, 99% sure that's it. __________________ Another 1 of 371 '12 T3 LS3 M6's built.

01-12-2014, 03:18 PM	#6
Iam Broke PHAT B33 Drives: 2012 TF3 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Dark of the Moon Posts: 1,460 View My Garage	I had it for 3 years and modded the hell out of it. Learned to tune on it with HPTuners and it was direct injection so many of the same things apply. I used to help a lot on CSS.net and HPTuners 4 cyl forums also. Went on from there to work on the '02 WS6 until I got the Camaro. __________________ Another 1 of 371 '12 T3 LS3 M6's built.

01-11-2014, 12:12 PM	#3
Boosted Sprayed V6 Drives: 2012 camaro 2LS Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Maryland Posts: 58	Thanks! I had offered that explanation to the shop and the dismissed it as highly unlikely, I'll now demand that they bleed it. Or even try it myself. Any idea where the correct bleeder screws are and what I have to do to get to them?