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[Muddflap]

Originally Posted by SolomonAKOO

So whats the difference between Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (silver bottle) and Valvoline Racing Synthetic (VR1) Motor Oil (black Bottle)?
Is it just the synthetic part that's different?

That I'm not sure of. I've always just bought the grey bottle.

[376LS3]

Originally Posted by SolomonAKOO

So whats the difference between Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (silver bottle) and Valvoline Racing Synthetic (VR1) Motor Oil (black Bottle)?
Is it just the synthetic part that's different?

The conventional (silver) VR1 has more zinc and ZDDP added to it for greater protection. The only downside is since it is a racing oil, there are no detergents in it, which basically require your oil changes to be exactly on time. I do mine every <3000 miles, which is about 9 months for me.

[62nalide]

Originally Posted by Muddflap

What 62nalide said about the NF i really don't consider it bashing as most of the times we see of it are generally in the 11.8-12.0 area. Granted it might be the driver but if that is all you see that is all you have to go by.

Yeah pretty much.

[SolomonAKOO]

I went to Valvoline website and they seem to be pretty much the same thing only one is full synthetic and the other is not. But I'm no engine oil guru so not too sure.

[SolomonAKOO]

Originally Posted by 376LS3

The conventional (silver) VR1 has more zinc and ZDDP added to it for greater protection. The only downside is since it is a racing oil, there are no detergents in it, which basically require your oil changes to be exactly on time. I do mine every <3000 miles, which is about 9 months for me.

So the Black is still a good one or no?

[376LS3]

Originally Posted by SolomonAKOO

So the Black is still a good one or no?

Absolutely! It still has more zinc and zddp than most other oil out there. I just run conventional because it was $4 a quart when it was in stores. Now that I have to order it, it runs about $7.

Edit: Here is some info between the two I found on Bob is the oil guy:

10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
moly = 162 ppm

[thahemp]

If you buy amsoil you don't have to change it every 3k miles. I can get zrod for about $8/qt. Also, if you want the VR1.. just go into oreilly's and have them order it to the store. Then you get their cheap price and you don't have to pay shipping.

[axis]

Ok, since we're talking oil, I have a question that hasn't been answered. I know you need to run a oil with higher levels of ZDDP when you do a cam. My question is, do you need to run it from then on or pretty much only during the break-in period? I ask because I see several shops recommending M1 or the like for their cammed cars.

[thahemp]

Then on. The additives are the last line of protection when the oil shears.

[grocerygetter]

GPI put the normal dose of M1 in mine after the cam. I'm strongly looking at swapping to another oil. I saw the benefits on my Buick motor...granted, it was flat tappet...but still. I miss the good 'ol Rotella T when it had Zinc.

[grocerygetter]

another great option is run what oil you want...say M1 and use ZDDP (Richard Clark's design that is a high zinc additive).

[LS3 SS]

Originally Posted by Muddflap

I pretty much already know my clutch will be the first thing to go. I give that poor thing hell!!!!

Your clutch should hold up to your current power level Bro. I made 9 or 10 passes (some of them back to back) and had zero issues with my clutch. The biggest issue I had was keeping the TR6060 hot between runs so I wouldn't grind 2-3 shifts.

Originally Posted by thahemp

Yep and yep. I'm hoping the suspension stuff is sufficient to save the rear end. I'm gonna launch easy until I trust the car.

Do you have any launching advice hemp? I read a thread in the drag racing discussion where most people advised starting the burnout in second gear, and slipping the clutch out with DRs at about 4500-5k rpms. And the recommended psi for DRs was about 16-17psi.

Originally Posted by Muddflap

Hemp.... I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and get dr's for my 20's. I've really been trying to wait till I get some 18's so I can save about $160 on the tires but the wait is killing me.

Do it bro! Even though I had fun when I ran at the track, I wasted my time pretty much running on street tires.

Originally Posted by thahemp

I wanted MT ETs, so I swallowed the wheels. Very glad I did. I should have no traction problems next season. I'm really excited to get after it. I bet Chris is too. Can't wait!

Yea I'm hyped. Can't wait until the weather gets warmer. I'm hoping for an 11.60 or better, which shouldn't be hard with seat time.

[SolomonAKOO]

Something I found.

Seems there are certain types of Mobil1 that have about the same or the same amounts of zinc and phosphorous.

Not trying to start an argument or controversy, but I just hate to change my oil now after I've been using it for so long. lol

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

[thahemp]

Originally Posted by LS3 SS

Do you have any launching advice hemp? I read a thread in the drag racing discussion where most people advised starting the burnout in second gear, and slipping the clutch out with DRs at about 4500-5k rpms. And the recommended psi for DRs was about 16-17psi.

I'll have a couple months practice with some of my local buddies. I am definitely not qualified to give any kind of drag racing advice! My plan is to pick it up as fast as humanly possible.

Originally Posted by SolomonAKOO

Something I found.

Seems there are certain types of Mobil1 that have about the same or the same amounts of zinc and phosphorous.

Not trying to start an argument or controversy, but I just hate to change my oil now after I've been using it for so long. lol

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

You should poke around on bobistheoilguy and look for actual lab test results. The levels of additives don't tell the whole story. There is a reason everyone says amsoil, joe gibbs, VR1, etc... They test well.