Spark plug torque spec. - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

bowtiesonly · 04-27-2014, 03:39 PM

How important is it to get exactly 15 pnds of torque on the plugs? I've always gone just a hair past tight and was done.

rtcat600man · 04-27-2014, 07:39 PM

You will want to be careful so as not to over tighten them and strip the spark plug in the aluminum heads.

claudiel19 · 01-07-2023, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rtcat600man

You will want to be careful so as not to over tighten them and strip the spark plug in the aluminum heads.

Bringing this thread back since I plan on doing this myself. Car has original 41-110 from AC Delco, just purchased 41-162s. Anyhow, plugs say they are pre-gapped and no need to use anti seize correct?

Also is there anyway to torque them correctly without a torque wrench? Is the general consensus just to NOT over tighten?

claudiel19 · 01-07-2023, 11:25 AM

I’m doing this for the SS , just realized this is the v6 thread.

simon777 · 01-07-2023, 04:36 PM

The above 15 pounds sounds wrong. That's in Nm, not ft lbs. You'd probably snap the plug with 15. It should be 11 ft lbs. Should be same for V8, but I don't have my shop manual nearby right now to confirm. You don't need a ton of force on plugs.

You can do it without a torque wrench. I've done so on over a dozen engines without issues or plugs coming loose. My preference is to add a very small amount of antiseize on the threads then keep turning until snug then just a quarter turn past that. If you feel a ton of resistance, stop. You do not want to risk snapping a plug. I did that once on a small 2 cylinder motorcycle engine and spent hours trying to extract it without removing the head. Never did it again after that experience.

bsn · 01-08-2023, 10:16 AM

The use of anti-seize is NOT recommended!!! 11-15lbs is the range and a whole lot less than what you would think by feel. Without a torque wrench it would be snug and maybe a 1/16th to 1/8 turn more. Torque wrenches aren't that expensive.

ariZona28 · 01-08-2023, 11:14 AM

Straight from the Chilton manual. Note some values are in-lbs.

xstuntman · 01-08-2023, 01:15 PM

And that torque number is without anti seize.
With anti seize then roughly a third less.

simon777 · 01-08-2023, 02:36 PM

Good points, be careful with antiseize if you choose to use it. You forfeit torqueing it to spec if you use it and are going against the official recommendation. Most plugs have an antiseize coating on them now, but not sure how much of that stays on with repeat removal and install.

I was taught by old school mechanics and have seen my share of seized plugs from the old engines I work on as a hobby. With how long plugs last these days, I personally add just a tiny dab of antiseize applied to the middle threads and never the first few threads close to the combustion chamber on my vehicles. Antiseize is a lube so you can break the plug while tightening if you don't know what you're doing. It can potentially electrically short the plug if you cover all the threads so use only a tiny amount if you use it. I see why they don't recommend it as it's a liability and can cause problems, but this is what I do, same as how I change "lifetime fluids" on my own schedule.

claudiel19 · 01-09-2023, 11:51 PM

So 15nm = 11lbs. Got it! Will be doing this on my car this week. Wish me luck on the passenger side. Tight as a v…

ElderJ · 01-10-2023, 11:45 AM

Chilton manual states that anti-seize is required. I did plug changes about 5k miles ago (year and a half) w/o issues thus far. I didn't use a torque wrench, either, but used the snug method. Most every mechanic I spoke to stated that it's not necessary to go OCD on plug torque; just snug them up.

04-27-2014, 03:39 PM	#1
bowtiesonly Drives: 2012 Camaro 2ss Join Date: May 2012 Location: Arkansas Posts: 225 View My Garage	Spark plug torque spec. How important is it to get exactly 15 pnds of torque on the plugs? I've always gone just a hair past tight and was done. __________________ 2012 2ss , long tube headers , summit x pipe ,borla mufflers, vararam intake, vmax ported throttle body rdp motorsports dynosteve tuned, BMR trailing arms and bushings elite engineering catch can. [Ifirst camaro ]2012 LT LFX, nytrex wet system ,GPI dyno tune, Injen longtube intake, Dynomax axle back exhaust, Vmax ported throttle body, elite engineering catch can.

04-27-2014, 07:39 PM	#2
rtcat600man having FUN now 13.66@101 Drives: 2010 2LT IOM Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Clarkston, Michigan Posts: 9,230 View My Garage	You will want to be careful so as not to over tighten them and strip the spark plug in the aluminum heads. __________________ MY BUILD

01-07-2023, 04:36 PM	#5
simon777 Drives: 2015 Camaro LS Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Colorado Posts: 141	The above 15 pounds sounds wrong. That's in Nm, not ft lbs. You'd probably snap the plug with 15. It should be 11 ft lbs. Should be same for V8, but I don't have my shop manual nearby right now to confirm. You don't need a ton of force on plugs. You can do it without a torque wrench. I've done so on over a dozen engines without issues or plugs coming loose. My preference is to add a very small amount of antiseize on the threads then keep turning until snug then just a quarter turn past that. If you feel a ton of resistance, stop. You do not want to risk snapping a plug. I did that once on a small 2 cylinder motorcycle engine and spent hours trying to extract it without removing the head. Never did it again after that experience. __________________ 2015 LFX M6 LS:Rotofab intake,Vmax ported throttle body,Jacfab laminator FX,extendolator,ARH HFC downpipes,Magnaflow resonated X pipe,SLP LM2 catback,Solo J pipes,Overkill Flexfuel sensor,E85 tune,3.91 gears,Monster twin disc clutch,Michelin PS4S tires,FR ZL1 wheels,SS brembos,BP drilled and slotted rotors,HPS 5.0 pads,RST SS brake lines,BMR rear trailing arms,Hendrix solid rear cradle bushings,1" drop Hotchkis lowering springs,1LE struts and sway bars,oem strut tower bar,Pedders radius rod bushing insert and rear trailing arm bushings,Z28 upper control arm bushings

01-08-2023, 11:14 AM	#7
ariZona28 Give speed a chance Drives: 2015 Camaro 2LS, 2015 Camaro Z/28 Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Mesa, Az Posts: 2,798	Straight from the Chilton manual. Note some values are in-lbs. Attached Images __________________ 2LS: a TREMENDOUS machine. Z/28: it's a BIT MORE POWERFUL, of course.

01-08-2023, 01:15 PM	#8
xstuntman Drives: 2012 Victory Red LFX Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: west central Texas Posts: 1,367	And that torque number is without anti seize. With anti seize then roughly a third less. __________________ '18 SS wheels, colored matched Heritage grille, actual driving lights, ZL1 strut tower brace, GM Performance billet aluminum fuel door, victory red rotors and calipers, 1/4 window American flags, splash guards, AEM dry panel air filter, Hot Wheels steering wheel and seat covers, Hot Wheels exterior emblems.

01-07-2023, 11:25 AM	#4
claudiel19 Drives: Camaro SS 2014 Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Texas Posts: 58	I’m doing this for the SS , just realized this is the v6 thread.

01-08-2023, 10:16 AM	#6
bsn Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Virginia Posts: 469	The use of anti-seize is NOT recommended!!! 11-15lbs is the range and a whole lot less than what you would think by feel. Without a torque wrench it would be snug and maybe a 1/16th to 1/8 turn more. Torque wrenches aren't that expensive.

01-08-2023, 02:36 PM	#9
simon777 Drives: 2015 Camaro LS Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Colorado Posts: 141	Good points, be careful with antiseize if you choose to use it. You forfeit torqueing it to spec if you use it and are going against the official recommendation. Most plugs have an antiseize coating on them now, but not sure how much of that stays on with repeat removal and install. I was taught by old school mechanics and have seen my share of seized plugs from the old engines I work on as a hobby. With how long plugs last these days, I personally add just a tiny dab of antiseize applied to the middle threads and never the first few threads close to the combustion chamber on my vehicles. Antiseize is a lube so you can break the plug while tightening if you don't know what you're doing. It can potentially electrically short the plug if you cover all the threads so use only a tiny amount if you use it. I see why they don't recommend it as it's a liability and can cause problems, but this is what I do, same as how I change "lifetime fluids" on my own schedule. __________________ 2015 LFX M6 LS:Rotofab intake,Vmax ported throttle body,Jacfab laminator FX,extendolator,ARH HFC downpipes,Magnaflow resonated X pipe,SLP LM2 catback,Solo J pipes,Overkill Flexfuel sensor,E85 tune,3.91 gears,Monster twin disc clutch,Michelin PS4S tires,FR ZL1 wheels,SS brembos,BP drilled and slotted rotors,HPS 5.0 pads,RST SS brake lines,BMR rear trailing arms,Hendrix solid rear cradle bushings,1" drop Hotchkis lowering springs,1LE struts and sway bars,oem strut tower bar,Pedders radius rod bushing insert and rear trailing arm bushings,Z28 upper control arm bushings

01-09-2023, 11:51 PM	#10
claudiel19 Drives: Camaro SS 2014 Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Texas Posts: 58	So 15nm = 11lbs. Got it! Will be doing this on my car this week. Wish me luck on the passenger side. Tight as a v…

01-10-2023, 11:45 AM	#11
ElderJ Drives: 2014 Camaro 1LT Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Central Florida Posts: 372	Chilton manual states that anti-seize is required. I did plug changes about 5k miles ago (year and a half) w/o issues thus far. I didn't use a torque wrench, either, but used the snug method. Most every mechanic I spoke to stated that it's not necessary to go OCD on plug torque; just snug them up.