04-28-2014, 06:10 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 Silver SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 882
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Sway bar support question
So Friday I decided to make sure everything in my rear suspension was tightened down, was hand tightening a bolt on the driver side sway bar support, felt it getting easier to tighten, then SNAP!!! broke the bolt head off, two days later, two trips to Home Depot and a trip to borrow a corded drill I finally got the bolt out.
My question is I bought some bolts from Home Depot and one of the guys there was saying that those bolts aren't obviously made for cars suspension and aren't up to spec. Will I have any issues or should I order some OEM bolts? I mean these bolts seem pretty tough but what do ik.
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2010 Silver Ice Metallic Camaro SS/RS LS3
Mods...so far: resonator/muffler delete, tinted everything, '13 shift knob/boot, bowtie delete, PFADT sway bars, CAI intake, Hurst short shifter, JBA cat deletes, BMR trailing arms/outer bushings/steering rack bushing, Bo White ported TB. Rhino79 Dyno tuned...405 HP/399 TQ |
04-28-2014, 06:46 AM | #2 | |
2013 Camaro SS1LECTSVZ28
Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Suburbs of Detroit, MI
Posts: 2,440
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Quote:
Order the correct bolts.....most bolts at HD are Grade 2 or 8.8. There might be some Grade 5, but if you don't know what you have you need to order the correct ones Explanation of bolt grades. http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-chart.aspx
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04-28-2014, 11:41 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Silver SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 882
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I do know the bolts that I bought have the three lines on the head, bcus I was tryin to use the three letter code on the OEM bolts to try and find a replacement. The stock bolts are 13mm but all they had were 5/16", it worked but in the long run I don't want to run into issues.
__________________
2010 Silver Ice Metallic Camaro SS/RS LS3
Mods...so far: resonator/muffler delete, tinted everything, '13 shift knob/boot, bowtie delete, PFADT sway bars, CAI intake, Hurst short shifter, JBA cat deletes, BMR trailing arms/outer bushings/steering rack bushing, Bo White ported TB. Rhino79 Dyno tuned...405 HP/399 TQ |
04-28-2014, 01:08 PM | #4 |
Not sure how you got the standard bolt in there without destroying the threads but I would use the correct bolt. Use an OEM replacement unless you can get an (Metric)ARP replacement.
...and stop breaking bolts by hand Hercules |
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04-28-2014, 01:43 PM | #5 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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The problem has nothing to do with the thread because there are only a couple different standardized threads available. You can get plastic bolts that would screw in just fine. This is entirely a bolt material issue as mentioned above and should be addressed with OEM or better bolts.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
04-28-2014, 03:33 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Silver SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 882
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Oh I'm sure the threads are probably ruined now after putting the standard bolt in, I'll test it out tonight and see if it's possible to get an OEM bolt to go in after using the replacement bolt. If not I might be stuck with the standard bolt but might just have to find a suitable one made for suspension.
__________________
2010 Silver Ice Metallic Camaro SS/RS LS3
Mods...so far: resonator/muffler delete, tinted everything, '13 shift knob/boot, bowtie delete, PFADT sway bars, CAI intake, Hurst short shifter, JBA cat deletes, BMR trailing arms/outer bushings/steering rack bushing, Bo White ported TB. Rhino79 Dyno tuned...405 HP/399 TQ |
04-28-2014, 03:54 PM | #7 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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I would suggest a Grade 8 metric bolt (if you haven't destroyed the threads already)!!!
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04-29-2014, 08:10 AM | #8 | |
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04-29-2014, 10:22 AM | #9 | |
Drives: 2010 Silver SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 882
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Quote:
Is the replacement bolt I got better or worse? I know the threads and size are slightly different but it worked, or at least I made it work by using the standard bolt.
__________________
2010 Silver Ice Metallic Camaro SS/RS LS3
Mods...so far: resonator/muffler delete, tinted everything, '13 shift knob/boot, bowtie delete, PFADT sway bars, CAI intake, Hurst short shifter, JBA cat deletes, BMR trailing arms/outer bushings/steering rack bushing, Bo White ported TB. Rhino79 Dyno tuned...405 HP/399 TQ |
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04-29-2014, 10:49 AM | #10 | |
Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 1,265
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Quote:
A "grade 8" version of a metric bolt would be the 10.8 bolt, where a 10.9 bolt has a minimum tensile strength of 150,800 PSI and a grade 8 standard bolt would be rated at a minimum tensile strength of 150,000 PSI. The threads and diameter of what you used are close, that's why the bolt went in, but you should run the correct metric tap through the hole and install the correct bolt if there are enough threads left. If not, go up to the next size and drill and tap again. |
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