Sub/Amp/Speaker Issue - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Trentin24 · 07-16-2014, 09:43 PM

So I have had this sub and amp setup in my previous camaro for about a year, when I sold the car I took it out so I could use it in my 2011 2SS. My previous camaro didnt have the BA system so it was new to me when I tried installing the LOC with the different system, I said screw it I will get the FARK kit from ******** because I will end up changing out the speakers and amp later on and i can just use the RCA outputs that come with it for now.

Well when I hooked it up, made sure left and right, front and rear were correct, turned the speakers on, and i heard a loud squeal. Shut the speakers off, switched the RCA cables, turned it back on. No squeal. But then my amp started smoking once I hooked the sub up, I thought this was weird because i hooked everything up the exact same way as i did in my old camaro. Never changed a thing. Now I am going to be purchasing a new, much smaller amp (size wise). But I am afraid to hook it up again because I don't want to run into this same issue. The BA speakers are fine by me for now, just lacking bass.

Before you guys start asking about my connections, I took both the power and ground wires directly from the battery.
It is an old Rockford Fosgate Amp I was going to be replacing anyways, but now I am just scared to attempt it again.

I will be buying new power and ground wires when I get a new amp just to be safe, any help would be great.

Trentin24 · 07-17-2014, 02:57 PM

Anyone?

Dexman1349 · 07-17-2014, 03:04 PM

Maybe the amp is kicking the bucket? :dunno:

Either case, you let the "magic smoke" out which typically means something is fried.

Trentin24 · 07-17-2014, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

Maybe the amp is kicking the bucket? :dunno:

Either case, you let the "magic smoke" out which typically means something is fried.

Well I am no longer using that amp, but I just don't understand what caused it to happen.

Trentin24 · 07-17-2014, 03:30 PM

Since I already have this sub:http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p2d2-10 I was wondering if anyone could give me any recommendations of what amp to run, the speaker place wasn't much help they just wanted to make a sale. So if anyone could help me that'd be great.

Dexman1349 · 07-17-2014, 05:40 PM

Go to Pacific Stereo, click on the Live Chat feature at the top of the screen and talk to Bill. Tell him Keith sent you.

Dexman1349 · 07-18-2014, 09:48 AM

Another thought, are you using the right size wires/cables? Undersized cables can cause serious issues.

ClawSS · 07-18-2014, 10:39 AM

"magic smoke"...you read that post on DIYMobile too? Funny things people have been told regarding car audio. It's a hoot.

Dexman1349 · 07-18-2014, 01:20 PM

"magic smoke" is a running joke with any electrical engineer, not just audio. Basically, what I think electrical engineers do is pure voodoo and they install this magic smoke inside the wires. Once the smoke is let out (any short I've experienced had a small puff of smoke), typically the electrical component stops working.

Trentin24 · 07-18-2014, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

Go to Pacific Stereo, click on the Live Chat feature at the top of the screen and talk to Bill. Tell him Keith sent you.

I will do that!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

Another thought, are you using the right size wires/cables? Undersized cables can cause serious issues.

I used 4 gauge wire. I have been using that same wire for about 2 years and that specific setup for about a year. Took connections right from battery and the remote sure was like an 18 gauge coming from the ******** harness that is like a 20.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk but not while driving

JJPlace1 · 09-03-2014, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

"magic smoke" is a running joke with any electrical engineer, not just audio. Basically, what I think electrical engineers do is pure voodoo and they install this magic smoke inside the wires. Once the smoke is let out (any short I've experienced had a small puff of smoke), typically the electrical component stops working.

All chips run on smoke , when they lose the smoke they quit !!

Steve@Subthump · 09-03-2014, 08:57 PM

Keep in mind that there is dc in the input signal and your old school amp may not be able to handle it too well. Always best to filter out the dc in those instances.

jgray1978 · 09-03-2014, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

"magic smoke" is a running joke with any electrical engineer, not just audio. Basically, what I think electrical engineers do is pure voodoo and they install this magic smoke inside the wires. Once the smoke is let out (any short I've experienced had a small puff of smoke), typically the electrical component stops working.

The term also exists in the IT realm.

2010SLVRBULIT · 09-03-2014, 09:06 PM

..never ground amp directly to the battery, ground should be to frame..and remember to fuse the power no longer than 18" to the battery. Lucky you didn't smoke your car.

07-16-2014, 09:43 PM	#1
Trentin24 Trentin24 Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Washington Posts: 1,377 View My Garage	Sub/Amp/Speaker Issue So I have had this sub and amp setup in my previous camaro for about a year, when I sold the car I took it out so I could use it in my 2011 2SS. My previous camaro didnt have the BA system so it was new to me when I tried installing the LOC with the different system, I said screw it I will get the FARK kit from ******** because I will end up changing out the speakers and amp later on and i can just use the RCA outputs that come with it for now. Well when I hooked it up, made sure left and right, front and rear were correct, turned the speakers on, and i heard a loud squeal. Shut the speakers off, switched the RCA cables, turned it back on. No squeal. But then my amp started smoking once I hooked the sub up, I thought this was weird because i hooked everything up the exact same way as i did in my old camaro. Never changed a thing. Now I am going to be purchasing a new, much smaller amp (size wise). But I am afraid to hook it up again because I don't want to run into this same issue. The BA speakers are fine by me for now, just lacking bass. Before you guys start asking about my connections, I took both the power and ground wires directly from the battery. It is an old Rockford Fosgate Amp I was going to be replacing anyways, but now I am just scared to attempt it again. I will be buying new power and ground wires when I get a new amp just to be safe, any help would be great.

07-17-2014, 03:04 PM	#3
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	Maybe the amp is kicking the bucket? :dunno: Either case, you let the "magic smoke" out which typically means something is fried. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

07-17-2014, 05:40 PM	#6
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	Go to Pacific Stereo, click on the Live Chat feature at the top of the screen and talk to Bill. Tell him Keith sent you. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

07-18-2014, 09:48 AM	#7
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	Another thought, are you using the right size wires/cables? Undersized cables can cause serious issues. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

07-18-2014, 10:39 AM	#8
ClawSS High-tech Redneck Drives: '10 CGM SS, '02 2500HD, '09 300SRT8 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lexington, KY Posts: 757	"magic smoke"...you read that post on DIYMobile too? Funny things people have been told regarding car audio. It's a hoot. __________________ "My friends call me Chris. Are you my friend?" 2010 CGM L99 2SS/RS - GPI SS3 VVT, BTR DoD Delete, Circle D 4c, BTR springs, Katech C5R Timing Chain, MRR-228 315/275, CAI, Elite catch-can, TSP 1 7/8" Headers + offroad pipes, Magnaflow 3", Pfadt springs, BMR LCAs, toelinks, trailing arms, cradle bushings, & sway bars w/ endlinks, Vitesse paddles, heritage grille, and an eBay splitter. Power upgrades by Race Proven Perf.; Tuning by ShorTuning.

07-17-2014, 02:57 PM	#2
Trentin24 Trentin24 Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Washington Posts: 1,377 View My Garage	Anyone?

07-17-2014, 03:30 PM	#5
Trentin24 Trentin24 Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Washington Posts: 1,377 View My Garage	Since I already have this sub:http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p2d2-10 I was wondering if anyone could give me any recommendations of what amp to run, the speaker place wasn't much help they just wanted to make a sale. So if anyone could help me that'd be great.

07-18-2014, 01:20 PM	#9
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	"magic smoke" is a running joke with any electrical engineer, not just audio. Basically, what I think electrical engineers do is pure voodoo and they install this magic smoke inside the wires. Once the smoke is let out (any short I've experienced had a small puff of smoke), typically the electrical component stops working. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

09-03-2014, 08:57 PM	#12
Steve@Subthump Account Suspended Drives: 2011 2SS IOM Vert Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,096	Keep in mind that there is dc in the input signal and your old school amp may not be able to handle it too well. Always best to filter out the dc in those instances.

09-03-2014, 09:06 PM	#14
2010SLVRBULIT Drives: G5(LLT) & C6(LS3) Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: MARS Posts: 7,527 View My Garage	..never ground amp directly to the battery, ground should be to frame..and remember to fuse the power no longer than 18" to the battery. Lucky you didn't smoke your car.