FIXED!!Monster clutch. Those that have tracked,question concerning your 1LE's clutch

[cornerspeed92]

I got to check out baby today. Everything is in absolute perfect condition, there is no wear on the clutch either. The service manager told me i obviously know how to drive and if he didn't know me and someone asked him if this car had been tracked he would have to say no. He has a call out to the field engineer again to say now what? This is the same guy who said this is caused by not using (post 211)launch control...in roadracing-sigh! So now what, nothing needs to be replaced. I couldn't get any pictures he asked me not to, but like i say, nothing to show, it was in pristine condition.

[CHMSC]

Put the parts in bud and try it out. See if that fixes your issue.

[cornerspeed92]

Originally Posted by CHMSC

Put the parts in bud and try it out. See if that fixes your issue.

Thanks Doug, yeah the SM said if the field engineer cant make it they will take pictures and put it back together.

[gajagfan]

Originally Posted by cornerspeed92

Thanks Doug, yeah the SM said if the field engineer cant make it they will take pictures and put it back together.

Thanks for keeping us posted as you go through this hassle.

[h018871]

the most important part to add while apart, IMHO is the remote bleeder..............and then flush OFTEN

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by cornerspeed92

Thanks Doug, yeah the SM said if the field engineer cant make it they will take pictures and put it back together.

So we know its definately not the clutch itself but the system that actuates the clutch. I'd put your new parts in and be done. Hopefully they wont mind installing on the warranty card.

[cornerspeed92]

Originally Posted by gajagfan

Thanks for keeping us posted as you go through this hassle.

Yea, were all ultimately in this together

Originally Posted by h018871

the most important part to add while apart, IMHO is the remote bleeder..............and then flush OFTEN

That is happening along with the other things i bought, they said that Billet slave bearing i bought would take several hrs to do, and im not going to pay to have that done.

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

So we know its definately not the clutch itself but the system that actuates the clutch. I'd put your new parts in and be done. Hopefully they wont mind installing on the warranty card.

He said he wasn't going to charge me since they had to take it apart anyway.

[CHMSC]

Originally Posted by cornerspeed92

Yea, were all ultimately in this together

That is happening along with the other things i bought, they said that Billet slave bearing i bought would take several hrs to do, and im not going to pay to have that done.


He said he wasn't going to charge me since they had to take it apart anyway.

Sounds like you have a good dealer. I have never had that experience hence why I do all my own work lol.

[cornerspeed92]

Originally Posted by CHMSC

Sounds like you have a good dealer. I have never had that experience hence why I do all my own work lol.

Yeah i do, im lucky. The service manager personally gave me a ride home when i dropped my car off in a 2015 red 1LE.

[markgws6]

I was there with Brian (at Momentum's Clinic) and it sounded like the best recommendation, as has been mentioned, to bleed the clutch fluid often and properly (which I've never done) before each and every track day. Also, I'm thinking if you have the tick remote bleeder, it would not hurt to do it more often.

Luckily I've been to at least 5 track days and have not had the stuck clutch pedal yet or grinding in 3rd (I do have notchy shifting and sometimes it will not engage a gear without shifting into another gear first.) But I will for certain get my car prepped and clutch fluid bled as well as tranny fluid changed after hearing all of your experiences here. Another thing I remember "Jeff" saying, is that the darkness of the fluid was not caused by the clutch but from the reservoirs cap's seal? I don't see how that can happen though and that does not sound reasonable to me...

Mark, I hope the other parts help to fix your issue too. I hope Momentum will be as willing to do this if Brian and I start having the same issues.

[mark1]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

This clutch situation is puzzling to me too. This has been going on long before the 1LE was released. Chevy even gave the 1LEs a stronger transmission with a higher torque rating and bigger output shaft (like the ZL1). Why couldn't they spend a few hundred more with a better clutch support design and prevent all this. For sure they have known about this problem. We have a big heavy car with a strong engine and big tires. And I don't think its the fault of the clutch or pressure plate itself.

I flush my tiny clutch reservoir twice a week. But haven't had my Tick bleeder long enough to use it. In my 1LE I have only seen the clutch sticking problem twice, once when I let the fluid get dirty and once when I overfilled the reservoir. The stock setup lasted for well over 100 drag strip runs @ 425 RWHP and another 100+ @ around 600. In the end though the engine could overpower the clutch on one good launch. Then it would have to sit to recover. Time for a new clutch.



I had big clutch problems with my '11 LS3 SS. I did not know about the fluid problem until right before I traded for the 1LE.

I have a Centerforce DYAD 2 disk now and a new stock slave. The foot pressure is lighter than stock, a very progressive release, and it will last a very long time, hopefully even for me. I have never heard of one sticking. A twin disk might be overkill for you trackers, but if you are going to pull the trans, might as well put something good in there.

I wonder if there are better slave replacements and looking forward to a bigger second reservoir. I like keeping the clutch fluid separate to keep the dirty stuff away from the brakes. I think the reservoir makes it easier to keep the clutch system clean, but it is tiny.

how do you flush the brake resevoir?

[backeddy]

I suck it out with a mityvac, refill with new (i alternate between amsoil 600 $13.00 for 12oz and blue $28 per liter), then bleed brakes all around. I alternate colors, so it is easy to tell when it's fully bled.

[Steve@SNL/Monster Clutch]

It starts with a sub par clutch that GM uses and should be ashamed of using.

Next up would be the lack of volume in the clutch system itself.

Follow that up with recommending DOT 3 fluid which they should be ashamed of as well.

The mix in the use of plastic in slave cylinders that take the brunt of the bearing load while spinning at idle - 6k+ rpm.

All in all it's frustrating, though not surprising from a manufacturer.

How do you fix it?

Well, if it were me I'd start with getting a reservoir that can hold more volume. Flush the system with a good quality DOT 4 fluid, and go from there. If the clutch keeps sinking to the floor pull the trans and throw that thing in the dumpster. Get a good, solid clutch to replace it, put a billet bearing support on a new slave, put it back together with DOT 4, and go enjoy the car.

[Bretts]

I haven't read this whole thread just some of it and similar ones , or had a problem yet...
but wonder if anyone has discussed the possibility that the return action on the fluid system (on vacuum) is drawing vapors out of the clutch fluid when its hot . it would have a spongy feel after as a result
This is a common issue in the oil surface pumps I Have dealt with we call it cavitation
solution is temperature dependant, or in pumps increasing head pressure or slowing pump down neither applicable to us but one other solution is to increase piping/tube/hose diameter to reduce frictional forces
It doesn't explain the non return of pedal issue
I'm hoping we figure a proper fix for this as there has to be a root cause somewhere
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