How Flush is Too Flush?

[PalmerGA]

Originally Posted by Spec

Pardon the interruption but... Spec - what spoiler is that? It's beautiful and I have been hunting something like that for a while. Thanks.

[LOBBS]

Wheel offset calculator

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

[ST1LE]

Originally Posted by Swacer

Huh? I'm buying a new set of wheels and I am asking which offset I should get.

To give further detail, I plan to run a 275/40 up front, and a 305/35 out back. Going to be MT Street Comp tires.

He was asking what you intended on doing with the new wheels.

Many people buy track/strip dedicated wheel set ups etc, so Pete wanted to know your reason for purchasing so he can give you the best answer.

If just for cosmetic reasons, then clearly it doesn't matter and I think you got your answer anyway.

[Swacer]

Originally Posted by ST1LE

He was asking what you intended on doing with the new wheels.

Many people buy track/strip dedicated wheel set ups etc, so Pete wanted to know your reason for purchasing so he can give you the best answer.

If just for cosmetic reasons, then clearly it doesn't matter and I think you got your answer anyway.

AH! Yes, for cosmetic only. Maybe a trip to the strip at some point, but nothing specific.

[ST1LE]

Originally Posted by PalmerGA

Pardon the interruption but... Spec - what spoiler is that? It's beautiful and I have been hunting something like that for a while. Thanks.

In his Sig '3D Carbon Spoiler'.

[TPAJETSKI]

Here's a shot of the front (sorry bad pic), and a shot from the rear (note that on the rear shot, I had not yet added the adapters to the fronts).[/QUOTE]

I don't usually care for aftermarket rims but that looks bad ass.

[LOBBS]

Originally Posted by Swacer

And based on that, that should mean that my aftermarket front would come out to the same point as the factory wheel, while the aftermarket rear will come out 5mm further than the stock?

That will be the location of the mounting surface. Since you're going an inch wider on the wheels up front the outer edge will move out 13 mm and the inner edge moves in 13 mm. Out back with the +5 difference you're moving the outer edge out 18 mm and the inner edge in 8 mm.

[JusticePete]

The 1LE sway bars are designed to work with a semi square wheel and tire setup. Going to a 275/305 staggered setup will create and understeering 1lE.

[PalmerGA]

Originally Posted by ST1LE

In his Sig '3D Carbon Spoiler'.

Ah, yes... I often fail to look at the Mods sigs. Thanks.

[Spec]

Originally Posted by PalmerGA

Ah, yes... I often fail to look at the Mods sigs. Thanks.

PM sent, PalmerGA...


I looked long and hard for the right one and this one stuck with me...

[Spec]

Originally Posted by TPAJETSKI

Here's a shot of the front (sorry bad pic), and a shot from the rear (note that on the rear shot, I had not yet added the adapters to the fronts).

I don't usually care for aftermarket rims but that looks bad ass.[/QUOTE]

Thank you.

[JR 1]

Originally Posted by Spec

Hold on now... the offset always depends on the type of wheel. I've got +20 Offset for the rears and +35 Offset for the fronts on the Niche Milans, and it all sits perfectly flush, at least to my liking. I did have to add some small adapters to my fronts in order to get them there... but all is well in that department.

Here's a shot of the front (sorry bad pic), and a shot from the rear (note that on the rear shot, I had not yet added the adapters to the fronts).

It sounds like you guys are on the right track now with the wheel offset calculator, but your comment here could get some people in trouble. You can't just compare offsets, you have to consider the width of the wheel as well. If the wheel info in your sig is accurate, your front wheels are narrower and rear wheels wider that what the OP is looking at so the tire to body relationship would be different. Offsets are measured from the center of the wheel so the width of the wheel is important to consider.

[Swacer]

Originally Posted by LOBBS

That will be the location of the mounting surface. Since you're going an inch wider on the wheels up front the outer edge will move out 13 mm and the inner edge moves in 13 mm. Out back with the +5 difference you're moving the outer edge out 18 mm and the inner edge in 8 mm.

Yep, thats what I saw on the calculator. Now will that cause any rubber in either the front or the back?

I"m also concerned, will this make my front and back not look aligned if I went ET35 on both the front and back? Like the new front will come out further than the new back? Or vice versa?

I"m honestly in the dark.

[Spec]

Originally Posted by Swacer

Yep, thats what I saw on the calculator. Now will that cause any rubber in either the front or the back?

I"m also concerned, will this make my front and back not look aligned if I went ET35 on both the front and back? Like the new front will come out further than the new back? Or vice versa?

I"m honestly in the dark.

They should not rub.... but if you go +35 on both the fronts and the rears, but have different size rims (9" and 10"), I think it will look odd.

JR 1 - agreed... my intention is not to mislead anyone but it does take a fair amount of research to get this all right. The numbers on my sig are correct, and as mentioned - it does all depend on the type of wheel you're getting. Really, nothing will take the nervousness away when purchasing new wheels until you test mount them and are truly satisfied with the look. I've got 10.5 +20 Offsets for my rears, but as you can see - they're concave and that's why the offset is only +20. If you've got wheels that are not concave like the ones the OP wants, +35 for the rears seems about right, and again +30, +25 could work for the fronts... but I am doing a fair amount of guestimating based off my own research.

Key is to test mount without the tires because most manufacturers will not allow returns if you've put a tire on them.

Hope it all works out for you, OP!