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Old 03-17-2015, 10:55 PM   #197
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I got the ticking sound when i did mine, it went away after a bit of driving, but I've done it before and no problems.
Good to hear I'm not the only one. I thought I really screwed up at that point.
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:55 PM   #198
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Well car is running smooth. Mpg has improved slightly. Decided to keep my car running on premium from now on as well. Tha k you all for the help and this sweet write up
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Old 03-29-2015, 12:55 PM   #199
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Confused by the gas part. Do I run until just about empty then put Seafoam in then fill up on gas? Not sure why it's so confusing but just worded weird I think.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:23 AM   #200
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Confused by the gas part. Do I run until just about empty then put Seafoam in then fill up on gas? Not sure why it's so confusing but just worded weird I think.
I usually put Seafoam in at 1/2 tank and run it down to 1/4 tank then refill tank.
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:38 AM   #201
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Confused by the gas part. Do I run until just about empty then put Seafoam in then fill up on gas? Not sure why it's so confusing but just worded weird I think.
To answer your question. Yes, you wait till the tank is near empty, then half a can into the tank before filling up to full. This allows seafoam to soak the entire fuel system.
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Old 04-25-2015, 03:51 PM   #202
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So I know I'm gonna get flamed for this but I just did the seafoam and opted to take off the intake cover to really get the from deep. Anyway I was putting on the cover and one if the little bolts snapped. The rest are on fine. I torqued to like 10lbs... Should I be concerned that one bolt is missing? Its the front left bolt
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Old 04-25-2015, 03:54 PM   #203
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You aren't the first to do this. I would get an easy out and try and replace. It could leak if you don't replace.
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Old 04-25-2015, 04:41 PM   #204
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K... Also, I had a half tank, and so I did half a can in the tank.... Is it an issue that I only drove 35 miles and got the oil changed with seafoam still in the tank? I have like aa 1/4 tank left
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Old 04-25-2015, 04:43 PM   #205
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Nope the gas tank treatment won't hurt at all. Just fill up when you normally would.
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Old 04-25-2015, 05:53 PM   #206
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Cool. Thanks for the info nuttbutt
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Old 04-25-2015, 08:49 PM   #207
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http://youtu.be/kRuRg-k3aIw
Video footage of the "idle stage" of seafoaming. I added a whole can to the intake by removing the intake cover. I did half a can in the crank case. Half a can into the brake booster. And did half a can, to a half tank of gas. This was the result. And when I actually drove it... Don't kid yourself on the CLOUDS that will billow from your car. People thought my car was on fire. Needless to say, she is running better than when I bought her with 14k and no catch can.
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Last edited by omgitsmiketuck; 04-26-2015 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 04-26-2015, 09:54 AM   #208
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Reading this it appears most don't realize the wash down of using any upper induction cleaning causes scouring to the pistons and cylinder walls as well as contaminates the oil....I would NOT use this very often, and when the solvent breaks the hard deposits loose from the valves, some of the smaller particles are also forced between the piston and cylinder wall causing damage. Just look at a piston out of an engine that the owner does this and see first hand. And nothing added to the tank can do anything with todays direct injection engines. I work as a tech and the dealer ship pushes the BG and it does damage more than helps. I just cringe when I have to perform this and later see the car back in for a spun rod bearing or excessive oil consumption.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:39 PM   #209
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Good God that booster hose is a PITA to get off. I struggled for about 15 mins before giving up and doing my oil change. Does it matter now if I did my oil change before doing this step? Should I wait to do this now until I need to change my oil again?
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:02 PM   #210
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Reading this it appears most don't realize the wash down of using any upper induction cleaning causes scouring to the pistons and cylinder walls as well as contaminates the oil....I would NOT use this very often, and when the solvent breaks the hard deposits loose from the valves, some of the smaller particles are also forced between the piston and cylinder wall causing damage. Just look at a piston out of an engine that the owner does this and see first hand. And nothing added to the tank can do anything with todays direct injection engines. I work as a tech and the dealer ship pushes the BG and it does damage more than helps. I just cringe when I have to perform this and later see the car back in for a spun rod bearing or excessive oil consumption.
Some good points in this post. With today's fuels, unless the car sits for a year without being run, there is no need to run this through the fuel lines, especially on a newer model car.

I personally would never put this in the crankcase. While Seafoam is petroleum based, remember, so is gasoline, and we wouldn't put that in the crankcase. The best way to keep an engine clean is regular oil changes. Today's full synthetics are designed to resist sludging. Also ignore the oil life monitor. Change your oil at least every 5000 miles. If you do this, your internal engine will stay in great shape for a long time. An additive like this, designed to break up sludge, also breaks down the oil coating on rotating parts, this is something you really, really do not want.

Now, for the top end. Yes, this is a good preventative measure for carbon build up on the valves. If it is done from the beginning of ownership perhaps at alternating oil changes. However, if you have 20+K on the car now, you run the risk of hardened carbon pieces doing exactly as the quoted post describes. The best thing you can do at this point is to have the intake ports walnut blasted, then start using the top end cleaners as regular maintenance. But this is the only thing I would use the Seafoam, or top end cleaner for, period.
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