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Old 04-27-2015, 07:16 PM   #1
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Is the Camaro V6 M6 reliable?

Hi All,

I joined the forum to do a little research. I am in the market for a new car and the 2015 V6 with a manual is high on the list. Especially if GM ups the rebate after the Gen 6 hype gets rolling.

Anyway I am trying to figure out if these high output V6 cars spend a lot of time going back to the dealer and for what.

Please post your experiences. Would like to hear from V8 owners as well on non motor related issues.

Is a catch can a recommended part for the 2015, or has that issue been sorted out. Also the leaking master brake cylinder sounds like a common problem.

I used to have a 2001 z28 and really enjoyed the car so I am hopeful this all works out. The only issues I can remember with that car was the roof needed to be replaced and repainted due to some glue issues. It had a plastic roof, fenders too if i recall correctly. anyway..

Thanks
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Old 04-27-2015, 07:25 PM   #2
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I have a 2012 V6 automatic and I have had zero engine related issues in 24,000 miles. In fact the only issues I have had were on the Convertible top which was taken care of or issues that were self inflicted.
I have not has any problem with the master cylinder leaking on mine either.
The catch can should be installed on all direct injected engines. Not just Camaros.
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Old 04-28-2015, 12:34 AM   #3
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I recently traded in my 2012 Silver Streak 2LT Convertible that had a M-6. At time of trade in it had 35.5K miles on it and I never had an issue at all with the transmission. The only thing was in the winter time sometimes the clutch pedal would not come up all the way on its own first thing in the morning when it was very cold. But, after I helped it up the first time it was fine.

That's it. I loved my little LFX, but as soon as I saw the Green Flash it was love at first sight.......
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Old 04-28-2015, 01:37 AM   #4
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I just recently traded up from a 2010 V6 M6.

My Synergy had 96k miles when I traded it in. My dealer repairs were as follows:

Rough start one day and CEL lit up. pulled codes and it was a bunch of crazy stuf including multiple misfires. I took it in, turned out it was just a "normal" rough cold start and none of the CEL codes were real. It was a glitch with the ECU and had already been documented and a TSB issued. They reflashed my car and that was that.

P0449 code popped up. Evap canister needed replaced. It was a pretty big job both labor and cost wise because the rear cradle needed to be dropped to replace the canister. GM customer service and my dealership service department worked it out to go halfsies with me so I only ended up about $200 out of pocket. The newer cars have a revised evap system.

Front engine cover leak - common occurence on the older LLT engine, both in our Camaros and in the Caddy CTS. It's a simple repair/replace the gasket. One time the dealership did mine and the gasket rolled when they were bolting it back together and made the leak worse. They made it right and it was good to go.

If you do a fair bit of searching on here you'll see a lot of engine bearing failures and other bad stuff pop up. I was pretty paranoid about it myself - but looking back - this is the most reliable car I've owned. I hope my SS treats me half as nice as that V6!

I think you're making a solid choice with a 2015 V6 with the LFX motor. Overall the Camaro is a great car and you'll love it!

To directly answer your questions:
Install a catch can asap! Direct injection engines have no way to clean the valves through normal operation so oil build-up is a concern from day 1.
I'm seeing the master cylinder leaking on my new SS, but it seems like a silly annoyance more than a real problem. Check the threads on here regarding a) replacement of the reservoir, b) a spacer under the cap to seal it tighter, or c) a thicker gasket itself. I went with option c and we'll see how it works out.
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:56 AM   #5
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Very reliable if you break it in correctly (see Apex thread on proper break in) and after the first few hundred miles get the cheap DEXOS blend out and only run a premium full synthetic. Break it in like the owners manual and you most likely will have oil consumption issues, and run the cheap DEXOS blend and timing chain stretch may be in the future.
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Old 04-28-2015, 10:26 AM   #6
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Had my entire motor replaced at 38k miles due to a failed rod bearing that took the crank with it. It seems to be an issue with the V6 but not sure on how common it is. There are a few threads about it on this site
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Old 04-28-2015, 11:21 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by arkentect View Post
Had my entire motor replaced at 38k miles due to a failed rod bearing that took the crank with it. It seems to be an issue with the V6 but not sure on how common it is. There are a few threads about it on this site

See this more than we should, but always on engines that ran the dealer recommended DEXOS cheap blend and NOT full synthetic. Did you drain the factory fill no longer than the first 500 miles and then run synthetic after that? Let us know.
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Old 04-28-2015, 11:21 AM   #8
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The trans is known for grinding issues. Solved most of this when I switched out to the scheaffers fluid. It's going in next week for the front cover leaking oil.

The oil issue is and the fuel injector I had replaced under warranty would be the two big issues. But that it why there is a warranty. I have had it in a few times for but it's mostly documenting the transmission grind.

The transmission is a clunky one. Just know that going in, I have tried a few different fluids and found one It likes, it helps have not had a grinding issue in a good while. But with that said I would still do it again.
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Old 04-28-2015, 11:31 AM   #9
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I have a '14 1LS and have had to take the car back twice to the dealer already , its only got 10,000 miles.

Both times it was for the same thing- oil change and tire rotation.

Seriously- Its a great car.

My previous one was a '13 2LS, that I traded in. My commute was long, and I piled up miles. Again, that car was problem free when it got traded in.
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Old 04-28-2015, 11:48 AM   #10
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Catch cans are good on any car, especially a direct injection engine like the LFX.
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Old 04-28-2015, 02:59 PM   #11
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The timing chain issues were on the earlier LLT engines, I believe it was corrected on the LFX.


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Old 04-28-2015, 05:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AITI View Post
See this more than we should, but always on engines that ran the dealer recommended DEXOS cheap blend and NOT full synthetic. Did you drain the factory fill no longer than the first 500 miles and then run synthetic after that? Let us know.
no idea about the original owners break in procedure. However, for my second motor, I broke it in like I do every motor I've built or owned:

Variable acceleration for the first 500 miles with nothing above 3000-3500rpm.

After 500 increasingly more aggressive acceleration with nothing more than 4000rpm.

At 1000 miles the break in oil is removed and replaced with full synthetic.

1000-1500miles Variable acceleration up to 5000. After 1500miles Its fun time
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:02 PM   #13
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The timing chain issues were on the earlier LLT engines, I believe it was corrected on the LFX.


Timing chain design was updated, but we are still seeing excessive stretch and failures with the LFX engines as well when the cheap (don't tell my boss!) DEXOS syn blend is used instead of a good full synthetic.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkentect View Post
no idea about the original owners break in procedure. However, for my second motor, I broke it in like I do every motor I've built or owned:

Variable acceleration for the first 500 miles with nothing above 3000-3500rpm.

After 500 increasingly more aggressive acceleration with nothing more than 4000rpm.

At 1000 miles the break in oil is removed and replaced with full synthetic.

1000-1500miles Variable acceleration up to 5000. After 1500miles Its fun time
As a GM tech, the instructions that come with every replacement/crate engine has us first fill and warm up, check for leaks, etc. and then drive easy the first few miles to heat cycle. Then do a full throttle acceleration in a lower gear to 4000-5000 RPM and let engine brake down to idle, then repeat 3-4 more times, bring in and dump oil and filter and then it's good to go. Rings seated and rarely ever see them back for excessive oil consumption like so many that follow the owners manual.

Do a search here...Apex has a thread with the instructions posted direct from GM.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:42 PM   #14
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