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#1 |
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ruff ruff
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: WA State
Posts: 165
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sway bar, adding to stock 10 ss.
I am wanting to do a affordable easy to do upgrade right now, I seen a 25mm adjustable rear sway bar, would it be worth it to add just the rear for now or find a little bigger? No other modifications are on suspension except bc coilovers, cars lowered about 1 inch and on staggered 275 front 315 rear 20s. Would I need adjustable end links? I don't drive really aggressive, I don't autocross, just want better control. I know about the isolators but that will come later, just want something for now. I may do control arms if needed also, just want things I can do myself in a few hours since car is my daily driver and I have a tight budget. just put on zl1 front and sides, new wheels, coilovers, bunch of appearance mods. long tubes are going on next week.
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2010 2SS/RS, XO Verona wheels, BC coilovers oem ZL1 bumper conversion Kenwood ddx9905s, maestro, Kenwood xr1s, xr4s, kappa 1200w,subs, Kenwood xr comps and rear deck speakers, long tubes, hf cats, speed secrets tune, custom exhaust, CAI, blacked out everything.
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#2 |
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AKA "Beefcake"
Drives: 2023 ZL1 Sharkskin Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 8,572
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I would definitely go with sway bars. If you are not tracking your car, I would not worry about upgrading the endlinks at this point. BMR has a great sway bar for the price. The car definitely handles better in corners, at speed, with upgraded sways.
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#3 |
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Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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With the older style sway bars it is advisable to get rear endlink brace tabs and endlinks as the force from the stiffer bars can break the OEM endlinks and pull through the endlink tab on the LCAs.
Example: So if sticking with the FE3 style I'd recommend BMR Part # SB030, ELK009 and ELK004. On the 2010-11 GM used an inboard style sway bar that has endlink pick up points very close to the pivot points of the lower control arms. In 2012+ they changed the design to the style of the ZL1 and 1LE that have further outboard pickups closer to the spindle. Generally we'll update the lower control arms and endlinks to accommodate for the newer style and go with the newer style bars; this is a much more stable and effective setup and is not much more money than a proper FE3 setup. I would suggest going with BMR part # SB039 and our FE4 update kit; part # JDPS1005 (Includes GM ZL1/1LE front and rear endlinks, hardware and 2012+ Rear lower control arms) Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007 |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Raleigh-Durham
Posts: 1,409
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If you're really on a budget the 1LE sway bars make a noticeable difference. I bought the end links and bar from GM for about 160 shipped for the rear.
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2010 2SS
BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP) |
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro 2Ss M6 Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,013
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Id build that budget up a bit and do it all at once the right way the first time. Thats personally how i did it. I worked with JDP tyler on a smoking sale they had going at the time and ordered all of what i have now for my suspension instead of going 1 step forward and 2 steps back..
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#6 |
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ruff ruff
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: WA State
Posts: 165
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Thank you, cleared up a lot of information for me.
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2010 2SS/RS, XO Verona wheels, BC coilovers oem ZL1 bumper conversion Kenwood ddx9905s, maestro, Kenwood xr1s, xr4s, kappa 1200w,subs, Kenwood xr comps and rear deck speakers, long tubes, hf cats, speed secrets tune, custom exhaust, CAI, blacked out everything.
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