nitrous newb

[White14SS]

What would be the best starter kit for me on all stock internals? Only plan on going 50-75 shot till I get forged internals. Do I have to upgrade my injectors and pump for such a small shot? Since I have my timing advanced now running on 100 when I retard the timing for nitrous would it be better to go back to 93 or still run 100 with the pulled timing?

[CamaroCracka]

To a degree, the higher octane the better. 50-75 does not require a lot of changes. There is a whole section about this in the stickies.

You will run out of fuel before you need forged internals. You only need to retard 2 degrees for every 50 hp and there are a few different ways to do it. Could run one step colder plugs.

The way I look at nitrous, it is a lot of work for 50-75 hp, but I have a pressure gauge, RPM/WOT switch, Nano, low fuel pressure switch, AFR gauge, BAP, purge etc. You don't have to have all that but I use those pieces to know what is going on and keep it safe.

[Fast6.3]

you could go up to a 150 shot safely. youll need colder plugs retard timing and so you dont need injectors run a wet kit. Either a nozzle or plate kit will work good for you. The better octane you use the less chance you have of getting knock.For a 50 shot I would run a dry kit its simple and cheaper than a wet kit.

[Aries240SS]

Everyone says "I only want 50-75hp." Until they actually feel it and see the difference. Then it becomes, "how much will stock fuel support?"

I run 150 wet on a crammed motor with no fuel mods. TR6 plugs gapped at 30-32. Have fuel pressure and AFR gauges on the pillar, and the laptop connected to data log.

The LS3 loves nitrous. You just need to watch for detonation and make sure you don't run out of fuel for your application.

[White14SS]

Sounds good, I really do only plan on doing 50-75. Maybe an occasional 100 shot. So correct me if I'm wrong if I go with a wet it doesn't distribute the nitrous as evenly as dry and I won't need to upgrade injectors or fuel pump. If I go dry it distributes the nitrous more evenly but then I would need to upgrade the injectors and pump. Either way I go with the ngk 1 step colder. Then I also want to get the remote bottle opener and the heater which you only turn on when the bottle is open and you want to keep it at 1500 psi. So if I do it, it has to be armed plus car wot correct? So I could have it off to where I can go wot without spraying, but my car will be slower than it is now if I go wot without spraying because the timing will always be pulled either way.

[CamaroCracka]

I never heard of a dry kit distributing nitrous better. Plates tend to distribute better over nozzles, but that has nothing to do with wet or dry.

Optimal pressure to spray nitrous is 900-1050. You can use a heater or a Nano type system to manage bottle pressures.

If you spray a 75 shot wet or dry you don't need to increase your fuelling capabilities, but if you go much more than that, you will need a BAP or bigger fuel pump (I use a Zl1 pump and BAP, but that is more than I need at my current power level). I also picked them up cheap. If you decide to spray a big shot it may be better to just switch straight to a dual pump at that point since a BAP and ZL1 pump can run almost $600 new.

A 50hp dry kit does not need new injectors, but as with anything dealing with nitrous, it's all in the tune.

I retard my timing using a couple relays and a couple resisters on the IATS circuit. My tuner adjusted the fuel tables so it retards 8 degrees when it sees an IAT of -40. That only happens when the N20 is spraying. Some guys change the timing when they arm the nitrous if that makes you feel better. You could also get a flash tool and have your tuner create a second tune with more retard for when you are spraying, and you would just flash the tune on your car before you race and flash it back when you are done. You don't want to be running around with your timing retarded more than necessary all the time when you rarely use nitrous.

Yes, you want the circuit to have an arming switch and some sort of trigger. I use a WOT/RPM switch (Lingenfelter RPM-3 now and switching to the NOS to add a second stage). Lots of guys just use a little microswitch that triggers at WOT.

1 stage colder plug for every 75 hp.

[White14SS]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

I never heard of a dry kit distributing nitrous better. Plates tend to distribute better over nozzles, but that has nothing to do with wet or dry.

Optimal pressure to spray nitrous is 900-1050. You can use a heater or a Nano type system to manage bottle pressures.

If you spray a 75 shot wet or dry you don't need to increase your fuelling capabilities, but if you go much more than that, you will need a BAP or bigger fuel pump (I use a Zl1 pump and BAP, but that is more than I need at my current power level). I also picked them up cheap. If you decide to spray a big shot it may be better to just switch straight to a dual pump at that point since a BAP and ZL1 pump can run almost $600 new.

A 50hp dry kit does not need new injectors, but as with anything dealing with nitrous, it's all in the tune.

I retard my timing using a couple relays and a couple resisters on the IATS circuit. My tuner adjusted the fuel tables so it retards 8 degrees when it sees an IAT of -40. That only happens when the N20 is spraying. Some guys change the timing when they arm the nitrous if that makes you feel better. You could also get a flash tool and have your tuner create a second tune with more retard for when you are spraying, and you would just flash the tune on your car before you race and flash it back when you are done. You don't want to be running around with your timing retarded more than necessary all the time when you rarely use nitrous.

Yes, you want the circuit to have an arming switch and some sort of trigger. I use a WOT/RPM switch (Lingenfelter RPM-3 now and switching to the NOS to add a second stage). Lots of guys just use a little microswitch that triggers at WOT.

1 stage colder plug for every 75 hp.

Thanks, very helpful information. So it looks like I'm good on the stock fuel pump for now. So if I go with a wet plate 50-75 am I still good on stock injectors? I plan on topping out at a 100 shot which would then require new injectors and pump on a wet plate system right? How about the lsa injectors and zl1 pump? 100 shot still just 1 step colder right?

[CamaroCracka]

Wet systems don't require you to change injectors. I run a 200 shot on stock injectors.

If you go over a 100 shot, or add power another way, e.g. big cam, you will want a way to increase the fuel supply. There are several ways to do that including the zl1 pump you mentioned. You can also run a BAP or dedicated fuel supply.

With a 100 shot you may require a plug that is two steps colder depending on octane, tune, etc. The best thing to do, is learn how to read plugs so you know if the tips are getting too hot and you need a colder plug. Can you get a way with one step colder at 100, probably, but do you want your engine depending on probably?

[White14SS]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

Wet systems don't require you to change injectors. I run a 200 shot on stock injectors.

If you go over a 100 shot, or add power another way, e.g. big cam, you will want a way to increase the fuel supply. There are several ways to do that including the zl1 pump you mentioned. You can also run a BAP or dedicated fuel supply.

With a 100 shot you may require a plug that is two steps colder depending on octane, tune, etc. The best thing to do, is learn how to read plugs so you know if the tips are getting too hot and you need a colder plug. Can you get a way with one step colder at 100, probably, but do you want your engine depending on probably?

Thanks for the help. I think I'm just gonna go ahead and get the zl1 pump because I'm gonna need it eventually plus I found it for 289 with free shipping which is pretty damn good plus now that I know I don't need injectors. I was looking at the zex wet plate system I like that it is listed specifically for 2010 and up v8 camaro. So what would be the negative if I just go with the 2 step colder now so it's ready for the 100 shot?

[flyer08]

Check out nitrous outlet. They can answer your questions and get you a proper setup

[CamaroCracka]

Cold plugs get a little worse gas mileage than the stock plugs and have a higher tendency to foul. I drive with two steps colder plugs in my car and truck without any issues. However, you want to get them hot every once in a while, i.e. run the nitrous, to get them hot so they clean off and don't foul.

I'm not familiar with the specific Zex kit you mentioned. I know NO makes a really clean, factory looking kit for GenVs. I run an NX kit with fuel lines I made myself to clean up the look. It has the old Parker style solenoids like the NO kit uses. I also use NOS Hi-Flo bottles and opener. These are the exact same parts I run my mud truck so I don't have to keep two sets of spare parts.

From what I understand almost any kit will flow 150-200 hp worth of N2O, but if you want to go over that, you need to look for higher flowing solenoids, perhaps a -6 line to the bottle and the bottle valve has to be capable of flowing over 250hp worth of N2O.

There is also a reliability issue. You don't want your N2O solenoid to get stuck open. NO and NX make some of the best solenoids out there. NOS higher end stuff is good too and NOS has the best bottles IMO.

[White14SS]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

Cold plugs get a little worse gas mileage than the stock plugs and have a higher tendency to foul. I drive with two steps colder plugs in my car and truck without any issues. However, you want to get them hot every once in a while, i.e. run the nitrous, to get them hot so they clean off and don't foul.

I'm not familiar with the specific Zex kit you mentioned. I know NO makes a really clean, factory looking kit for GenVs. I run an NX kit with fuel lines I made myself to clean up the look. It has the old Parker style solenoids like the NO kit uses. I also use NOS Hi-Flo bottles and opener. These are the exact same parts I run my mud truck so I don't have to keep two sets of spare parts.

From what I understand almost any kit will flow 150-200 hp worth of N2O, but if you want to go over that, you need to look for higher flowing solenoids, perhaps a -6 line to the bottle and the bottle valve has to be capable of flowing over 250hp worth of N2O.

There is also a reliability issue. You don't want your N2O solenoid to get stuck open. NO and NX make some of the best solenoids out there. NOS higher end stuff is good too and NOS has the best bottles IMO.

Right on, thanks for all the help.

[hugoq_1le]

Im running e85 , stock injectors, br7ef non projected plugs , fpcm from adm , tune , 100 shot everything has been working fine so far

[BlownChevy]

We have had great luck with the Nitrous Outlet kit.

Nitrous Outlet Kit