Dropping the rear cradle

[xc_SS/RS]

Any tips? I'm going to be installing subframe inserts this weekend and it will be my first time dropping the rear end on a car. I'm going to follow the BMR instructions, but I was looking for any tips/pointers on dropping the cradle, removing the washers etc.

Do I need to disconnect the shocks from the LCA's?

[Ventmaster]

It's been awhile and it requires some effort, but this is a mod worth doing.

No you don't need to disconnect the shocks. I didn't mess with the exhaust or any of the other stuff I'm seeing in the BMR instructs. Just jack up the rear of the car under the steel cage at the back end of the differential and place the car on jack stands. Keep the jack in place and un-weight the rear subframe without re-lifting the car.

Remove one of the bushing bolts just to see how long it is, then put it a dozen turns back in. Decide if you want to do front and then back bushings, or left side then right side. I think I did front then back. So I started with the 2 back bolts a dozen turns in.

Then I removed the 2 front bolts and used the "2 hammer" process. Use 2 claw hammers, find some purchase under either side of the washers and pull... and pull. If I remember right, the 2 fronts were the toughest.
Once you've remove the washers, lower the subframe with the jack until you can slip in the inserts top and bottom. I think I had to drop the front bolts a few more turns to make it. Don't thread them out!

Then jack the subframe back up and repeat for the back bolts. There are pins in the frame to help re-align things when it's time to finish.

Good luck and have fun!

[xc_SS/RS]

Ended up dropping the whole thing which made putting the inserts super easy. Removed the lower shock Mount and man what a pain that was. Also the front washers were seriously on there. Heated them up really good with a torch and then they popped off with two pry bars. Compared to the front if you looked at the rear washers they would fall off.

We snapped an exhaust clamp bolt though as we removed the mufflers just in case they would have gotten in the way. Still haven't driven it but holy crap the stock bushings are very soft.

[Ventmaster]

You'll be glad you did it (even though I told you not to do all that other stuff!) It tightens up the rear end of the 2010's (chevy improved the subframe bushings in later models) the most of all.

BMR is usually the "go-to" spot for great instructions, I'm not sure why they include so many steps in this procedure.

[Nighthawk89]

I can't comment on the inserts but the solid subframe bushings play a huge role in planting my power.. Great upgrade forsure. Just hope you never wanna upgrade your pump.. You don't HAVE to drop your cradle to upgrade it but it would be a heck of a lot easier with it dropped. lol

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

You'll be glad you did it (even though I told you not to do all that other stuff!) It tightens up the rear end of the 2010's (chevy improved the subframe bushings in later models) the most of all.

BMR is usually the "go-to" spot for great instructions, I'm not sure why they include so many steps in this procedure.

Yeah those were the instructions I used for it. Though I could not find the ABS connector before dropping the rear but I don't think anything got messed up from not disconnecting it. Its a fantastic upgrade, almost feels like the rear has too much grip now. High speed turns are fantastically planted now. The stock bushings I could move the ferule (metal thingy?) in the bushing with very little effort.

Originally Posted by Nighthawk89

I can't comment on the inserts but the solid subframe bushings play a huge role in planting my power.. Great upgrade forsure. Just hope you never wanna upgrade your pump.. You don't HAVE to drop your cradle to upgrade it but it would be a heck of a lot easier with it dropped. lol

Yeah I feel like the car is putting much more power to the ground now and when doing hard launches it doesn't feel like I'm riding on top of the rear end anymore if you can understand that one lol much more connected. Eventually when I start pushing more power I will do full bushings but for now the prothane inserts are the best $30 I've ever spent.

I've got the radius rod bushing inserts coming Monday and I'm excited to get more feeling/response from the front end.

[Ventmaster]

Yes the inserts will be fine up to 500hp- then you want to go full or solid bushing for the subframe.

If you haven't done sway bars yet, that is your next step! Amazing difference when you upgrade the rear in particular.

If you're not looking to take off and replace those LCA's in the near future, drop me a PM. I've got a Pfadt rear racing sway that will give a roll stiffness rating of 5.8 as compared to Chevy's FE4 rear bar (standard on SS's since 2012) with just 4.3.

It will bolt right into your 2010 and won't require another alignment or any other parts. If stock, your car now has a rating of 0.7

Just let me know and I'll make you a very good deal-

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

BMR is usually the "go-to" spot for great instructions, I'm not sure why they include so many steps in this procedure.

Gotta cover all the bases!

[xc_SS/RS]

I actually just upgraded to ZL1 sway bars front and rear and its fantastic over the stock components. I will be moving to full bushings further down the line but for now this is perfect. Feels much better and so much more planted. Next suspension mod I will most likely end up doing is changing out the stock arms for aftermarket pieces but so far there's been no wheel hop which is nice.