I need a little suspension advice.

[mar10]

I'm looking to upgrade my suspension on my 2010 SS manual. My car makes around 450 hp to the wheels. Mods are in my signature but the suspension is stock. Wheels are also stock but I'm planning on getting a pair of 18" vette reproduction rims and putting drag radials on them for the drag strip.

I don't daily drive my car but I do drive it a lot, occasionally to work. Or sometimes I'll take the family out in it. I don't mind the ride getting a little rougher but I don't want it to feel like I'm ridding in a wagon all the time.

I occasionally do track days maybe four times a year or so. I go to the local drag strip maybe 8 times a year for test and tunes but I don't normally compete in any actual racing just me trying to improve my times. I also do some spirited runs up the local mountain roads.

I'm planning on doing the BRM level 1 handling package with sway bars and a 1" drop. I was wondering if I should go with different springs than what comes with the kit? I've read that the camaro is able to lower upto 1.5" on otherwise stock suspension. Is there much benifit to lowering 1" or 1.25" or 1.5"? What spring rate is best for our camaros? I know the higher the spring rate the stiffer the spring but at what point does it become too stiff? Will lowering the car affect the sizes of drag radials I can run? (I know they need to be within .5 of stock tire height). But if I'm lowered will I have to run more narrow tires than if im at stock height?

I'm also thinking about adding BMR trailing arms also. Then later down the road I plan on adding new parts to continue improving the whole system. Is it necessary to get the adjustable ones?

[hammdo]

When you tighten things up, ride does get stiffer... TRUST ME ;o)

I did 1" springs (BMR) FE4 LCA's (rear) and BMR front and rear sway bars. I also did BMR toe rods (adjustable), trailing arms (adjustable)/bushings, cradle bushing inserts (solids coming), radius arm bushings, Hotchkis Max Chassis, and 1LE struts and shocks -- THOSE made the ride stiffer when you hit bumps.

Cradle bushings (inserts are ok -- solids are better), and non-adjustable toe and trailing arms are fine. Trailing arm bushings are a must. That will get you in the ballpark for sure.

I'd then consider the FE4 upgrade when doing the trailing arms/toe rods as you'll be able to get the much improved sway bars...

Upgraded Front sway bars (if keeping the stock shocks) will require the FE4 sway bar links (and drilling out the hole to fit them).

I have more details and pics on my build thread (first page) if you're curious (last page I believe shows the Hotchkis install)...

Tyler from JDP helped me a lot (I believe its now JDP Sales is his C5 name)...

Hope that helps!

-Don

[mar10]

I'm not worried if it gets stiff. I just don't want it to have a rough uncomfortable ride.

[hammdo]

The 1LE struts/shocks would roughen up the drive. The trailing arms/ bushings and toe rods would help tighten up the looseness. If you do sway bars, I would get the adjustable ones so you adjust how you want to drive it (with the fe4 rear lower control arms).

Solids cradle bushings may not be needed so the inserts would be easier to install and still help with wheel hop.

Tyler from JDP is a great source of help...

Best of luck!

-Don

[mar10]

Thanks for the info.

[hrpiii]

1" drop is fine, 1.25" drops looks great on these cars, 1.5" I probably would not do. That is just a bit much, too firm of ride, more chance of tire hitting fender depending on rims/tire setup.

[mar10]

Is the only benifit of doing a 1.25" drop over a 1" looks or is there a performance advantage as well?

[woodside783]

put some better bushings all way around and it will help a lot. do the fe4 upgrade will help with better traction as well

[hammdo]

Going too low changes geometry, and will likely effect bump steer, which means upgraded toe rod ends in the front are something to keep in mind.

-Don

[Bigmike ss]

I went with the hotchiks 1" lower spring on stock SS struts.
the ride got stiffer but the car feels great over all handles better to.
also when you hit it the car goes .

[hrpiii]

Originally Posted by mar10

Is the only benifit of doing a 1.25" drop over a 1" looks or is there a performance advantage as well?

if you were running 150 mph on an open track, the .25" will help with some down force. But mainly will be for looks.

[BMR Sales]

On the Trailing Arms, you won't need the Adjustables as you are lowering the car and our TCA028's are made a little shorter to correct your Camber when you lower the car