Using Mobil1 15w50 On the Street During Warm Weather - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Quasimofo · 08-04-2015, 05:04 PM

I really would have expected the temp to go higher considering the traffic and outside temps. Always been one for frequent oil changes in cars that get used for a daily slog; and I try and get a few hundred highway miles on per month too.

Guessing the dry sump makes warm ups take a bit longer on this; could be worse, could be an air cooled Porsche I suppose. 4 gallons of oil!

ZapperZ · 08-04-2015, 05:13 PM

Low oil temps as a result will leave you with milky condensate under valve covers.
Also good way to to be sure oil is up to temp to burn off condensate as before mentioned.
I'm really looking for more examples from LS7 Z/28 owners.

ZapperZ · 08-04-2015, 05:19 PM

Did the 1500 mile fluid change with M1 5w30 today.
My engine builder suggests to switch over to Joe Gibb's motor oil.
Going to stick with the Dextros M1 product until warranty runs out.

X25 · 08-04-2015, 05:46 PM

I don't own a Z/28, but I have owned two C6 Z06s: 2006 and 2013. 2006 had the air-cooled oil cooler, and frequently stayed around 180 degrees or so in terms of oil temps during street driving. The 2013 model had the water-to-oil cooler like ZR1 (and all Gen 5 V8 Camaros), and that rather kept the oil temp in low 200s.

At the track, I used to hit 270 degrees F or so with the 2006 model, and hit about 285 degrees F with the 2013. I ended up replacing my radiator with the Z07 radiator (ZR1 radiator sans extra ports that ZR1 uses), and it kept the oil temp below 280 degrees F. C6 Z06 has a much better air ducting for its radiators, though, which helps in cooling. I have had worse experience with my Camaro in terms of its reaction to cooling mods.

By the way, I remember someone (LG Motorsports?) stating that the engine oil temp sender is at the bottom of the dry sump, which also shows lower temps than the wet-sump siblings since it's a relatively cooler place.

Quasimofo · 08-04-2015, 05:49 PM

Yea I have def. seen the milky crap on the dipstick of my ex RX8's. No problem giving cars the old italian tuneup when necessary, so it is good to know what this engine expects.
Especially because I've got a Toyota thats going to want a V8 soon, and it'd be good to know everything about the LS7.

ZapperZ · 08-04-2015, 06:43 PM

Yes understanding the position of the oil temp sender needs to be taken into consideration when running hard with high *
I've had engines that would normally run 210* all day long but wide open throttle could hit 285*

Stephen12ZL1 · 08-06-2015, 08:41 AM

What about the Dominator series Amsoil 15w50?

Stephen12ZL1 · 08-06-2015, 08:43 AM

.

Z28LS7 · 08-06-2015, 01:19 PM

I use a mix of Mobil1 Racing 0W-50 and Mobil1 15W-50.

ZapperZ · 08-06-2015, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

What about the Dominator series Amsoil 15w50?

Is it SN rated?
I have an older stock buildup of M1 15w50 but it's not SN rated so I'm concerned about warranty issues using it.
Looked at Wally World yesterday and noticed M1 15w50 is SN .

wakespeak · 08-06-2015, 03:57 PM

I use this street and track:

Pennzoil Ultra Euro L. This is the European spec (not the American GF-5) Pennzoil Platinum. HTHS of 3.68 and you get the start up pumpability of a 5w- oil. HTHS is a measure of film strength at high temperatures, so that is what I use. There are very few 30's at that level. Mobil 1 5w-30 is 3.1. Mobil 1 0w-40 is 3.8. Mobil1 15w-50 is 4.5.

Despite the roller cam, I still think quick lubrication at start up is important, so I would change out the 15w-50 unless you are in the middle of summer. Your marine engines beat up oil with high output running and fuel dilution, so the heavier oils without a lot of viscosity range keeps breakdown minimized. Probably the right tradeoff vs startup protection. I use 15w-40 in our SBC boat.

The other negative side affects of heavier oil are less heat transfer and fluid friction, which causes (some) heat. In my experience the engine is more sluggish until the oil is really hot.

SL vs SN means Zinc levels. Higher zinc and your catalytic converters may diminish in effectiveness. However this is true IMO for cars burning oil or that have lousy PCV systems. If you go heavier than a 30 but not sure about really needing a 50, I think Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 is their best oil (rated also SL for gasoline engines). I have used it in our Land Rover for 134K miles and passes emissions just fine. No oil use either. Zinc levels are pretty low anyway these days even for SL oils.

Also keep in mind that the EPA I think still requires manufacturers to ONLY recommend the oil viscosity used in EPA certification testing. Therefore we get the blanket 5w-30 for all temps and "track only" for 15w-50 in the manual.

ZapperZ · 08-06-2015, 04:16 PM

"Also keep in mind that the EPA I think still requires manufacturers to ONLY recommend the oil viscosity used in EPA certification testing. Therefore we get the blanket 5w-30 for all temps and "track only" for 15w-50 in the manual."

And then the General will want to know what oil was used and proof of receipt for warranty work.
Another stickler GM might use is if the oil is DEXTROS or not?
What I'm getting at is any excuse available can be used to null a warranty.
I've been there before.
No matter what engine I have I don't keep lubricant in use very long.

08-04-2015, 05:46 PM	#18
X25 Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 3,056	I don't own a Z/28, but I have owned two C6 Z06s: 2006 and 2013. 2006 had the air-cooled oil cooler, and frequently stayed around 180 degrees or so in terms of oil temps during street driving. The 2013 model had the water-to-oil cooler like ZR1 (and all Gen 5 V8 Camaros), and that rather kept the oil temp in low 200s. At the track, I used to hit 270 degrees F or so with the 2006 model, and hit about 285 degrees F with the 2013. I ended up replacing my radiator with the Z07 radiator (ZR1 radiator sans extra ports that ZR1 uses), and it kept the oil temp below 280 degrees F. C6 Z06 has a much better air ducting for its radiators, though, which helps in cooling. I have had worse experience with my Camaro in terms of its reaction to cooling mods. By the way, I remember someone (LG Motorsports?) stating that the engine oil temp sender is at the bottom of the dry sump, which also shows lower temps than the wet-sump siblings since it's a relatively cooler place. __________________ '16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread) '14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD

08-06-2015, 08:41 AM	#21
Stephen12ZL1 Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mechanicsville, VA Posts: 6,816	What about the Dominator series Amsoil 15w50? __________________ '21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60' '17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)

08-06-2015, 08:43 AM	#22
Stephen12ZL1 Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mechanicsville, VA Posts: 6,816	. Attached Images __________________ '21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60' '17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)

08-06-2015, 03:57 PM	#25
wakespeak Drives: 2020 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,340	I use this street and track: Pennzoil Ultra Euro L. This is the European spec (not the American GF-5) Pennzoil Platinum. HTHS of 3.68 and you get the start up pumpability of a 5w- oil. HTHS is a measure of film strength at high temperatures, so that is what I use. There are very few 30's at that level. Mobil 1 5w-30 is 3.1. Mobil 1 0w-40 is 3.8. Mobil1 15w-50 is 4.5. Despite the roller cam, I still think quick lubrication at start up is important, so I would change out the 15w-50 unless you are in the middle of summer. Your marine engines beat up oil with high output running and fuel dilution, so the heavier oils without a lot of viscosity range keeps breakdown minimized. Probably the right tradeoff vs startup protection. I use 15w-40 in our SBC boat. The other negative side affects of heavier oil are less heat transfer and fluid friction, which causes (some) heat. In my experience the engine is more sluggish until the oil is really hot. SL vs SN means Zinc levels. Higher zinc and your catalytic converters may diminish in effectiveness. However this is true IMO for cars burning oil or that have lousy PCV systems. If you go heavier than a 30 but not sure about really needing a 50, I think Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 is their best oil (rated also SL for gasoline engines). I have used it in our Land Rover for 134K miles and passes emissions just fine. No oil use either. Zinc levels are pretty low anyway these days even for SL oils. Also keep in mind that the EPA I think still requires manufacturers to ONLY recommend the oil viscosity used in EPA certification testing. Therefore we get the blanket 5w-30 for all temps and "track only" for 15w-50 in the manual. __________________ 2020 ZL1 1LE [Moroso SC Expansion Tank, otherwise stock] Last edited by wakespeak; 08-06-2015 at 04:09 PM.

08-04-2015, 05:04 PM	#15
Quasimofo Drives: 2015 Z/28 Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Chalfont, PA Posts: 67	I really would have expected the temp to go higher considering the traffic and outside temps. Always been one for frequent oil changes in cars that get used for a daily slog; and I try and get a few hundred highway miles on per month too. Guessing the dry sump makes warm ups take a bit longer on this; could be worse, could be an air cooled Porsche I suppose. 4 gallons of oil!

08-04-2015, 05:13 PM	#16
ZapperZ Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE 2022 GMC AT4 HD Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Valparaiso,Indiana Posts: 287	Low oil temps as a result will leave you with milky condensate under valve covers. Also good way to to be sure oil is up to temp to burn off condensate as before mentioned. I'm really looking for more examples from LS7 Z/28 owners.

08-04-2015, 05:19 PM	#17
ZapperZ Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE 2022 GMC AT4 HD Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Valparaiso,Indiana Posts: 287	Did the 1500 mile fluid change with M1 5w30 today. My engine builder suggests to switch over to Joe Gibb's motor oil. Going to stick with the Dextros M1 product until warranty runs out.

08-04-2015, 05:49 PM	#19
Quasimofo Drives: 2015 Z/28 Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Chalfont, PA Posts: 67	Yea I have def. seen the milky crap on the dipstick of my ex RX8's. No problem giving cars the old italian tuneup when necessary, so it is good to know what this engine expects. Especially because I've got a Toyota thats going to want a V8 soon, and it'd be good to know everything about the LS7.

08-04-2015, 06:43 PM	#20
ZapperZ Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE 2022 GMC AT4 HD Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Valparaiso,Indiana Posts: 287	Yes understanding the position of the oil temp sender needs to be taken into consideration when running hard with high * I've had engines that would normally run 210* all day long but wide open throttle could hit 285*

08-06-2015, 01:19 PM	#23
Z28LS7 Driver's Club AZ Drives: '14 HPE Z/28, '16 2SS convertible Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: AZ Posts: 42	I use a mix of Mobil1 Racing 0W-50 and Mobil1 15W-50.

08-06-2015, 04:16 PM	#26
ZapperZ Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE 2022 GMC AT4 HD Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Valparaiso,Indiana Posts: 287	"Also keep in mind that the EPA I think still requires manufacturers to ONLY recommend the oil viscosity used in EPA certification testing. Therefore we get the blanket 5w-30 for all temps and "track only" for 15w-50 in the manual." And then the General will want to know what oil was used and proof of receipt for warranty work. Another stickler GM might use is if the oil is DEXTROS or not? What I'm getting at is any excuse available can be used to null a warranty. I've been there before. No matter what engine I have I don't keep lubricant in use very long.