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Old 08-31-2015, 09:19 AM   #15
Apex Motorsports
 
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Originally Posted by thebigbankhank View Post
yall are good... im over here eating popcorn, reading and learning! Why go with the Solid bushings over the polyurethane ones? I've got an idea why but im curious to hear the before and after from a user SkunkJunk42, I was in Austin last week. There arent many people in Waco that are doing much modding to chasis on gen 5s, mainly all performance under the hood stuff or cosmetic mods.
The entire rear suspension and drive train bolts to the cradle which is then bolted to the car. The rear cradle bushings are literally the foundation of the rear of the car. The problem is that the soft rubber bushing move a lot causing several issues that all lead to reduced traction and control. Poly bushings reduce the movement but it is still there. Solid completely eliminates the movement. Typically with bushings you wouldn't go solid on a street application due to the increase noise, vibration, and harmonics (NVH, aka: noise) the transmit into the car. However, you can get away with full solid on the rear cradle and still be completely comfortable and streetable.
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:22 PM   #16
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Do the SS springs provide an advantage other than the slight drop? And sorry for the thread hack OP, maybe some of this will help bring to light more answers for you anyhow...
By lowering your Center of Gravity, you will improve performance!
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:24 PM   #17
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thebigbankhank, how many miles are on your new to you Camaro?
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:56 AM   #18
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35k, she's a 2010, just got new wheels and eagle f1 g2s, she's got vararam and muffler delete and a VTC coming then tune. Not sure how she's going to handle on the wider wheels but I've driven and ridden in a zl1 and that thing was smooth and quick. She almost got a for sale sign on her for a zl1 but.... Considering the price and what I've paid for mine... I'll mod it!! #builtnotbought
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:43 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by thebigbankhank View Post
35k, she's a 2010, just got new wheels and eagle f1 g2s, she's got vararam and muffler delete and a VTC coming then tune. Not sure how she's going to handle on the wider wheels but I've driven and ridden in a zl1 and that thing was smooth and quick. She almost got a for sale sign on her for a zl1 but.... Considering the price and what I've paid for mine... I'll mod it!! #builtnotbought
Cool. The new wheels are 1LE type, square setup?
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Old 09-02-2015, 11:08 AM   #20
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z28 replicas from 20 in staggered. 11 rear 10 front. 285/35 front and 305/35 rears.
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Old 09-08-2015, 05:14 PM   #21
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staggered, sitting way too high for my liking... lol
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Old 09-08-2015, 05:48 PM   #22
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4x4 mode! Easily fixed though.
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:42 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by thebigbankhank View Post
35k, she's a 2010, just got new wheels and eagle f1 g2s, she's got vararam and muffler delete and a VTC coming then tune. Not sure how she's going to handle on the wider wheels but I've driven and ridden in a zl1 and that thing was smooth and quick. She almost got a for sale sign on her for a zl1 but.... Considering the price and what I've paid for mine... I'll mod it!! #builtnotbought
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebigbankhank View Post
z28 replicas from 20 in staggered. 11 rear 10 front. 285/35 front and 305/35 rears.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebigbankhank View Post
staggered, sitting way too high for my liking... lol
We can do this under your $5k budget and do it very well.

We'll use the RideTech Level II coilovers, JPSS Black Magic 32mm rear bar, Billet Radius Bushings, Caster Locks and Camber Bolt Kit. We'll add GM rear lower control arms and 1LE/ZL1/Z/28 toe inks. You'll run circles around the guys that run brand x bits and you don't need no stinkin chassis braces!
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