How to install air-to-oil engine oil cooler

[X25]

I will update the first post.

From my build thread:

Originally Posted by X25

The oil cooler update:

Here is my older oil cooler. Some of the issues: The ports are at the side, it is install high up (missing the better flow down low).


The new cooler core is narrower, but much taller, and now spans the whole opening!


It actually goes down lower than the condenser!


I tried to do my best to make it as parallel to the condenser as possible.


Finished!


It actually looks a lot like a radiator : )



Now the numbers
I conducted my usual stress test with the new oil cooler. I basically drive on the highway, varying the engine speed between 4500 - 5500 RPM at whatever gear the speed limits dictate. With my older set-up, this creeps the oil temps to about 260 degrees F. With the new set-up, I could not exceed 233 degrees F! The coolant temps also stayed at or below 200 degrees. It would be an understatement to say that I'm excited. Obviously, I'll need to go to track and try it out to make sure I finally have a car that will not overheat

[jacksaigon]

Awesome write-up. Subscribed.
Thanks for your pointers, I now got the picture of what is on the way.

[AG1LE]

Originally Posted by X25

[*]What I would do if I were to do it again: EGM-106 Oil cooler adapter with no thermostat for MAX flow, and FSM-185 high flow thermostat (installed on the hoses).

Thanks again for sharing these details - very helpful!

Since you spent some time routing hoses to/from/around the adapter, maybe you can help me with a question. Due to space limitations above the oil filter (I have LT headers), how far away from the oil cooler adapter (no thermostat) do you think I would have to place the separate high flow thermostat? That thermostat isn't a low-profile piece. I would want to connect the thermostat as closely to the adapter as possible, but it seems space is very limited.

I'm also concerned about the additional connections (more chances for failure) associated with a separate adapter + thermostat versus the one-piece adapter/thermostat.

[X25]

Originally Posted by AG1LE

Thanks again for sharing these details - very helpful!

Since you spent some time routing hoses to/from/around the adapter, maybe you can help me with a question. Due to space limitations above the oil filter (I have LT headers), how far away from the oil cooler adapter (no thermostat) do you think I would have to place the separate high flow thermostat? That thermostat isn't a low-profile piece. I would want to connect the thermostat as closely to the adapter as possible, but it seems space is very limited.

I'm also concerned about the additional connections (more chances for failure) associated with a separate adapter + thermostat versus the one-piece adapter/thermostat.

I actually already have a sensor manifold on the line. I installed it about 6" after the adapter, before the power steering. There's no interference with header at that point, but you need to measure carefully since the connectors are huge and don't flex like the hose. If you went with -10 AN, it'd be even easier.

About leak: if done properly, connectors never leak, at least in my experience. The problem area is the oil cooler adapter. I thought I was going to break those little bolts in order to keep it from leaking.

[AG1LE]

Originally Posted by X25

I actually already have a sensor manifold on the line. I installed it about 6" after the adapter, before the power steering. There's no interference with header at that point, but you need to measure carefully since the connectors are huge and don't flex like the hose. If you went with -10 AN, it'd be even easier.

About leak: if done properly, connectors never leak, at least in my experience. The problem area is the oil cooler adapter. I thought I was going to break those little bolts in order to keep it from leaking.

Great, I'll give it a shot - I'm sure I'll spend plenty of time test fitting since I've never done anything like this before.

I'm planning to use an oil filter sandwich plate for oil temp and pressure sensors, so I don't have to worry about adapter + thermostat + sensor manifold.

[CAP'N B]

Thanx for the write up, I just did my oil cooler and I needed the plug and my dealer could not figure out which one it was, I looked up this post and there was the plug part number, I got it to my dealer and he had one in stock. This helped me so much. THANX!!!

[X25]

Originally Posted by CAP'N B

Thanx for the write up, I just did my oil cooler and I needed the plug and my dealer could not figure out which one it was, I looked up this post and there was the plug part number, I got it to my dealer and he had one in stock. This helped me so much. THANX!!!

Glad to hear, and my pleasure! : ))

[wernergmhtp]

Originally Posted by X25

I will update the first post.

From my build thread:

X25, I see an update on street temps but not one on track temps (unless I am missing something). Did you ever make it to the track for new results?

[X25]

Originally Posted by wernergmhtp

X25, I see an update on street temps but not one on track temps (unless I am missing something). Did you ever make it to the track for new results?

Yes, I did; my apologies for not updating. I did push the car as much as I can at the track, and it seems to have stabilized at 270s in hot temps, and 260s in lower ambient temps. FYI, hot ambient temps were around 85 degrees, so your mileage might vary if you see 100s regularly in your area. There were also other members going with the dual oil cooler core setup, and the results were similar, in 270s. These temps are perfectly fine for the engine. I also got the oil samples tested after track days(Mobil 1 5W-30 EP), and per the result, oil was like new

Here is a video from one of my last attempts. It's a bit hard to read, but the oil temp gauge is in front of the shifter.

[X25]

In other news:
From my build thread:

Originally Posted by X25

.....
2. Oil cooler adapter bolts:
I wanted to tighten the oil cooler adapter bolts while the headers were out, and broke one of them! Thankfully, it was easy to remove the rest of the bolt from the block, or else I don't know what I could even do. I had two more bolts that I've used before during my experiments, but realized these bolts were all stretched!

Take a close look at the bolts. The part of the thread that stays in the engine block is wider than the thread that stays by the oil cooler adapter. These bolts are certainly not up to task. I will talk to Michael @ ImprovedRacing and see if he has better bolts for the job, and will also look it up at my local store (Tacoma Screw) for a better alternative.

And the resolution:

Originally Posted by X25

As I mentioned before, I told Michael @ ImprovedRacing about my experience with the bolts, and he got back to me with great information. In short, they take this feedback seriously, and will change the bolts that they use in their kits!

I already sourced the new bolts from my local store: Grade 12.9 M6x25mm @1.00mm thread. The O-rings also need to be replaced each time the adapter is removed. They are 16mm, 1.5mm thick, Viton O-rings.

Michael said the torque rating for these bolts (provided by GM) is a ridiculously-low 106 in-lb / 8.8 ft-lb. In GM's case, the oil cooler adapter is supported by 10 more bolts, so these bolts are only supposed to seal the oil ports; no big deal. In our case, though, they need to support the weight/tension of hoses, the adapter itself, the sensors on it, etc. I wonder if I should stop at 10 lb.ft, or if I should try 15 lb.ft. If it strips, I'm in BIG TROUBLE, but would be nice to know if 15 lb.ft is OK, (and I think it will be).

I will update the first post about the bolts. The new ones are black (not stainless steel), and are much stronger. If you have shiny bolts, you should consider replacing them next time you touch the oil cooler adapter for any reason. The replacement bolts were easy to source locally, but I had to order the O-rings (50-pack; O-Ring, Viton, 16mm ID; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00).

[wernergmhtp]

Originally Posted by X25

Yes, I did; my apologies for not updating. I did push the car as much as I can at the track, and it seems to have stabilized at 270s in hot temps, and 260s in lower ambient temps. FYI, hot ambient temps were around 85 degrees, so your mileage might vary if you see 100s regularly in your area. There were also other members going with the dual oil cooler core setup, and the results were similar, in 270s. These temps are perfectly fine for the engine. I also got the oil samples tested after track days(Mobil 1 5W-30 EP), and per the result, oil was like new

Here is a video from one of my last attempts. It's a bit hard to read, but the oil temp gauge is in front of the shifter.

Thanks. Had you gotten your oil tested after track runs prior to the oil cooler? I wonder whether the Blackstone testing can tell whether oil has degraded due to heat, or whether it is only able to show signs of engine wear.

[X25]

Originally Posted by wernergmhtp

Thanks. Had you gotten your oil tested after track runs prior to the oil cooler? I wonder whether the Blackstone testing can tell whether oil has degraded due to heat, or whether it is only able to show signs of engine wear.

No I haven't, but I know that the test can tell if the oil has degraded due to heat. It tells you the effective 'weight' of the oil, which would change drastically if the oil was cooked, and also reveals the amount of protective add-ons (like zinc) left in it. I am very confident that the oil has survived, and is almost like new.

I have changed oil quite often during my tests, though. I wonder how the results would look like after 3 track days. I intend to find out next season.

[wernergmhtp]

Originally Posted by X25

No I haven't, but I know that the test can tell if the oil has degraded due to heat. It tells you the effective 'weight' of the oil, which would change drastically if the oil was cooked, and also reveals the amount of protective add-ons (like zinc) left in it. I am very confident that the oil has survived, and is almost like new.

I have 2 track weekends on my Mobil 1 5w30 EP, one of which was in 100 plus temps. I have a Blackstone kit on the way and will send in a sample when I drain. I'll report back and then we'll see how the oil holds up with stock cooling.

I should note that I rum the balls off my cars so this will be the true definition of a "torture test."

CW

[X25]

Originally Posted by wernergmhtp

I have 2 track weekends on my Mobil 1 5w30 EP, one of which was in 100 plus temps. I have a Blackstone kit on the way and will send in a sample when I drain. I'll report back and then we'll see how the oil holds up with stock cooling.

I should note that I rum the balls off my cars so this will be the true definition of a "torture test."

CW

Sounds great. If you've never seen a reduced engine output message, and if the thresholds are same as C7Z06, then you must have never exceeded 320 degrees F. FYI, the car was reporting 290+ degrees F at OBDII (display stops increasing at 266) with only an upgraded radiator in just a handful of laps, after which I backed off to cool it back down at the time at 90 degrees F or less. If your track and average RPMs are similar (and your sessions not too short), you must have hit at least 300 degrees F. My average RPMs hover around 5500 RPM at Oregon Raceway Park per log data with 19" tires.