Winterizing - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

BlackMagik · 10-16-2015, 05:59 AM

I have several vehicles that are stored for the winter and have never had a problem with cracking tires when stored inside. The only time when I have noticed visible cracking is when a vehicle is stored outside in the winter for a prolonged period of time over several years. Generally tires exposed to cold and sunshine will suffer far more than those that are simply in cold weather.

With respect to my Z, I have done the following:

-Increased pressure to 45 psi (to avoid squatting)
-Place mouse poison on and behind tires
-Place in a garage that will be kept at 5 C or 41 F
-Use a Honda Optimate Battery Tender (by far the best)
-Placed under a cover

Start Once monthly to avoid gunk from forming in any significant capacity. Voila, done. I've never had one issue using this method with any previous cars so we'll see.

prd72 · 10-16-2015, 01:25 PM

Great topic. Just need some added advice.

This is the first car I have stored. It will be inside in a heated warehouse under its cover.

1) best way to have trunk open for the trickle charger and keeping the trunk light off.
2) I had the oil change done after break in. I've put 5000km on since. should i just wait till the spring and get it changed or do it before winter.
3) tires. the warehouse will never be below 65F. any concerns?
4) I've put blocks behind the wheels so the car wont move. Should i leave it in gear or neutral?

Any other advice would be appreciated.

BlackMagik · 10-16-2015, 11:01 PM

I would not use the trunk because of the light. No need to disconnect it, better to use your charge points in the front. Hook your red lead to the available red terminal. Hook the black lead to a bolt, I used the one where the intake is fastened near the red post. Hooking to a bolt on the motor doesn't work.

Run the cables out the front placing them as close to the center of the hood as possible. Close the hood to the first latch, not all the way down. This will give you enough space for your cables and leads.

If you are afraid of someone closing the hood all the way, you could go up underneath the body near the exhaust manifold and you will have no issues.

I put mine in neutral with park brake on, either should be fine.

derklug1 · 10-16-2015, 11:15 PM

My winter ritual:
1) Wash and wax
2) Put on jack stands.
3) Remove tires and store in basement.
4) Change oil.
5) Add Stabil to full tank and run for 10 minutes to circulate.
6) Remove battery and put in basement
7) Put on car cover, look at truck and give a sigh. No more fun till April.

4 FN 27 · 10-17-2015, 08:11 AM

I have ran a Car Storage business for 25 years now. In all my years of watching owners do what they feel is right for their car I have never seen a wrong approach. From the guys who seal their seal their cars in air tight bags with moisture absorbing packets by the dozens to the guy who just parks it, pulls the Battery and throws a few bed sheets over it...they all have fired right up in the spring and were enjoyed for an other summer.

The most important thing is to keep the temperature the consistent. Keep the mice out of the building. Cover the car and put a trickle charger on it or disconnect the battery.

Mice are the biggest problem. Our building is sealed and clean and the only time I get Mice is from people bringing their cars in. Before I accept a car I ask the owner if they have a Cat, Dog or Bird and ask them where they keep their food? If they answer in the garage 5 out of 10 will have Mice in them. Thus every car gets a few good old fashion snap mouse traps in them. I don't believe in poison after all they crawl back to their nest and die. At least with a trap I know they are there and I can dispose of them.

One other thing to consider in the snow belt is the condition of the building. Every once and a while I'll get a call to take a car that was in a building where the roof collapsed under the weight of the snow. Grandma's old pole shed might be cheap but is it safe?

Personally I store my cars at 50°. Anything with Fuel Injection (modern car) gets a trickle charger. Older cars I disconnect the battery. Air the tires to normal psi but I do park them on a piece of cardboard. They all get covered and I just leave them sit until it is time to drive them again.

Fuel is the main enemy to storage. Stable and Sea Foam for me with non-oxy fuel. 3/4-7/8 of a tank simply because I have seen cars with full tanks come in from the cold and when they warm up they push a little fuel out. Not a good thing in a tight building.

CamaroRS/SS10 · 10-18-2015, 10:00 AM

If parking for a long time leave it in gear and parking brake off. The brakes can freze up and hard on them when breaking loose.

4 FN 27 · 10-19-2015, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z28 HLR

Where is Grant, MN?

Thank you for sharing and the pictures are awesome!

About 20 minutes NE of St Paul between White Bear Lake and Stillwater.

chimazo · 10-19-2015, 06:41 PM

I went with the RaceRamp Flatstoppers (make sure you order the 14" wide version). They were $260 shipped from AutoAnything and I used a 15% off code (AA15RMN), so price ended up @ $221. If you buy a set by the end of the year, you can also get a $25 rebate (http://www.raceramps.com/2015-4th-quarter-rebate.aspx), so your net will be under $200 for the pack of 4. Easier to swallow at that price!

United_727 · 10-22-2015, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4 FN 27

About 20 minutes NE of St Paul between White Bear Lake and Stillwater.

You sure do cram 'em in there .

10-16-2015, 11:15 PM	#18
derklug1 Drives: 2016 GT350 Join Date: May 2015 Location: grand rapids mi Posts: 145	My winter ritual: 1) Wash and wax 2) Put on jack stands. 3) Remove tires and store in basement. 4) Change oil. 5) Add Stabil to full tank and run for 10 minutes to circulate. 6) Remove battery and put in basement 7) Put on car cover, look at truck and give a sigh. No more fun till April. __________________ "Life is hard, it's harder if you're stupid" John Wayne

10-17-2015, 08:11 AM	#19
4 FN 27 Drives: 2015 Z28 Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Grant Minnesnota Posts: 311	I have ran a Car Storage business for 25 years now. In all my years of watching owners do what they feel is right for their car I have never seen a wrong approach. From the guys who seal their seal their cars in air tight bags with moisture absorbing packets by the dozens to the guy who just parks it, pulls the Battery and throws a few bed sheets over it...they all have fired right up in the spring and were enjoyed for an other summer. The most important thing is to keep the temperature the consistent. Keep the mice out of the building. Cover the car and put a trickle charger on it or disconnect the battery. Mice are the biggest problem. Our building is sealed and clean and the only time I get Mice is from people bringing their cars in. Before I accept a car I ask the owner if they have a Cat, Dog or Bird and ask them where they keep their food? If they answer in the garage 5 out of 10 will have Mice in them. Thus every car gets a few good old fashion snap mouse traps in them. I don't believe in poison after all they crawl back to their nest and die. At least with a trap I know they are there and I can dispose of them. One other thing to consider in the snow belt is the condition of the building. Every once and a while I'll get a call to take a car that was in a building where the roof collapsed under the weight of the snow. Grandma's old pole shed might be cheap but is it safe? Personally I store my cars at 50°. Anything with Fuel Injection (modern car) gets a trickle charger. Older cars I disconnect the battery. Air the tires to normal psi but I do park them on a piece of cardboard. They all get covered and I just leave them sit until it is time to drive them again. Fuel is the main enemy to storage. Stable and Sea Foam for me with non-oxy fuel. 3/4-7/8 of a tank simply because I have seen cars with full tanks come in from the cold and when they warm up they push a little fuel out. Not a good thing in a tight building. Attached Images Last edited by 4 FN 27; 10-17-2015 at 09:06 AM.

10-18-2015, 10:00 AM	#20
CamaroRS/SS10 Drives: '13 Hot Wheels & '14 Z/28 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Murfreesboro Posts: 288 View My Garage	If parking for a long time leave it in gear and parking brake off. The brakes can freze up and hard on them when breaking loose. __________________ 2013 Hot Wheels Camaro #63 SS 6-Speed. All stock and keeping it that way. 2014 Z/28 #119 A/C car(not by choice, ordered wrong) All stock and plan to keep it that way. The kid in me wants to mod the Hell out of it but the adult says it will be worth more years down the road. The 2 of them need to stop fighting! 1983 Chevrolet C10 lowered and restoring. 1986 Chevrolet K10 6 in lift, 35's,restored daily driver for my son. 2013 Hot Wheels Camaro. Life Size Toy.. 2014 Z/28 my weekend stress reliever! 2015 Checy Sonic RS 2015 Chevy Equinox

10-16-2015, 05:59 AM	#15
BlackMagik Drives: 2014 Camaro Z/28 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 8	I have several vehicles that are stored for the winter and have never had a problem with cracking tires when stored inside. The only time when I have noticed visible cracking is when a vehicle is stored outside in the winter for a prolonged period of time over several years. Generally tires exposed to cold and sunshine will suffer far more than those that are simply in cold weather. With respect to my Z, I have done the following: -Increased pressure to 45 psi (to avoid squatting) -Place mouse poison on and behind tires -Place in a garage that will be kept at 5 C or 41 F -Use a Honda Optimate Battery Tender (by far the best) -Placed under a cover Start Once monthly to avoid gunk from forming in any significant capacity. Voila, done. I've never had one issue using this method with any previous cars so we'll see.

10-16-2015, 01:25 PM	#16
prd72 Drives: 14 Z/28 #180 Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: abbotsford canada Posts: 90	Great topic. Just need some added advice. This is the first car I have stored. It will be inside in a heated warehouse under its cover. 1) best way to have trunk open for the trickle charger and keeping the trunk light off. 2) I had the oil change done after break in. I've put 5000km on since. should i just wait till the spring and get it changed or do it before winter. 3) tires. the warehouse will never be below 65F. any concerns? 4) I've put blocks behind the wheels so the car wont move. Should i leave it in gear or neutral? Any other advice would be appreciated.

10-16-2015, 11:01 PM	#17
BlackMagik Drives: 2014 Camaro Z/28 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 8	I would not use the trunk because of the light. No need to disconnect it, better to use your charge points in the front. Hook your red lead to the available red terminal. Hook the black lead to a bolt, I used the one where the intake is fastened near the red post. Hooking to a bolt on the motor doesn't work. Run the cables out the front placing them as close to the center of the hood as possible. Close the hood to the first latch, not all the way down. This will give you enough space for your cables and leads. If you are afraid of someone closing the hood all the way, you could go up underneath the body near the exhaust manifold and you will have no issues. I put mine in neutral with park brake on, either should be fine.

10-19-2015, 06:41 PM	#22
chimazo Drives: 2016 Ram Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Texas Posts: 243	I went with the RaceRamp Flatstoppers (make sure you order the 14" wide version). They were $260 shipped from AutoAnything and I used a 15% off code (AA15RMN), so price ended up @ $221. If you buy a set by the end of the year, you can also get a $25 rebate (http://www.raceramps.com/2015-4th-quarter-rebate.aspx), so your net will be under $200 for the pack of 4. Easier to swallow at that price!