New here, need some datail products advice!

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by jjv101

Very nice write up! To answer your questions. Yes I have used Adams videos when learning about the two bucket wash method.

I should not need paint correction right away as the vehicle has been ordered (not even build yet) and will have sit on a dealer lot more than a couple days.

Would do recommend using a paint sealant and then putting on the 845, or just using the 845?

Thank you...Adams makes good stuff!

You'd be surprised...
1) Do NOT let the dealership wash your car! PERIOD!
2) I've spent of 30 hours correcting a "brand new" car with less than 50 miles on the ODO
3) I prefer a wax on top of a sealant but that's me. You may wish to ask Adam's Polishes his thoughts.

[scandata]

Originally Posted by jjv101

I should not need paint correction right away as the vehicle has been ordered (not even build yet) and will have sit on a dealer lot more than a couple days.

True, you shouldn't have swirls, but you might need to clay and use Iron-X because when your car is shipped from the factory by train, it's exposed to the elements with a lot of debris hitting it at high speed - all the way across the country in some cases. In addition to that, the brakes on rail cars kick up a lot of tiny iron filings that can get embedded in your paint.

So how to decide what you need to do?...

To decide if you need to clay, use the baggie test (only after washing and drying)
In case you aren't familiar with this: https://youtu.be/Ml434m7ILNA

For iron particles, look for tiny brown dots in your paint. Those will be the embedded iron filings rusting. If you see them, use some Iron-X with an appropriate sponge to dissolve and dislodge them.

[jjv101]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

The reason I got the buckets from Adams was they had all the things I wanted in a bucket. Gamma seal lids and grit guards already included. Yes you can buy the buckets for $3 or so. The grit guards are like $9, the gamma seal tops are around $13, so by the time you add it all up the price is the same.

They have a 2 bucket combo now which is $44.99 before any discounts. With the current promotions (Camaro5 or ShineOn) available they would be $40.

I like the Gamma seal because when I'm done washing, I rinse the buckets out, dry them with a plain old towel, put the seals on, and they are completely clean for the next go round. No chance of any dust or dirt getting in them.

Also in the winter, I can prep them with water in 1, soap in the other. They fit perfectly in the trunk, so I can go to my nearby pay and spray to use the pressure wand if the car has gotten really dirty, as it will occasionally in winter.

That does make sense now that you mention that!

Originally Posted by Merlinii

Thank you...Adams makes good stuff!

You'd be surprised...
1) Do NOT let the dealership wash your car! PERIOD!
2) I've spent of 30 hours correcting a "brand new" car with less than 50 miles on the ODO
3) I prefer a wax on top of a sealant but that's me. You may wish to ask Adam's Polishes his thoughts.

From their videos, I got the same impression, wax over sealant! I do not plan on letting the dealership wash it.

Originally Posted by scandata

True, you shouldn't have swirls, but you might need to clay and use Iron-X because when your car is shipped from the factory by train, it's exposed to the elements with a lot of debris hitting it at high speed - all the way across the country in some cases. In addition to that, the brakes on rail cars kick up a lot of tiny iron filings that can get embedded in your paint.

So how to decide what you need to do?...

To decide if you need to clay, use the baggie test (only after washing and drying)
In case you aren't familiar with this: https://youtu.be/Ml434m7ILNA

For iron particles, look for tiny brown dots in your paint. Those will be the embedded iron filings rusting. If you see them, use some Iron-X with an appropriate sponge to dissolve and dislodge them.

Since you bring that up that is a good point, never thought of that! Would the speedy prep towel Joe mentioned work for this as a clay alternative or would it be better to start with clay!


Ive been spending the afternoon trying to work out if buying the Adams kit is better or piecing my own together with some Adams products and various other companies products. I remember you mentioned the Backfire product combos but I can't help to think the H20 GG from Adams is a nice little product for $20, get some protection, helps in drying, and adds some gloss! Any experience with that product?

As I may have mentioned earlier I am also looking for a kit/to put a kit together as a Christmas gift for my father to use on his vehicles and motorcycle with his sub par water (well water)

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

The Prep towel will save you money and time in the long run.
The differences between it and clay are:

With clay you can see the contaminates in the clay, you can't see them on the towel.

This is not an issue though, with the towel you simple wipe (no pressure) and listen and feel. Once the towel runs smooth, your section is finished.

If you drop the clay on the ground, it's toast, you have to throw it away, with the towel, you rinse with warm water and move on.

A clay kit can be bought at any WalMart or auto store, usually around $20. Megs or Mothers. You'll get a couple clay bars, a bottle of detail spray (clay lube), and a cheap microfiber towel. The bottle will be gone in one time claying, that's why I recommend the UWW plus. The ONR Merlin advised is also a good value.

The clay bar also has to be kneaded once it's got contaminates on it. With the towel, you just flip to a new section, after you use all 4, rinse it off and start again. It saves a TON of time.

I did on my first use of the towel, get some light marring because I used pressure. This was however a blessing in disguise, because Corey @ Carpro USA turned me on to Reflect finishing polish on a Tangerine LC Hydrotech. Best finishing polish I've ever used.


EDIT: I should also add that with the towel you use a lot more lube, but using UWW or ONR, it's still very inexpensive.

[CCMADONNA]

this is a good start for your first detail once you get the car home -- after the first detail, don't use the Dawn unless you want to strip the wax off your car. You don't really need the Black Light on the first detail either.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by CCMADONNA

this is a good start for your first detail once you get the car home -- after the first detail, don't use the Dawn unless you want to strip the wax off your car. You don't really need the Black Light on the first detail either.

Roshan who used to frequent this forum. (He probably has his nose in a Organic Chemistry book right about now), did a test using Dawn as a strip wash, he found it did not remove some waxes and sealants. I don't know all the specifics.

[CCMADONNA]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Roshan who used to frequent this forum. (He probably has his nose in a Organic Chemistry book right about now), did a test using Dawn as a strip wash, he found it did not remove some waxes and sealants. I don't know all the specifics.

srsly?

so i'm only removing the wax when i do the alcohol wipe?

[jjv101]

Originally Posted by CCMADONNA

this is a good start for your first detail once you get the car home -- after the first detail, don't use the Dawn unless you want to strip the wax off your car. You don't really need the Black Light on the first detail either.

Looks like a good mix of different products! Doing more research while bored at work tonight. I tell ya third shift is either crazy or dead!

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Roshan who used to frequent this forum. (He probably has his nose in a Organic Chemistry book right about now), did a test using Dawn as a strip wash, he found it did not remove some waxes and sealants. I don't know all the specifics.

Here's a question for all y"all. As I stated before, looking to get my father some stuff for Christmas. They have horrible well water, is there a specific wash/shampoo and rinse less wash I should be looking into to counter the hard water?

All, RC has posted some Black Friday/ cyber Monday deals. 10pk eagle towels for $35 for example. These should work for QD, product removal and what not, but can they be used for rinse less or should I be looking at the Everest 800/1100? Or something else?

[Merlin]

Most folks believe that the paint on a brand new vehicle is 100% from the factory.
That simply is not the case.

To clean contaminants from paint there is a chemical and mechanical process.

DECON - Mechanical Decon

One difference between the Nanoskin Autoscrub sponge and towel is cost.
IMO the towel is more difficult to store as it "sticks" to itself.
The sponge runs about $12 and the towel costs about $50.
The sponge expected use is 10-15 vehicles.
The towel expected use is 50-60 vehicles.
The towel has more surface area.
IMHO the towel is easier to use.

In either case, be sure to "break-in" the polymerized rubber surface on your windows first.

I have found that you may still need to use a "fine" clay bar after the Autoscrub.
Be sure and only purchase the FINE grade Autoscrub and clay to avoid marring.

[Egon]

Autogeek is having a 25% off sale with flat rate shipping of $7.95 with promo code FRIDAY25, so now would be a good time to pick up what you need at a good discount.

[jjv101]

Originally Posted by Merlinii

Most folks believe that the paint on a brand new vehicle is 100% from the factory.
That simply is not the case.

To clean contaminants from paint there is a chemical and mechanical process.

DECON - Mechanical Decon

One difference between the Nanoskin Autoscrub sponge and towel is cost.
IMO the towel is more difficult to store as it "sticks" to itself.
The sponge runs about $12 and the towel costs about $50.
The sponge expected use is 10-15 vehicles.
The towel expected use is 50-60 vehicles.
The towel has more surface area.
IMHO the towel is easier to use.

In either case, be sure to "break-in" the polymerized rubber surface on your windows first.

I have found that you may still need to use a "fine" clay bar after the Autoscrub.
Be sure and only purchase the FINE grade Autoscrub and clay to avoid marring.

Do I still need to use an Iron X product along with this?

After looking at the speedy prep towel, I have a buddy that has used something like this, but it was in a pad form, watched him use it on his truck and was wondering what the heck it is.

So is there a difference between the speedy prep towel and the Autoscrub towel or pad. (looked up the sponge, didn't hear very good things!)

Originally Posted by Egon

Autogeek is having a 25% off sale with flat rate shipping of $7.95 with promo code FRIDAY25, so now would be a good time to pick up what you need at a good discount.

Awesome I appreciate that! Interested to see what the black Friday deals will be like!

[KICKER]

I got to the party late, but, jjv101, ADAMS!

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by jjv101

Do I still need to use an Iron X product along with this?

After looking at the speedy prep towel, I have a buddy that has used something like this, but it was in a pad form, watched him use it on his truck and was wondering what the heck it is.

So is there a difference between the speedy prep towel and the Autoscrub towel or pad. (looked up the sponge, didn't hear very good things!)

Step 1 Chemical Decontamination

I use IronX first -
Spray and them smear in with a foam wax sponge.
Let it sit about 5 minutes. Do not let it dry on the paint.
Then thoroughly rinse it off.

Step 2 - Mechanical decontamination

Follow that with a "clay" treatment
Be sure to use plenty of clay lube with the towel.
Be sure to do a "break in" on your glass before use on paint!

--------------

There are quite a few variations of the same polymerized rubber
Sponge, Wash Mitt, Towel, Pad for DA Polisher etc.

I personally prefer the towel. It offers "feel" and "sound".

--------------

I'm sure there is there are a few folks that make different versions.
I use a Nanoskin Autoscrub Towel (FINE) and I like it.

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by KICKER

I got to the party late, but, jjv101, ADAMS!

SWEET!