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Old 12-27-2015, 05:20 PM   #1
bradywatt23
 
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Quiet Header setup DD

Hey guys I know its another header thread but hear me out!!

I have looked through the pages and haven't found any threads addressing a quieter header setup.. That being said i want to ask and see if anybody out there can help me out. My car is a daily driver L99. For my needs I'm looking for more power down low because its not in the high revs enough like a racer car would be. 1st question is would I be better off going with shorty headers because I have heard the do ok with adding more grunt down low and I don't want to shell out the money for a tri-y set of long tubes. Sound wise I like a deeper tone but i'm not a big fan of all the rasp that comes with the long tubes. Right now my car has the stock exhaust with muffler and resonator delete and that volume is about as much as I want..

I'm open to all your guys opinions and look forward to hearing what you have to say!
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Old 12-27-2015, 05:47 PM   #2
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Just gut the cats
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Old 12-27-2015, 05:53 PM   #3
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Seriously, get any headers with high flow cats and stock muffler and add some resonator. Should be quiet. I think my headers/HFC with stock NPP is quiet, but that is from inside my car! Outside its kinda loud. Nothing like a straight pipe. Driving around without going WOT, its far from loud.

I'd guess that stock muffler are quieter and L99 have an extra set of resonator down the exhaust I pipe, I think.

CAtless mid pipe is the cheapest solution after gutting the cats. I'd go with the mids you can resell them later and put back your stock catted mids. And yess it will cause a CEL
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Old 12-27-2015, 06:00 PM   #4
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Put gears in it, you want down low power. No headers shorties, longs, tri-y's, gutting cats will give you the low end punch without making more noise.
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Old 12-27-2015, 06:11 PM   #5
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removing Stock CATS is good for a 15rwhp, you will feel it.
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Old setup: TSP 231-236/Tick 660/.105 PR, UDP, SW LT 2'' & HFC, stock NPP & H pipe, VR-DRX CAI, air scoop, Goertz1 manifold, 102mm BBK, 26" Toyo DRs, Forgestars R17x10 & F18x8, rear seat delete, remote Pat G tune Autocal, 7400 limiter, Spec Mini Twin. 91oct. 11.90@122.3, 0-60ft 2.0 / 11.99@123.6, 0-60ft 2.1 DA+819 ...519RWHP SAE

Solid roller SBE LS3, FED, LLSR, 91oct, 605rwhp N/A. Tuned by Pat G. Build by me.
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Old 12-27-2015, 06:14 PM   #6
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when I did mine I thought it would be way louder, have a non muffler setup, the Stainless Works Retro chambered 3 inch cat back, long tubes and high flows. just loud enough and deep enough to impress and you can still carry a conversation when driving. no drone!
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Old 12-27-2015, 06:25 PM   #7
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Awesome! Didn't expect this much this quick. So what I'm getting from some of this is to just gut the cats w/ stock manifolds? Also I have seen a lot of people with long tubes on stock mufflers but from the videos it seems very raspy. any input on that?
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Old 12-27-2015, 07:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradywatt23 View Post
Hey guys I know its another header thread but hear me out!!

I have looked through the pages and haven't found any threads addressing a quieter header setup.. That being said i want to ask and see if anybody out there can help me out.[B] My car is a daily driver L99. For my needs I'm looking for more power down low /B]because its not in the high revs enough like a racer car would be. 1st question is would I be better off going with shorty headers because I have heard the do ok with adding more grunt down low and I don't want to shell out the money for a tri-y set of long tubes. Sound wise I like a deeper tone but [B]i'm not a big fan of all the rasp that comes with the long tubes. Right now my car has the stock exhaust with muffler and resonator delete and that volume is about as much as I want/B]..

I'm open to all your guys opinions and look forward to hearing what you have to say!
In the name of some minor trial and error, I'm not sure what your budget is...

You want power down low, without deviating from the OEM dB levels, but you want a little more bass and grunt in the exhaust and power delivery is my understanding here. Here is a summary,

-First and foremost start with all of the bolt-ons MINUS the headers, then tune for the highest octane fiuel in your area, drive around, see how you feel.....then you can decide if it's time for hi-flo cats. I always emphasize tune regardless off.

-This one here for me is your best option. Have a custom cam, designed only for low end torque and power, with as close to OEM idle quality as possible, using your stock manifolds with hi-flo cats OR gutted OEM cats (this is why I asked about your budget )
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Old 12-27-2015, 07:59 PM   #9
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I would love to do a cam but with that then I have to go with lifters/pushrods too. My car is tuned remotely by Dynosteve (great by the way!) And volume wise I would like to stay muffler delete level or so not OEM.. sorry for the misunderstanding there.
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Old 12-27-2015, 08:27 PM   #10
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I would love to do a cam but with that then I have to go with lifters/pushrods too. My car is tuned remotely by Dynosteve (great by the way!) And volume wise I would like to stay muffler delete level or so not OEM.. sorry for the misunderstanding there.
Not entirely true at all, especially if it were an LS3 on the lifer side of things.

The key word here is Custom Cam. You need to think out of the box for what I'm talking about here. Drop-in cams by every sense of that word do exist out there, but only a handful run them. They would not be called "drop-in" if you had to start replacing stuff, lol.

An extreme example to illustrate the point, you can actually spec a custom cam to be smaller than your OEM one, and produce more low end torque than stock. The point of this being, this particular cam will be even milder on your engine, hence what I mean by associating the words Custom Cam, does not automatically mean, you must start replacing OEM internal components, such as the ones you mentioned, and even more.

Yes, I know, it's easier said than done on the L99 concerning lifters. But one may argue they suck anyways, even in stock applications, so the argument is moot with me .

Nonetheless, a custom, drop-in, baby VVT friendly cam..with low end torque in mind, that drives like stock on stock stall, designed to be (as close to) mild and friendly, is possible .
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Old 12-27-2015, 08:57 PM   #11
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That would be nice... I do like a lopey idle though:roll eyes:. concerning the lifters though i have a hard time trusting the afm lifters as is is so if I'm going to go through the work of doing a cam I'm going to switch out the lifters as well.

Can you answer this... Is there a worthwhile advantage of the shorties compared to stock manifolds? I mean obviously it will be better but worth the time and money if everything else is left the same...
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:10 PM   #12
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....

Can you answer this... Is there a worthwhile advantage of the shorties compared to stock manifolds? I mean obviously it will be better but worth the time and money if everything else is left the same...
Exhaust vid and dyno gains page 3-4, I would PM and ask CrystalRed...http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=375365
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:44 AM   #13
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I have shorties, stock cats, and a catback. It's very quiet. I believe the previous owner did shorties for emissions reasons. I was under the impression that stock manifolds flow pretty well and shorties wouldn't really be worthwhile. Paired with aftermarket cats are a different story.

Instead of getting high flow cats, I opted to man up and get some LT's and cat deletes. That'll be this winter's goal followed by a dyno tune in the spring.
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:31 PM   #14
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You removed the stock L99 resonator? What do you have there now?
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