Oil pump

[Hunker]

So I am doing a head and cam mod , I keep reading a lot about oil pump replacement. My question is do I need to change my oil pump also?

[SrtWtF]

Miles? And l99? or ls3 manual?

[Hunker]

7000 miles and ls3 6m

[ravensjeff]

Most of the info I came across while investigating this due to my oil pump failure were from older (2010) Camaros. I'd change it out for peace of mind and make sure you use the proper oil for your setup when doing cam.

Some good background reading:

https://www.google.com/search?q=2010...sm=93&ie=UTF-8

[christianchevell]

you want higher volume which results in higher pressure readings..... some stock pumps had a tendency for sticking parts, and BTW make sure the O ring for the pump is right and on there and not left behind in the old pump from the pick up tube that keeps the pick up sealed tight and the thing is not laying on the bottom of the pan...read about these problems on here before..... While it is not really needed to change out the chain and pump it is advisable as the ls3 tensioner can get brittle and break compared to the ls2 dogbone , and higher volume means better lube to parts. And a C5R chain is the norm as single roller chains don't stretch they do wear on the roller though... chains don't stretch the teeth of the gears dig into the roller part of the link over time and bad harmonics from being built can vibrate the chain more.. along with bearings etc... and a good harmonic balancer is good for that also, yet the dampener with our internally balanced engine does get reused by most and they do not think about down the road ...kind of like breaking in the roller cam....... because a roller cam does not instantly eat its self to death like a flat tappet cam with low ZDDP oil etc....and only costs like four times more about the same as the engine SBC 350 versus ls3......

And yes I do a BR30 driven racing oil break in...... but hey do what you will, its entertaining over time learning through the years of others failures to even simply use racing oil or do a break in because they know it all.... Yes I am a old motor head who built things repeatedly myself.... Mostly Chevies...

[hesster]

My tuner was adamant on not replacing the oil pump when installing my Whipple and Blower Cam. Most failures were attributed to the relief valve sticking, and contamination, both some factory machining debris issues and or not maintaining oil changes. He did replace the timing chain, sprocket, and did away with the spring loaded tensioner, and went with the dog bone design.

[rberns]

Since you have the LS3 I would definitely change it out for a melling hv.

[tadams72]

The issue with some factory pumps is a sticking relief. You can clean up the piston and bore with a light emery cloth or you can choose to move to an aftermarket pump like the Melling. I'd ask what you are using the car for? If it's just a daily feel free to reuse the factory pump and do the clean up. I've run a couple Melling 10296 pumps with great success. One straight out of the box and one that I did a bunch of port work to.

Bottom line, you are going to get a million opinions on this topic. You'll have to decide which one you want to follow. Good luck.


Travis

[Russell James]

I nice strong magnetic drain plug, and a filter magnet are cheap insurance to try to keep debris to a min.

It's the debris that is a prob sticking that relief valve. It can also be perfected as mentioned.

Also make sure the oil pump is centered when installing. If the installer has never heard of centering the pump, be very concerned.

If it were me, and I had all that apart... I'd put a melling HV in there. Especially if you are adding stiffer valve springs. Your lifters and oil and oil pressure were all spec'd out for the stock valve springs. Stiffer springs... one might like a little more oil pressure to support the lifters and try to avoid some ticking.

[Trob85]

Just do it and not worry about it.

[Soybeanrice]

Originally Posted by Hunker

So I am doing a head and cam mod , I keep reading a lot about oil pump replacement. My question is do I need to change my oil pump also?

its so, so, so, so, so, so easy to recommend spending more money. Remember that.

Answer: No. Recommend? Yes

[Hunker]

I guess my follow up question should be is this still a problem with ls3 engines built after 2010, I haven't seen or heard many people with newer engines having this problem.

[Soybeanrice]

Originally Posted by Hunker

I guess my follow up question should be is this still a problem with ls3 engines built after 2010, I haven't seen or heard many people with newer engines having this problem.

I thought I read something about the valve sticking being related to 2010/2011, someone would have to clarify that.

[JCunningham]

The stock pressure and volume fine. At leased have the stock one ported or go with a melling 10295 is fine the 10296 is for engines clearensed for a hi volume pump. Both will work fine just not needed. Both pumps come with a high pressure spring installed and a regular pressure in the box. There's no wrong answer with any way you set it up.