02-26-2016, 01:09 AM | #15 | |
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
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Quote:
OP as said, carb cleaner will not hurt anything...as long as it is not abused. It will dry out gaskets it is contact with. No worries about cleaning out your throttle body with it...spray and keep the throttle up, don't over spray nor let the engine die. The engine should be running/on..duh < a drunk DIY beware lol
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
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02-26-2016, 01:14 AM | #16 |
Would rather be riding
Drives: No car no more Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 2,750
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Carb cleaner is bad news, I know you all won't believe me. I always use the weaker stuff before resorting to it's use. It likes to eat the paint off of stuff, like Harley Engines. Anything that strong I don't want near my machined aluminum parts.
I really can't tell much difference between brake cleaner and throttle body cleaner, besides price.
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No dog in this fight anymore.
5th Gen owner 2009-2016. |
02-26-2016, 01:17 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,069
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o sorry
1 qt of 75w90 with 3oz of anti slip additive . 18ftlbs on the fill and drain plugs. he asked what he should do not how to do it or what to use. The owners manual says what fluids to use. The 2010 manual I believe calls for 1oz of anti slip additive. GM updated it to 3oz. you will need a Hand fluid pump available at any auto parts store. is that good enough for you? brake clean kills plastic. I never had a 90mm GM TB apart but if it can leak into the electrical of it it will destroy it. Why leave it on and have someone revving the engine to keep it running when it so easy to take it off.
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Last edited by JCunningham; 02-26-2016 at 01:33 AM. |
02-26-2016, 06:48 AM | #18 | |
Drives: 2012 M6 Camaro SS (RIP) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,684
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02-26-2016, 10:46 AM | #19 |
Hoser.
Drives: 2018 Z06 Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Greatest Country in the world.
Posts: 1,104
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You may void your warranty . Check with your Oldsmobile dealer.
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Speed is a substitute for clearance.
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02-26-2016, 11:26 AM | #20 |
Drives: 2012 2SS/RS Vert M6 Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: South East, PA
Posts: 117
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To OP
Since your question was about tips and general maintenance suggestions at your mileage interval, I would suggest: 1. Clean out the throttle body, as suggested 2. Inspect your belts 3. Check your spark plugs if you have mods, otherwise the iridiums should hold up 4. Check fuel injectors - have them cleaned or run a cleaner through them 5. If you dont have a catch can, inspect the plastic, pseudo pcv line that goes into the intake to be sure it isn't clogged up 6. Clean the MAF if you haven't already done so as part of regular maintenance 7. Change your oil! 8. Inspect your air filter 9. Transmission fluid is optional between 50k - 100k on your car depending on use. At least check it 10. Check your tire treads to make sure your tire wear is even and your car is tracking fine and your suspension isnt out of alignment |
03-30-2018, 05:48 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: NOR-CAL
Posts: 1
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My usual every 100k tune up on for most of my cars:
This is a lot of long-term preventive maintenance. -spark plugs (OEM, ACdelco iridiums were only $36 for 8) -spark plug wires (cheap and time for MSD or Taylors) -replace all belts (continental or gates for me) -tensioners and idler pulley (OEM) -thermostat (OEM) -water pump (OEM)(except the one on LS motors seems robust, so will wait til 150k) -clean throttle body and MAF sensor -power steering oil change (turkey baster, run it through multiple times) -brake fluid flush (Castrol DOT4 for me) -time to upgrade to stainless steel brake lines if not already done -battery (Everstart MAXX for me. my 2012 had the original in it for 6yrs/100k miles and no issues, I just replaced it yesterday for peace of mind; bad batteries leave you stranded with a dead alternator too, so $150 is cheaper than a tow and big bill if on a long road trip TRANS -oil/filter change (OEM or Redline for me) DIFF -change oil (Redline 75w-90 for me) -change oil again after 1-2k (cheap insurance and you will be surprised how much gets cleaned out) |
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