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View Poll Results: Which cam for BEST overall performance- drivability/hp/trq
P-233/248 .627"/.612" | LSA 113+5 7 18.92%
B- 233/250 .619"/.595" | LSA 113+5 14 37.84%
T- 235/239 .627"/.624" | LSA 112 16 43.24%
Voters: 37. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-02-2016, 03:50 PM   #29
RupertPupkin

 
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Originally Posted by Gearheaded View Post
That's the exact cam I have
How do u like it?
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Old 03-02-2016, 04:10 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by RupertPupkin View Post
How do u like it?
The sound is fantastic, and the chop at idle is moderate. It doesn't sound like Satan laughing or anything, but you can tell the cam is obviously there.

As for driving I can't tell you performance other than 3rd gear pulls because I need tires bad (the goodyears on my rears are almost completely bald). Parking lots and stuff aren't that bad but I have a 6spd and my car is not a daily driver, so the cam characteristics don't bother me.

It's all in the tune, and my tuner was great. Once I get some rubber under the rear I'll do digs and try my luck at the 1/4mi. Right now the car spins like a mad man for anything under 40mph lol! My BFG's are on back order, so I am patiently waiting for tires
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Old 03-02-2016, 05:40 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Gearheaded View Post
The sound is fantastic, and the chop at idle is moderate. It doesn't sound like Satan laughing or anything, but you can tell the cam is obviously there.

As for driving I can't tell you performance other than 3rd gear pulls because I need tires bad (the goodyears on my rears are almost completely bald). Parking lots and stuff aren't that bad but I have a 6spd and my car is not a daily driver, so the cam characteristics don't bother me.

It's all in the tune, and my tuner was great. Once I get some rubber under the rear I'll do digs and try my luck at the 1/4mi. Right now the car spins like a mad man for anything under 40mph lol! My BFG's are on back order, so I am patiently waiting for tires

But driving the car is pretty tolerable?
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Old 03-02-2016, 06:43 PM   #32
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But driving the car is pretty tolerable?
Well, that's a hard question to answer because it's preference. If you've never owned a cammed car it takes some getting used to simply because you don't drive it normal anymore. You wanna stay a little higher in the revs so it doesn't try to stall at low speeds, and driving at highways speeds is the same. Coming to a stop is a little trickier if you typically waited to shift into neutral around 1000-1200rpms, but other than that it's the same.

I don't daily drive mine, so it's always a blast for me to drive personally, plus when it chops at red lights or in parking lots I always get thumb-ups
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Old 03-02-2016, 06:51 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Gearheaded View Post
Well, that's a hard question to answer because it's preference. If you've never owned a cammed car it takes some getting used to simply because you don't drive it normal anymore. You wanna stay a little higher in the revs so it doesn't try to stall at low speeds, and driving at highways speeds is the same. Coming to a stop is a little trickier if you typically waited to shift into neutral around 1000-1200rpms, but other than that it's the same.

I don't daily drive mine, so it's always a blast for me to drive personally, plus when it chops at red lights or in parking lots I always get thumb-ups
I DD my vette for a week, and I don't mind it. I mostly chilled in 5th gear. If I go on the hey and go 80mph, then I'm usually on 6th.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:20 AM   #34
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The cam from martin also has .040 gasket to up the compression a few not much from stock 10.4.1 to prolly my guess is like 10.7 which is fine with me .Still not 100 percent sure i want a cam thats gonna go down the track dyno to and i like the chop to my old gto had a good mid size cam and it had some chop and ran 96mph in the 1/8
Stock compression on a LS3 IS 10.7:1 Is the L99 different? I'm not for sure... If you plan on going forced induction then any increase in CR is going to hurt you.
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Engine: BTR Stage 4 Cam; BTR Dual Spring Kit; C7R Chain; LS2 Tensioner; High Volume Oil Pump
Drivetrain: ACT T2S-G05 x2 Disc XT Street Kit
Exhaust: Kook's 1 7/8" Headers w/ Off-road pipes;Kook's 3" cat-back; QTP 3" cut-outs
Suspension: BMR 1.4" Front & 1.5" Rear Springs; Blackdog Solid Mounts w/ Poly Bushings
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:22 AM   #35
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No th l99 is 10.4.1 compression and i may go spray later on
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:41 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by JakeW1990 View Post
Stock compression on a LS3 IS 10.7:1 Is the L99 different? I'm not for sure... If you plan on going forced induction then any increase in CR is going to hurt you.
Yes the LS3 has 10.7. So hypothetically I can get .40 gaskets and increase the CR on the LS3 also..yes??
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:59 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by RupertPupkin View Post
Yes the LS3 has 10.7. So hypothetically I can get .40 gaskets and increase the CR on the LS3 also..yes??
http://www.ehow.com/how_6361464_use-...ion-ratio.html

Based off what I have briefly looked at, decreasing/increasing the gap between heads/block increased/decreased CR relative to stock gasket size. For every .025 increase, it's 0.5 decrease in CR and vice versa. Idk what the stock gasket thickness is so I cannot elaborate any further without guessing.

To make things easy, lets say they are .065 thick. If you put .040 gaskets on, you decrease the gap .025 which increases CR by .5. That would roughly make an LS3 CR (10.7+.05) 11.2. So flipside of that is, let's say stock is .015 and we put .040 gasket on. We increased the gap by .025 and therefore have lost .5 CR. So our new total would be 10.2 CR.

Again, this is just to simplify what's going on with changing the head gasket thickness. I DON'T know the stock thickness. I would presume the stock gasket is on the thicker side of things though, which will lead to an increase in CR if going to .040.
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6
12.08 @ 115 - 9/2015 (392hp/393tq) NA w/ Exhaust + Tune
11/2015 (464hp/439tq) ^ + BTR Stage 4 w/ Halltech CAI


Engine: BTR Stage 4 Cam; BTR Dual Spring Kit; C7R Chain; LS2 Tensioner; High Volume Oil Pump
Drivetrain: ACT T2S-G05 x2 Disc XT Street Kit
Exhaust: Kook's 1 7/8" Headers w/ Off-road pipes;Kook's 3" cat-back; QTP 3" cut-outs
Suspension: BMR 1.4" Front & 1.5" Rear Springs; Blackdog Solid Mounts w/ Poly Bushings
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:28 PM   #38
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DOPE!!! Thanks Jake. Hopefully its true, if it is, then im going to increase the CR to 11:1
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:45 PM   #39
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Vote up... wow.. neck and neck with the btr and tsp... No love for the polluter cam?
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Old 03-04-2016, 07:30 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by RupertPupkin View Post
DOPE!!! Thanks Jake. Hopefully its true, if it is, then im going to increase the CR to 11:1
If this is accurate, I can see cams that resemble FI (your others listed) valvetrain actions causing you to potentially lose a good bit of power if you remain NA and try to make big numbers off motor and/or spray AND terrible if you ever decide to go FI. Those cams being FI based won't save you from your .4 CR increase. You will be sadly disappointed on your curves and power. Just my 2 cents.

Furthermore, this clarifies why BTR Stage 4 is legitimate gains and why I laugh when I see "cam only" quote 490ish rwhp. I have E/Ts .3-.5 faster on 1/4 on cars with same mods boasting cam only and 485-490hp.
You can scroll down to the very bottom of the page to get you a quick answer.

http://www.lsxtv.com/tech-stories/en...our-comp-cams/
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6
12.08 @ 115 - 9/2015 (392hp/393tq) NA w/ Exhaust + Tune
11/2015 (464hp/439tq) ^ + BTR Stage 4 w/ Halltech CAI


Engine: BTR Stage 4 Cam; BTR Dual Spring Kit; C7R Chain; LS2 Tensioner; High Volume Oil Pump
Drivetrain: ACT T2S-G05 x2 Disc XT Street Kit
Exhaust: Kook's 1 7/8" Headers w/ Off-road pipes;Kook's 3" cat-back; QTP 3" cut-outs
Suspension: BMR 1.4" Front & 1.5" Rear Springs; Blackdog Solid Mounts w/ Poly Bushings
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:41 AM   #41
RupertPupkin

 
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Originally Posted by JakeW1990 View Post
If this is accurate, I can see cams that resemble FI (your others listed) valvetrain actions causing you to potentially lose a good bit of power if you remain NA and try to make big numbers off motor and/or spray AND terrible if you ever decide to go FI. Those cams being FI based won't save you from your .4 CR increase. You will be sadly disappointed on your curves and power. Just my 2 cents.

Furthermore, this clarifies why BTR Stage 4 is legitimate gains and why I laugh when I see "cam only" quote 490ish rwhp. I have E/Ts .3-.5 faster on 1/4 on cars with same mods boasting cam only and 485-490hp.
You can scroll down to the very bottom of the page to get you a quick answer.

http://www.lsxtv.com/tech-stories/en...our-comp-cams/
The cams I listed actually said NA on the website. :/ There will be no additional power adder. Just cam, headers, intake. My c6z is the 1 thatll get more power.
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:13 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RupertPupkin View Post
The cams I listed actually said NA on the website. :/ There will be no additional power adder. Just cam, headers, intake. My c6z is the 1 thatll get more power.

T- 235/239 .627"/.624" | LSA 112 very much a FI cam as far as duration and lift. LSA is very low- this will increase cylinder pressure and an increase in cylinder temps and ultimately why they listed it as NA. Running that LSA in a FI would lead to a grenaded bottom end or terrible curves due to reduced timing tables...

WIDER LSA GAP
"From a safety perspective, you are going to get a little more overlap and an earlier exhaust opening, resulting in less pumping loss and a little less cylinder heat."

P-233/248 .627"/.612" | LSA 113+5 this is more like what you should be looking for, better than the aforementioned. However; to me, the lifts are way too big for your power goals. I don't think it's going to perform how you think. You are going to lose a lot of back pressure and the car isn't going to like to be in lower RPMS, I'd say <2k rpms with this cam and your slapping your forehead of the steering wheel and the back of your head on the seat. Passengers probably going to hate being in your car due to surge. More than likely will sacrifice the driveability for.... (10hp?-realistically) up top and -30 to -50ft lbs down low. In a 1/8th or 1/4, that's a "L" and looking at someone's taillights on a similarly matched SS w/ BTR Stage 4. The only way to counteract this is probably with 4.10 rears.

Again, BTR Stage 4 and I'm 100% "W" vs Coyote 5.0s, Challenger with the ScatPak. and other SS's w/ similar mods and me being on stock 3.45 rears and I love the driveability. I can only try and steer you in 1 direction. Lol.
__________________
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6
12.08 @ 115 - 9/2015 (392hp/393tq) NA w/ Exhaust + Tune
11/2015 (464hp/439tq) ^ + BTR Stage 4 w/ Halltech CAI


Engine: BTR Stage 4 Cam; BTR Dual Spring Kit; C7R Chain; LS2 Tensioner; High Volume Oil Pump
Drivetrain: ACT T2S-G05 x2 Disc XT Street Kit
Exhaust: Kook's 1 7/8" Headers w/ Off-road pipes;Kook's 3" cat-back; QTP 3" cut-outs
Suspension: BMR 1.4" Front & 1.5" Rear Springs; Blackdog Solid Mounts w/ Poly Bushings
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