catch can yes or no? Answer inside.

[Ragnar]

Originally Posted by drago

chevy does not put 1 on so they can sell you a intake cleaning. i run a moroso catch can and the factory one that came with my 1le on the clean side (oil fill hole)

This in bold, along with additional cost (bean counters) and one more step that requires maintenance (don't forget to dump the can on a regular interval). Sometimes at the dealerships, they can't get the correct amount of oil between different engines. Now add, did they are did they not drain the cc?

[Jim J]

gajagfan, Thank you for info. Not trying to be a pain in the a$$,just looking for answers.

[gajagfan]

Originally Posted by Jim J

gajagfan, Thank you for info. Not trying to be a pain in the a$$,just looking for answers.

No problem. I by no means think a catch can does any harm to a non-direct injected engine, and many here feel good about having one. I am only stating that I do not believe they are required on our LS engines.

[Elite Engineering]

On any GDI engine these are a must, but the benefits for a port injection engine are also many:


Prevents excessive oil consumption by stopping the residue build-up on rings and in ringlands that can cause piston rings to not move freely.


Improves power by reducing KR due to oil caused detonation (you ONLY want air and fuel present during combustion. Any oil disrupts the burn and thus the energy released).


Improves MPG as the engine will run at optimum timing advance instead of KR pulling timing. Average MPG improvement with E2-X series is 1-3.


Other than that, the port injection engines are not subject to the intake valve coking issues all GDI engines are (as of 2016 ALL GM gas engines are now GDI) as the fuel would cool and keep them deposit free. GDI has not fuel touching the valves and anyone just has to pull their IM at 10k miles to see how severe this is. This also causes premature wear to the valve guides as these hard deposits are drawn up into the guides with each cycle. Also, as the deposits grow, of a larger chunk breaks loose, it can become trapped between the valve and seat allowing PTV contact and bent valves:


"]http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/valve%20bent%20by%20coking_zpslokaym2f.jpg.html][/URL]


And although BMW has a history of the worst severity, GM is a close second:





And although solvent based upper induction cleaners like Seafoam and BG can be safely used on port injection engines due to the "soft" carbon it loosens, on GDI engines great care must be used as the hard crystalline abrasive deposits ("hard carbon") when broken loose causes scouring (scratches) to pistons and cylinder walls and other damage. So, if you have a GDI engine w/more than say 10-15k miles,a MANUAL cleaning is the only safe way to clean the valves. The Elite E2 and E2-X systems prevent 95% plus of these deposits from forming as well.

[LT1Zob]

Originally Posted by gajagfan

The tremendous HP benefits of NPP should also be tackled during this CAI / Catch Can discussion.

[Midnight Rat]

Ordered a elite can today.

[Jim J]

lol

[gajagfan]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

On any GDI engine these are a must, but the benefits for a port injection engine are also many:


Prevents excessive oil consumption by stopping the residue build-up on rings and in ringlands that can cause piston rings to not move freely.


Improves power by reducing KR due to oil caused detonation (you ONLY want air and fuel present during combustion. Any oil disrupts the burn and thus the energy released).


Improves MPG as the engine will run at optimum timing advance instead of KR pulling timing. Average MPG improvement with E2-X series is 1-3.


Other than that, the port injection engines are not subject to the intake valve coking issues all GDI engines are (as of 2016 ALL GM gas engines are now GDI) as the fuel would cool and keep them deposit free. GDI has not fuel touching the valves and anyone just has to pull their IM at 10k miles to see how severe this is. This also causes premature wear to the valve guides as these hard deposits are drawn up into the guides with each cycle. Also, as the deposits grow, of a larger chunk breaks loose, it can become trapped between the valve and seat allowing PTV contact and bent valves:


"]http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/valve%20bent%20by%20coking_zpslokaym2f.jpg.html][/URL]


And although BMW has a history of the worst severity, GM is a close second:





And although solvent based upper induction cleaners like Seafoam and BG can be safely used on port injection engines due to the "soft" carbon it loosens, on GDI engines great care must be used as the hard crystalline abrasive deposits ("hard carbon") when broken loose causes scouring (scratches) to pistons and cylinder walls and other damage. So, if you have a GDI engine w/more than say 10-15k miles,a MANUAL cleaning is the only safe way to clean the valves. The Elite E2 and E2-X systems prevent 95% plus of these deposits from forming as well.

I appreciate this write up and would agree with everything you have said.

[Dropspeed]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

On any GDI engine these are a must, but the benefits for a port injection engine are also many:


Prevents excessive oil consumption by stopping the residue build-up on rings and in ringlands that can cause piston rings to not move freely.


Improves power by reducing KR due to oil caused detonation (you ONLY want air and fuel present during combustion. Any oil disrupts the burn and thus the energy released).


Improves MPG as the engine will run at optimum timing advance instead of KR pulling timing. Average MPG improvement with E2-X series is 1-3.


Other than that, the port injection engines are not subject to the intake valve coking issues all GDI engines are (as of 2016 ALL GM gas engines are now GDI) as the fuel would cool and keep them deposit free. GDI has not fuel touching the valves and anyone just has to pull their IM at 10k miles to see how severe this is. This also causes premature wear to the valve guides as these hard deposits are drawn up into the guides with each cycle. Also, as the deposits grow, of a larger chunk breaks loose, it can become trapped between the valve and seat allowing PTV contact and bent valves:


"]http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/valve%20bent%20by%20coking_zpslokaym2f.jpg.html][/URL]


And although BMW has a history of the worst severity, GM is a close second:





And although solvent based upper induction cleaners like Seafoam and BG can be safely used on port injection engines due to the "soft" carbon it loosens, on GDI engines great care must be used as the hard crystalline abrasive deposits ("hard carbon") when broken loose causes scouring (scratches) to pistons and cylinder walls and other damage. So, if you have a GDI engine w/more than say 10-15k miles,a MANUAL cleaning is the only safe way to clean the valves. The Elite E2 and E2-X systems prevent 95% plus of these deposits from forming as well.

How is GM able to offer 5 year/100K mile powertrain warranty with all of these contaminants in the engine?

How do LS (or any motors) survive with out a catch can to 200K + miles?

[Kendall421]

High mileage GM fuel injected engine with no catch can.

An ounce of prevention is worth its weight in gold IMO.

I cleaned this TB and intake up well. Improved power and fuel mileage significantly.

I have had a catch can on my 2014 1LE since 200 miles. 9000 miles now and all still clean. I empty the catch can regularly.

[davepnw]

I just installed an RX dual valve clean & dirty side unit on my 2010 2LT V-6, I have done just a little over 100 miles since then and have already captured several table spoons full of oil. The car has 23K miles so I am going to do a mechanical cleaning soon so That I will have a clean start on the problem. I will probably do a sea-foam maintenance cleaning every 15-20K miles thereafter. I have noticed a performance gain already. I was a doubter before, but am sold on the catch can now.

[gajagfan]

Originally Posted by Kendall421

High mileage GM fuel injected engine with no catch can.

An ounce of prevention is worth its weight in gold IMO.

I cleaned this TB and intake up well. Improved power and fuel mileage significantly.

I have had a catch can on my 2014 1LE since 200 miles. 9000 miles now and all still clean. I empty the catch can regularly.

Pictures like this always make me laugh! Three GM non-directed engine vehicles ('93 z/28, '01 WS6, '03 Tahoe), and all three lived to 200K miles or beyond. I had the air induction track off all three of these vehicles throughout the course of our owning them, and even in there at 200K or nearing 200K mileage did I ever see anything that came close to a throttle body that looked like this. What the hell are you guys doing, dumping a quart of oil into the air box each fill up to keep things lubed? We can not be driving our vehicles in any way different than most to have never seen anything like this. A slight sutty substance on the edge of the blade and on the throttle body at best, but nothing like this. And just to be clear, I understand that direct or non-direct has no effect on the condition of the throttle body. To me, there has to be something seriously wrong with an engine to produce this situation.

[sherob]

Holy Cow! I don't have a CC on my 1LE... just put a VMAX PTB on w/ 13k miles on the ODO... and my TB was sent back for core, it look new.

[markgws6]

Catch cans are illegal in CA unless they came with the car. So if I did install one, I'd just have to take it off in 3 years for inspection.