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Old 05-31-2016, 10:22 AM   #15
Bodywerks

 
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Not needed, but to do it 'right'.
I'll probably hold off on the rear end, as I don't intend to drag race.
I want the boost controller for torque management, and also to drop the boost/hp for daily 'spirited' driving.
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:13 PM   #16
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My stock clutch lasted me two years; one spirited daily driving then I discovered the drag strip. Lasted one season of that. Stock differential did fine but swapped that out when I upped the clutch figuring of break stuff. I have the sleeves bearings. Spool plenty fast.
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:40 PM   #17
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Boost controller is handy for switching from street to strip. Not necessary if only streeting the car. Spring pressure of 8# will cover street all too well but be prepared to buy new tires on a shorter periodicity basis.
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:28 PM   #18
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True! I ordered another pair because they were $220 each on closeout. don't need them yet but will in a couple months or depending how hard Andy is on them during tuning, which I'm sure can't be helped. Lol
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Old 05-31-2016, 04:08 PM   #19
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I'll be honest, I'm new to forced induction. My understanding is you can essentially control the torque curve with a boost controller. Or is there more to it than that? I assume a modified waste gate of sorts would be needed?
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:33 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by dreksnot View Post
My stock clutch lasted me two years; one spirited daily driving then I discovered the drag strip. Lasted one season of that. Stock differential did fine but swapped that out when I upped the clutch figuring of break stuff. I have the sleeves bearings. Spool plenty fast.
Did your clutch hold on the dyno?
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Bodywerks View Post
Did your clutch hold on the dyno?
Yes. Stock clutch held on the dyno okay.
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:14 PM   #22
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No mods to wastegates needed.

You can run a $50 boost controller, not a $300 one.

Stock clutch can last a long time at 600-650rwhp if you don't put a sticky drag radial on, or try to launch it.
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:28 PM   #23
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Horsepower will always find the weakest link. Either do the mods now or later. I did mine a little at a time. As for the clutch, I would recommend you go to a triple. Once you realize how easy it is to just turn up the boost, you will be doing just that, turning up the boost!

I paid 1300 for my ZL1 rear end, used with 10k miles on it, and that was shipped. Did DSS 1000hp axles, aluminum driveshaft, solid subframe bushings, and differential offset bushings. in total i have less than 4 grand in it all. Also did trailing arms, and toe rods.

My AEM TruBoost was less than 300, but thats not something you need to do right from the get go. same with the drivetrain mods, I would do the clutch sooner rather than later, but others have had some longevity out of the stock clutch.

Check out my build thread, and fee free to PM me about any questions with pricing or whatever. I had a lot more typed out for a reply on this thread, but I accidentally closed out the window, and lost all of my post. So this is the short version.
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:43 PM   #24
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Haha! Had to type twice, too cuz internet went out. Friggin technology...
Thanks for the response. Pretty sure I'll do the e85 conversion and bushings/trailing arms this summer, then turbo, then start replacing shit as it breaks, lol!
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:36 PM   #25
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GFB is a better controller than AEM.

There is a big difference between want, need, and extra features. You can have a $60 boost controller or a $1000 boost controller. Just depends on features you want.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
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I plan on going to the strip Wed to see how the new Monster Triple does, weather permitting. It seems to release fine at high RPMs on the street, but need to see how it releases after getting toasty hot doing strip stuff. I'll report back.
FWIW, Monster Triple held and released fine. Only had six runs at the strip though.
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LSX434 | AGP 65/65 TT | BTR Equalizer Intake | Trickflow 245cc cathedral | BTR custom cam | Cortex EBC | n2mb WOT | ID-1700x | Brisk GR12S | RPM Lv 7 TR6060 | AGP's Triple 525LPH Fore Fuel | Monster LT1-S Triple | 4.11 DSS Proform 9", CF driveshaft, 1400hp axles | Hurst Line Lock | MGW Retro Short Throw w/old skool Hurst T-handle | ADM solid subframe mounts | Prothane Motor Mounts | Revshift Poly Trans insert | Moreno camber/caster plates
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Old 06-03-2016, 07:31 PM   #27
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Cool. Not sure if I'll go monster or mantic
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HSA delete, VMAX throttle body, CAI inc. Intake, PRC255 heads, BTR 660 springs, BTR cryo-treated rockers, PAT G 232/240 .654/.626 110+2, johnson 2110's, Manton 502 pushrods, C5R, Melling high volume/high pressure, Powerbond 25% underdrive pulley, Proform covers, Kooks stepped headers, catless mids, Doug Thorley exhaust. 512rwhp, 446rwtq on a mustang dyno, tuned by Cunningham motorsports.
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Old 06-04-2016, 01:07 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1KillerSS View Post
Horsepower will always find the weakest link. Either do the mods now or later. I did mine a little at a time. As for the clutch, I would recommend you go to a triple. Once you realize how easy it is to just turn up the boost, you will be doing just that, turning up the boost!

I paid 1300 for my ZL1 rear end, used with 10k miles on it, and that was shipped. Did DSS 1000hp axles, aluminum driveshaft, solid subframe bushings, and differential offset bushings. in total i have less than 4 grand in it all. Also did trailing arms, and toe rods.

My AEM TruBoost was less than 300, but thats not something you need to do right from the get go. same with the drivetrain mods, I would do the clutch sooner rather than later, but others have had some longevity out of the stock clutch.

Check out my build thread, and fee free to PM me about any questions with pricing or whatever. I had a lot more typed out for a reply on this thread, but I accidentally closed out the window, and lost all of my post. So this is the short version.
I'm looking for a zl1 trans and rear end if you know where to get one for a good deal
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