Anyone else have issues with a line lock? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Trob85 · 06-11-2016, 10:40 PM

Went to the track and had problems last week not a good 60' and somewhat dead through the 1/8 mile. Went back today hoping to try and do some improvements well things got worse. Tried the line lock to get a good burnout in and typical traction control nannies came on. Well went to make a pass car left hard and then just fell on its ass before the 60' mark and it felt like it was just cruising until slowly going through the rpms until it shifted to 3rd then all the power came back in, all the boost but the traction control lights were still on and it began running funny like it was in a little limp mode and pulled a ton of timing to compensate. I don't have my slip but I remember the 60' was 1.9 and the full run was 13:9? @ 97. Second run didn't use the line lock and didn't leave at the higher rpm trying to get it figured out. This time it did almost the exact same thing all the nannies came on even though I didn't use the line lock and it just crept through the rpms until shifting into third then all the power came back. Dose anyone else have this problem after using the line lock? And it's not belt slip I checked.

ttshovel · 06-11-2016, 11:12 PM

No issues here. Make sure all nannies are off before your burnout. I pump the brakes to get the linelock to hold better, flip the switch to turn it off and roll out of the box. Make sure you make the pass with it all off too as the nannies will pull timing

Your service stabilitrack light will be on until you restart the car and drive it for it to see the front wheels spinning again

lincoln361 · 06-12-2016, 05:25 AM

Which line lock do you have. I have the hurst line lock and have not had a problem with it other than having the momentary switch go out, which i replaced for a dollar.

Trob85 · 06-12-2016, 07:53 AM

Yep have the hurst line lock and did everything I was supposed to do.

Mr. Nasty · 06-12-2016, 08:41 AM

Did you try pulling fuse and relay?? I have no on and off switch its straight wired. Just a hold button. It works fine that way with no issues.

Mr. Nasty · 06-12-2016, 08:49 AM

Pull fuse #40 and relay #43 That will kill all nannies.

SingleT · 06-12-2016, 09:14 AM

Why pull the fuses instead of just turning the nannies off?

Mr. Nasty · 06-12-2016, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SingleT

Why pull the fuses instead of just turning the nannies off?

When I just turned off nannies I had issues with it pulling timing. Pull the fuse and relay and go. Mine has been out for a while now. I have not put them back in but my car is not a DD. It's a weekend and track car.

Mr. Nasty · 06-12-2016, 09:52 AM

OP did you get your tune checked after the first time with it.

SingleT · 06-12-2016, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Nasty

When I just turned off nannies I had issues with it pulling timing. Pull the fuse and relay and go. Mine has been out for a while now. I have not put them back in but my car is not a DD. It's a weekend and track car.

You're using Maf still? I've switched to SD. I've never noticed an issue with being on SD

trz174 · 06-12-2016, 11:02 AM

The fuse and relay pull works fine and exactly as Mr Nasty said. You can also wire a relay to momentarily interrupt the ABS fuse when the line lock button is activated. There are several posts on this and at least one has a wiring diagram. The advantage is that the relay option shuts off the ABS when you engage the roll control and puts everything back to normal when you release the button. No reset time needed and it doesn't light up the dash. You can then select any drive mode you want as you pull up to the line. This lets you adjust the drive modes for slippery track conditions when going for bracket consistency vs fastest ET. If you only go with one mode (all nannies off), then the simplest method by far is to pull the ABS fuse and ABS relay. Pull them when you get to the track and put them back in when you leave and before you run Autocross. When you pull the ABS relay, it shuts down all the nannies including the ones you can't access from the mode button. This helped resolve the "sudden nose dive" I'd get about 100 ft out when it hooked hard on DRs or slicks. Removing the ABS relay also increases your power steering effort. This actually makes it easier to drive down the strip with a manual. Make sure you test it first so you don't get a surprise when you try to make that really tight turn at the first track exit. Ask me how I know...

Trob85 · 06-12-2016, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Nasty

OP did you get your tune checked after the first time with it.

I have not and with street car takeover coming this weekend my tuner will be busy with his own car but and since I couldn't get the car to act right the first time I wanted to try again before I had to trailer it an hour to have it looked at. I know we will tweet the tune we're going to do some street launches so we can see exactly what is going on. I will pull the fuses though since mine is a weekend race car and see what that does.

Mr. Nasty · 06-12-2016, 02:34 PM

Right or wrong fuse and relay stay out. Line lock is straight wired I have only a push button to lock.

06-11-2016, 10:40 PM	#1
Trob85 Svt lol Drives: 2011 ss inferno orange blown Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Topeka Posts: 2,312	Anyone else have issues with a line lock? Went to the track and had problems last week not a good 60' and somewhat dead through the 1/8 mile. Went back today hoping to try and do some improvements well things got worse. Tried the line lock to get a good burnout in and typical traction control nannies came on. Well went to make a pass car left hard and then just fell on its ass before the 60' mark and it felt like it was just cruising until slowly going through the rpms until it shifted to 3rd then all the power came back in, all the boost but the traction control lights were still on and it began running funny like it was in a little limp mode and pulled a ton of timing to compensate. I don't have my slip but I remember the 60' was 1.9 and the full run was 13:9? @ 97. Second run didn't use the line lock and didn't leave at the higher rpm trying to get it figured out. This time it did almost the exact same thing all the nannies came on even though I didn't use the line lock and it just crept through the rpms until shifting into third then all the power came back. Dose anyone else have this problem after using the line lock? And it's not belt slip I checked. __________________ plasti dip is not a mod.......and a cold air intake doesn't make you fast!

06-11-2016, 11:12 PM	#2
ttshovel Drives: 12 camaro ss, 72 chevelle, 91camaro Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: findlay,oh Posts: 2,070	No issues here. Make sure all nannies are off before your burnout. I pump the brakes to get the linelock to hold better, flip the switch to turn it off and roll out of the box. Make sure you make the pass with it all off too as the nannies will pull timing Your service stabilitrack light will be on until you restart the car and drive it for it to see the front wheels spinning again __________________ 12 camaro ss 427lsx, th400, f310 heads, crower shaft mounts, gpi specd solid roller, shearerfab 2k hp a/w, twin bullseye 88mm turbos, hughes pro ssx bolt together converter, holley dominator, 8.50 cert, backhalf, Ford 9", 33x17x16 tires, c16 fuel

06-12-2016, 05:25 AM	#3
lincoln361 Drives: 2011 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: corpus christi tx Posts: 1,046 View My Garage	Which line lock do you have. I have the hurst line lock and have not had a problem with it other than having the momentary switch go out, which i replaced for a dollar. __________________ SLP TVS 2300- 1 7/8 LG Headers- RDS NX Plate- 75 Shot- No Cats- SLP Loudmouth 2- NW102- 3.8 Pulley- OD Cog drive-12lbs boost-FIC 80# injectors-ZL1 Fuel Pump- RotoFab CAI- Apex CAI Scoop- Pat G Tune- Weld RTS drag pack- BMR Trailing Arms- BMR 1'' Drop Springs-BMR Lower Control Arms- BMR Toe Rods- BMR Rear Cradle Bushings- BMR Upper Control Arm Bushings- BMR Extreme Anti- Rollbar- Hotchkis Subframe Brace- Prosport Evo Boost & F/A Ratio

06-12-2016, 08:41 AM	#5
Mr. Nasty Emerald Coast Camaros Drives: 2010 RS/SS Rally Yellow & 68 SS Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Woodville,FL. Posts: 1,814	Did you try pulling fuse and relay?? I have no on and off switch its straight wired. Just a hold button. It works fine that way with no issues. __________________ Best @ 586/525 =10.41 @ 133 AS OF 12/13/14>633 RWHP =10.22@135 AS OF 1/31/15 @ 633 RWHP=10.16@135 AS OF 1/29/16 @ 633 RWHP=10.10@136 TOPED 700 PASSES AFTER F.I. AND STILL ON THE ORIGIANAL STOCK AXLE & DIFF

06-12-2016, 08:49 AM	#6
Mr. Nasty Emerald Coast Camaros Drives: 2010 RS/SS Rally Yellow & 68 SS Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Woodville,FL. Posts: 1,814	Pull fuse #40 and relay #43 That will kill all nannies. __________________ Best @ 586/525 =10.41 @ 133 AS OF 12/13/14>633 RWHP =10.22@135 AS OF 1/31/15 @ 633 RWHP=10.16@135 AS OF 1/29/16 @ 633 RWHP=10.10@136 TOPED 700 PASSES AFTER F.I. AND STILL ON THE ORIGIANAL STOCK AXLE & DIFF

06-12-2016, 07:53 AM	#4
Trob85 Svt lol Drives: 2011 ss inferno orange blown Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Topeka Posts: 2,312	Yep have the hurst line lock and did everything I was supposed to do. __________________ plasti dip is not a mod.......and a cold air intake doesn't make you fast! Last edited by Trob85; 06-12-2016 at 08:05 AM.

06-12-2016, 09:14 AM	#7
SingleT Drives: 2015 2SS Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: LA Posts: 155	Why pull the fuses instead of just turning the nannies off?

06-12-2016, 09:52 AM	#9
Mr. Nasty Emerald Coast Camaros Drives: 2010 RS/SS Rally Yellow & 68 SS Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Woodville,FL. Posts: 1,814	OP did you get your tune checked after the first time with it. __________________ Best @ 586/525 =10.41 @ 133 AS OF 12/13/14>633 RWHP =10.22@135 AS OF 1/31/15 @ 633 RWHP=10.16@135 AS OF 1/29/16 @ 633 RWHP=10.10@136 TOPED 700 PASSES AFTER F.I. AND STILL ON THE ORIGIANAL STOCK AXLE & DIFF

06-12-2016, 11:02 AM	#11
trz174 Drives: . Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: . Posts: 559	The fuse and relay pull works fine and exactly as Mr Nasty said. You can also wire a relay to momentarily interrupt the ABS fuse when the line lock button is activated. There are several posts on this and at least one has a wiring diagram. The advantage is that the relay option shuts off the ABS when you engage the roll control and puts everything back to normal when you release the button. No reset time needed and it doesn't light up the dash. You can then select any drive mode you want as you pull up to the line. This lets you adjust the drive modes for slippery track conditions when going for bracket consistency vs fastest ET. If you only go with one mode (all nannies off), then the simplest method by far is to pull the ABS fuse and ABS relay. Pull them when you get to the track and put them back in when you leave and before you run Autocross. When you pull the ABS relay, it shuts down all the nannies including the ones you can't access from the mode button. This helped resolve the "sudden nose dive" I'd get about 100 ft out when it hooked hard on DRs or slicks. Removing the ABS relay also increases your power steering effort. This actually makes it easier to drive down the strip with a manual. Make sure you test it first so you don't get a surprise when you try to make that really tight turn at the first track exit. Ask me how I know...

06-12-2016, 02:34 PM	#13
Mr. Nasty Emerald Coast Camaros Drives: 2010 RS/SS Rally Yellow & 68 SS Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Woodville,FL. Posts: 1,814	Right or wrong fuse and relay stay out. Line lock is straight wired I have only a push button to lock. __________________ Best @ 586/525 =10.41 @ 133 AS OF 12/13/14>633 RWHP =10.22@135 AS OF 1/31/15 @ 633 RWHP=10.16@135 AS OF 1/29/16 @ 633 RWHP=10.10@136 TOPED 700 PASSES AFTER F.I. AND STILL ON THE ORIGIANAL STOCK AXLE & DIFF