--Important read-- Engine Oil Tech - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Anthony @ LG Motorsports · 11-03-2012, 02:48 PM

Let's look a bit more in depth on why these 'micro brew' oils are so much better than say a normal Mobile 1.

Within the U.S. right now you may think you only have the choice of conventional and synthetic engine oils to choose from. While that is partially true the base stock that the oil is produced from can also radically change the properties of the oil itself, synthetic or not.

Within the Synthetic oils you have three classifications, Group 3, Group 4, and Group 5 oils. Group 3 oils are re-refined petroleum products and are the least expensive until recently they could not be classified as synthetic. Group 4 oils are PAO oils (Poly-Alpha-Olefine) and they are a synthesized petroleum product that has better protection against heat, oxidation, and better flow at low temperatures. The draw back to this oil is they need plenty of oil pressure to provide an effective protection film on the parts they protect. Both Group 3 and Group 4 oils are mineral based.

Lastly we have the Group 5 oils, which are Ester based (diester, polyoesters, and complex esters) which are vegetable and animal based

Red Line and Motul engine oils are currently the only two engine oils you can obtain that start from a Synthetic Ester base. This Ester base forms and electro-chemical bond with your engine components so there is an even less chance of metal to metal contact on cold start up or low oil pressure conditions. This bond is something that the Group 3 and Group 4 oils do not have because of their base material make up even if they have a higher level of ZDDP additives. The other big benefit of an Ester based oil is that they have very little in the way of deposits if they do burn under extreme conditions so there is no build up inside hot engine parts, and this is especially important for those running turbos on their cars.

Further reading on Esters
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...94#Post1252272

WheelmanSS · 11-03-2012, 03:25 PM

You guys are awesome. Thanks for the in-depth analysis. It has been a real eye-opener. Glad I can make the right choices when I do my new build this coming spring. The joe Gibbs products will be a perfect fit.

camarostar2010 · 11-03-2012, 07:02 PM

yes thank you for the info...I love these threads

Rockit_z28 · 11-27-2012, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zach@HeintzRacing

Very good information here guys. Again, this needs to be read by everyone. We too have came across more cam/lifter issues in the last 12 months.

Use a quality oil, and keep it changed frequently.

Zach

Yet another reason why I always bring the car to you guys.

Well, on brief occasions, I do have you pick it up.

Scott@Bjorn3D · 11-27-2012, 06:47 AM

Lots of oil samples here in the first post.

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html

Dmpsix · 06-20-2016, 12:44 PM

Reviving this thread because the information is priceless.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/b...oil-15868html/

So how many oil changes would be a good idea for an initial cam break in?

hammdo · 06-20-2016, 05:20 PM

I did BR30 for the first hour, drained and refilled (with new filter) with BR30 for about 100 miles (good to 500 but no more). After that, LS30. That is basically what Driven Suggested to do.

BR30 for 30 min to 1 hour, drain and refill (new filter) with BR30 for 100-500 miles. Drain and fill with LS30 (new filter) after break-in, then, normal oil change cycle...

Over 10K miles on my cam/heads/lifters since the initial break-in...

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...tech-bulletin/

-Don

badass1000 · 06-21-2016, 02:01 PM

I just did cam, lifters, etc.. top end. I pulled the pan and cleaned the pan out and oil pickup tube/screen. I covered every thing with lucas synthetic assembly lube on assembly. I put some cheap penzoil 5w30 in and basically just let it idle up to operating temp. reved it just a little to 2,000 rpms a couple times. Dumped the oil and changed the filter. dumped the oil hot right after I shut it off. put a new filter on and put in some br30. I will run it for 300-400 miles street driving and change it again. I will put a new filter on. still undecided on what oil to run. and probably double check lifter preload at that time.
I might stick to the ls30, but kind of want a little thicker oil. like 10/40. Engine builder recommended Valvoline vr1 20/50. That is what was in it when the lifters went out.

11-03-2012, 03:25 PM	#30
WheelmanSS Logic is dead Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 1,804	You guys are awesome. Thanks for the in-depth analysis. It has been a real eye-opener. Glad I can make the right choices when I do my new build this coming spring. The joe Gibbs products will be a perfect fit. __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS (LS3) 573 RWHP 498 RWTQ - Vortech V3 Supercharger - Kooks Stepped Headers, Magnaflow 16580 - Suspension by Pfadt, Hotchkis. 2007 Trailblazer SS- Sold 2001 Trans Am WS6 431 RWHP 408 RWTQ - Sold 1994 Camaro Z28 - Sold

06-20-2016, 05:20 PM	#35
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,709 View My Garage	I did BR30 for the first hour, drained and refilled (with new filter) with BR30 for about 100 miles (good to 500 but no more). After that, LS30. That is basically what Driven Suggested to do. BR30 for 30 min to 1 hour, drain and refill (new filter) with BR30 for 100-500 miles. Drain and fill with LS30 (new filter) after break-in, then, normal oil change cycle... Over 10K miles on my cam/heads/lifters since the initial break-in... http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...tech-bulletin/ -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

11-03-2012, 02:48 PM	#29
Anthony @ LG Motorsports Drives: 1994 1LE / 2006 Z51 Corvette Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Plano, TX Posts: 2,829	Let's look a bit more in depth on why these 'micro brew' oils are so much better than say a normal Mobile 1. Within the U.S. right now you may think you only have the choice of conventional and synthetic engine oils to choose from. While that is partially true the base stock that the oil is produced from can also radically change the properties of the oil itself, synthetic or not. Within the Synthetic oils you have three classifications, Group 3, Group 4, and Group 5 oils. Group 3 oils are re-refined petroleum products and are the least expensive until recently they could not be classified as synthetic. Group 4 oils are PAO oils (Poly-Alpha-Olefine) and they are a synthesized petroleum product that has better protection against heat, oxidation, and better flow at low temperatures. The draw back to this oil is they need plenty of oil pressure to provide an effective protection film on the parts they protect. Both Group 3 and Group 4 oils are mineral based. Lastly we have the Group 5 oils, which are Ester based (diester, polyoesters, and complex esters) which are vegetable and animal based Red Line and Motul engine oils are currently the only two engine oils you can obtain that start from a Synthetic Ester base. This Ester base forms and electro-chemical bond with your engine components so there is an even less chance of metal to metal contact on cold start up or low oil pressure conditions. This bond is something that the Group 3 and Group 4 oils do not have because of their base material make up even if they have a higher level of ZDDP additives. The other big benefit of an Ester based oil is that they have very little in the way of deposits if they do burn under extreme conditions so there is no build up inside hot engine parts, and this is especially important for those running turbos on their cars. Further reading on Esters http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...94#Post1252272

11-03-2012, 07:02 PM	#31
camarostar2010 Drives: 2011 SS Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: new jersey Posts: 379	yes thank you for the info...I love these threads

11-27-2012, 06:47 AM	#33
Scott@Bjorn3D Drives: Kami, 2013 2SS LS3 Luvin Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Eufaula, Alabama Posts: 6,427	Lots of oil samples here in the first post. http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html

06-20-2016, 12:44 PM	#34
Dmpsix Drives: Black L99 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,862	Reviving this thread because the information is priceless. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/b...oil-15868html/ So how many oil changes would be a good idea for an initial cam break in?

06-21-2016, 02:01 PM	#36
badass1000 Drives: 2010 SS. YSI and Built 416 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Meridian, ID Posts: 51	I just did cam, lifters, etc.. top end. I pulled the pan and cleaned the pan out and oil pickup tube/screen. I covered every thing with lucas synthetic assembly lube on assembly. I put some cheap penzoil 5w30 in and basically just let it idle up to operating temp. reved it just a little to 2,000 rpms a couple times. Dumped the oil and changed the filter. dumped the oil hot right after I shut it off. put a new filter on and put in some br30. I will run it for 300-400 miles street driving and change it again. I will put a new filter on. still undecided on what oil to run. and probably double check lifter preload at that time. I might stick to the ls30, but kind of want a little thicker oil. like 10/40. Engine builder recommended Valvoline vr1 20/50. That is what was in it when the lifters went out.