Freaking out after finding rust...

[Tenring]

I love how all the engineers keep saying this is an easy fix. All of you experts please provide detailed drawings of the proposed structural fix, complete with all the calculation/formulas, material selection, weld size and type etc........

Please also provide a written transferable warranty guaranteeing that "your fix" will not force more stresses to the original "non fixed" components forcing them to fail. The OP will need this guarantee when he goes to sell the Camaro to prove a redneck fix was not used.

[Spurshot]

Originally Posted by Tenring

I love how all the engineers keep saying this is an easy fix. All of you experts please provide detailed drawings of the proposed structural fix, complete with all the calculation/formulas, material selection, weld size and type etc........

Please also provide a written transferable warranty guaranteeing that "your fix" will not force more stresses to the original "non fixed" components forcing them to fail. The OP will need this guarantee when he goes to sell the Camaro to prove a redneck fix was not used.

So, to the crusher it should go!

[Tenring]

Originally Posted by Spurshot

So, to the crusher it should go!

I would have to disagree with you on this, not time for the crusher yet, it needs to be corrected the right way.

[Pi kappa alpha]

Originally Posted by LCPLPunk

Haha, it's Sunday here, so none of the dealer's service sections are open. :P

So here seem to be my options:

1. Talk to Chevrolet and hope they honor the 6 year corrosion warranty
2. Try to utilize Hawaii's 5 year used car warranty (the car is 6 years old) and have Kia fix or take back the vehicle
3. Fix the vehicle myself

It seems that half you guys say 'take it back' and the other 'that's an easy fix' which I find quite amusing.

You expect there to be a consensus on what to do when no one has physically seen the car and we have to go on the pictures you posted? wow

[LCPLPunk]

Oh I wasn't expecting a consensus per se, but the responses go from 'you are a whisper away from death' to 'just patch it up and call it a day'...

[68rssscamaro]

C'mon-really guys..The OP is here to get advice, and he got it and will make his own decision. No need to dig the screw driver deeper. There are many threads like this where pics are the only thing to go by.

[Spurshot]

Originally Posted by Tenring

I love how all the engineers keep saying this is an easy fix. All of you experts please provide detailed drawings of the proposed structural fix, complete with all the calculation/formulas, material selection, weld size and type etc........

Please also provide a written transferable warranty guaranteeing that "your fix" will not force more stresses to the original "non fixed" components forcing them to fail. The OP will need this guarantee when he goes to sell the Camaro to prove a redneck fix was not used.

With all due respect, no drawings, calculations/formulas, weld specs and such is necessary. The common and conservative engineering method would be to cut out all the affected area, make a replacement filler from the same gauge 1018 or 1020 steel, weld it in flush, grind the welds down and then make an overlapping doubler to bridge the filler to the original parent material. This approach ensures the repair is unlikely to fail.

As for transferring the load to other areas, this would also be true of the original design. If you look at the structure, it is near the corner of the heavily loaded area and loads are not likely to change paths. Additionally, this part didn't fail in fatigue and therefore stiffening it is unlikely to change anything.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=404066

[Spurshot]

If you want to do the work....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-2015-Ca...item58d2793d1b

[LCPLPunk]

I saw that and I think there was another for $600, but I don't think they'd want to ship here. :P

[Spurshot]

I think you need to find out how big the problem really is. If no other areas are affected, a repair is likely a good option. If it's widespread in the subframe, it may need to be replaced. If it's widespread in other areas of the car, ... we don't need to go there.

[Tenring]

Originally Posted by Spurshot

With all due respect, no drawings, calculations/formulas, weld specs and such is necessary. The common and conservative engineering method would be to cut out all the affected area, make a replacement filler from the same gauge 1018 or 1020 steel, weld it in flush, grind the welds down and then make an overlapping doubler to bridge the filler to the original parent material. This approach ensures the repair is unlikely to fail.

As for transferring the load to other areas, this would also be true of the original design. If you look at the structure, it is near the corner of the heavily loaded area and loads are not likely to change paths. Additionally, this part didn't fail in fatigue and therefore stiffening it is unlikely to change anything.

I understand I am painting with a sky is falling brush in an effort to point something out. Your comments and disclaimers above support what I am saying.

Would I fix and drive the car myself......if I was forced too probably. Would I let my wife or kids drive it after a welded fix even by a reputable shop... NO. I would be in a fight with the selling dealer to replace the compromised structural parts for sure, I would not just let them fix it.

The good news is, on Oahu most of the time you cannot get going fast enough to worry how the crumple zones are going to function in a high speed head on collision.

OP......I am very sorry you are having to deal with this, it is not right. All the best getting it resolved to your satisfaction and Thank You for your service.

[LCPLPunk]

I really don't see any other affected areas of the frame, it looks somewhat concentrated in that area.

Thanks all for the advice!

[Spurshot]

I understand your concerns. I don't see that heavy corner of the frame being a "crumple zone" nor an affect on such structure. As for having the dealer replace the sub or buy the car back, I think he's unlikely to get that to happen, given what he's said about the contract and the HI state law we all had opportunity to read. Maybe there's something else in the federal consumer law he can leverage.

[HuJass]

Originally Posted by Spurshot

The common and conservative engineering method would be to cut out all the affected area, make a replacement filler from the same gauge 1018 or 1020 steel, weld it in flush, grind the welds down and then make an overlapping doubler to bridge the filler to the original parent material. This approach ensures the repair is unlikely to fail.

How do you explain the repair to a potential buyer?