Burning oil

[JUSTIFIED]

I had the oil changed at 5500 miles and the oil level was right at the top of the hatched portion of dipstick. I now have 7200 miles on the odo.

Today I checked (after waiting 5 mins) and it was just at the bottom of the hatched portion of the dipstick. I added a 1/4 of a qt, which increased the oil to the mid-point on hatched portion. I don't bury my foot in it all the time, but I do some spirited driving. I also I followed the break in procedures. I'm not noticing any blue smoke on start up so it doesn't seem to be a valve seal issue.

Going to call my dealer tomorrow, but am wondering if anyone else has experienced this?

[s.hammer]

I haven't noticed mine burning any oil yet, 3100 miles, but other GM vehicles I have owned can burn up to a quart+ every 3000 miles.

[havelegs]

Burning oil is normal.

[1KillerSS]

Welcome to GM engines. That is completely normal.

Part of the reason why catch cans are so popular. You have oil vapor being sucked into your engine, that alone will cause you to loose some oil, granted it's a small amount, but you get the point.

[wakespeak]

Hmm try checking the oil next time the day after the change. Seems like I recall my father -in law's Corvette GS with dry sump was difficult to get an accurate oil level reading. It could be once the engine is started after the oil change and run a bit the level will settle at a new point.

[chip4]

These dry sump systems have a very short window where you can accurately check the correct oil level -so short in fact I even use my phones stop watch and follow the manual precisely, 5-10min after shutdown. Temperatures have to >175F (Oil temp).

I changed my oil 2k miles ago and have not seen the level change, I also use an Ester based synthetic oil which has been known to have less evaporation compared to other synthetics.

[JUSTIFIED]

Originally Posted by chip4

These dry sump systems have a very short window where you can accurately check the correct oil level -so short in fact I even use my phones stop watch and follow the manual precisely, 5-10min after shutdown. Temperatures have to >175F (Oil temp).

I changed my oil 2k miles ago and have not seen the level change, I also use an Ester based synthetic oil which has been known to have less evaporation compared to other synthetics.

Thanks. I've been waiting exactly 5 minutes. My service person told me today that per GM, 1 quart/2000 miles is not considered excessive for the LS7. They have offered to do a consumption test. I'll keep an eye on it and may have the test performed. Strangely enough this has happened before and after putting more oil in, it didn't appear to burn any additional oil after 3000 miles.

[JUSTIFIED]

Originally Posted by wakespeak

Hmm try checking the oil next time the day after the change. Seems like I recall my father -in law's Corvette GS with dry sump was difficult to get an accurate oil level reading. It could be once the engine is started after the oil change and run a bit the level will settle at a new point.

Thanks. I checked it right after the last oil change and it measured just at the top of hatched area.

[L99CAMA2011]

Were you on even, flat surface, what oil are you using? Also I don't think 5 mins is good enough to let the oil settle and give more accurate readings. I usually wait 15 mins to 20 on my LS3 with cam upgrade.

[Elite Engineering]

These engines generally don't burn oil as long as you did the break in properly and the rings seated fully. If you follow the owners manual odds are the rings will never seat properly before the hard glaze sets in covering the cross hatch. Then blow-by is excessive and oil consumption as well.


Those that follow the GM tech instructions rarely burn any between changes:





I'm sure plenty will join in and share their experience.

[69L48Z27]

Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011

Were you on even, flat surface, what oil are you using? Also I don't think 5 mins is good enough to let the oil settle and give more accurate readings. I usually wait 15 mins to 20 on my LS3 with cam upgrade.

This is dry sump. You measure the oil in the sump can not the oil pan. The oil will eventually run in the pan as the car sits. They want you to check oil in a 5-10 window since the lines and sump tank need to stabilize. Any longer you'll show low level.

You would be hard pressed to see a difference on a wet sump from when you shut it off to an hour later.

[69L48Z27]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

These engines generally don't burn oil as long as you did the break in properly and the rings seated fully. If you follow the owners manual odds are the rings will never seat properly before the hard glaze sets in covering the cross hatch. Then blow-by is excessive and oil consumption as well.


Those that follow the GM tech instructions rarely burn any between changes:





I'm sure plenty will join in and share their experience.

The owners manual says 1500 miles under 4000 rpm. That's crazy. I did a GMPP crate LS3 before with the instructions you have below and it worked great.

[1KillerSS]

Those instructions are basically how FSP did my clutch and engine, only they used a dyno for the whole process.