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Old 08-05-2016, 08:33 PM   #17305
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Originally Posted by witenite View Post
Yeah, looks like they did a great job!
Thank you . I appreciate it. I know it seems silly to most but it is like having a brand new pair of all white shoes. First time you wear them hit them on something and a big, black scuff mark....
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:39 PM   #17306
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Thank you . I appreciate it. I know it seems silly to most but it is like having a brand new pair of all white shoes. First time you wear them hit them on something and a big, black scuff mark....
Ya live, ya learn... you'll be taking them turns wider now...
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:42 PM   #17307
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Originally Posted by Mr. Stacy View Post
Go ahead and ship it. I GUARANTEE you I will not pay a dime.

I started a thread about it in the vendor section if you want to come up with some more lame excuses.

Like first you were telling me my end-links and brackets are JUST FINE. Shows you know nothing about your product and could care less about your customers experience and/or safety.
What ever happened to the golden rule of business (THE CUSTOMER IS ALWAYS! RIGHT)

Mr.Stacy I strongly recommend going all BMR ,I have there sway bars ,end links ,tabs ,toe arms ,trailing arms ,outer trailing bushing, and there pro cradle bushings,subframe connectors and tunnel brace. There parts are all extremely high quality work perfectly together. They come in a super strong red or black powder coat (your choice ) very fair price too.

Best of all Summit Racing keeps everything in Stock in red or black with free shipping and the best customer service in the industry
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:42 PM   #17308
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Ya live, ya learn... you'll be taking them turns wider now...
Ya know that's right
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:46 PM   #17309
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Originally Posted by davidscamaro View Post
What ever happened to the golden rule of business (THE CUSTOMER IS ALWAYS! RIGHT)

Mr.Stacy I strongly recommend going all BMR ,I have there sway bars ,end links ,tabs ,toe arms ,trailing arms ,outer trailing bushing, and there pro cradle bushings,subframe connectors and tunnel brace. There parts are all extremely high quality work perfectly together. They come in a super strong red or black powder coat (your choice ) very fair price too.

Best of all Summit Racing keeps everything in Stock in red or black with free shipping and the best customer service in the industry
Awesome... and he makes an important point. Whatever you go with, stick to that when buying supporting parts. Its all engineered to work together... Both Hotchkis and BMR make quality products.
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:55 PM   #17310
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Definitely nothing wrong with hotchkis quality products.
But BMR offers everything with out having to mix and match brands to get a complete setup. My vote will always be BMR for suspension
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:00 PM   #17311
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I have used both on my 93 Z. Different beast I know. But both make excellent parts. Just had trouble with the tunnel brace on a lowered car. Kept hitting the ground on bumps from BMR. But they make excellent parts
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:03 PM   #17312
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Nice job on the wheel repair.
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:05 PM   #17313
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Originally Posted by davidscamaro View Post
Definitely nothing wrong with hotchkis quality products.
But BMR offers everything with out having to mix and match brands to get a complete setup. My vote will always be BMR for suspension
Agreed. Hotchkis takes you so far... Along side the Hotchkis kit, I'm wearing a BMR Strut Bar, and BMR Front and Rear End bushings. Hotchkis offers a strut bar, but I went with the BMR instead for no real particular reason, and I love it. Hotchkis does not offer bushings for these rides, nor any additional suspension parts aside from shocks and struts.

I will say though that for daily ride-ability, and speaking from experience, Hotchkis did a much better job than what I was expecting. If you're not planning to redo your entire suspension, the set will be very much to your liking.

I can't speak for the BMR springs nor whether they're harsher... I do know they lower the car more than 1".
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:25 PM   #17314
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Originally Posted by Spec View Post
Agreed. Hotchkis takes you so far... Along side the Hotchkis kit, I'm wearing a BMR Strut Bar, and BMR Front and Rear End bushings. Hotchkis offers a strut bar, but I went with the BMR instead for no real particular reason, and I love it. Hotchkis does not offer bushings for these rides, nor any additional suspension parts aside from shocks and struts.

I will say though that for daily ride-ability, and speaking from experience, Hotchkis did a much better job than what I was expecting. If you're not planning to redo your entire suspension, the set will be very much to your liking.

I can't speak for the BMR springs nor whether they're harsher... I do know they lower the car more than 1".
I worked out the issue with Maryland. I'll be getting the Hotchkis end-links all around and it seems BMR is the only one who makes the bracket, so I will be getting that as well.
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:33 PM   #17315
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I worked out the issue with Maryland. I'll be getting the Hotchkis end-links all around and it seems BMR is the only one who makes the bracket, so I will be getting that as well.
Great to hear things got worked out...


Lastly, don't forget to time your bushings!

This applies when lowering a 5th gen with stock bushings. Oh, and you'll need an alignment.

From the BMR guy...

---

For years we have told our customers to tighten all suspension components with the vehicle at rest and the suspension loaded. This means that the vehicle is at ride height (static height), not with the suspension hanging. Tightening a bolt with the suspension hanging puts the bushing in a pre-loaded state since the bushings will already be "twisted" when the vehicle is set to static height. This can create irregular ride heights, premature bushing wear, and even inconsistent handling tendencies.

Lowering your car creates the same problem. All of your bushings are already tightened in the OE position. When you lower the car, the suspension rotates to the new lowered position while your bushings are still "clocked" in the original position. Loosening the bolts and bouncing the car a few times will "re-clock" or "time" the bushing to the new position.

So which bushings do you need to re-clock? Basically every component in the front and rear suspension that rotates on a rubber bushing. This includes the following:

FRONT:
Inner control arm bushings
Inner radius rod bushings

REAR:
Inner and outer toe rod bushings
Inner and outer trailing arm bushings
Inner control arm bushings
Lower shock mount bushings
Rear upper control arm bushings

With the vehicle resting on the suspension, loosen these bolts up loose enough to spin the nut by hand. Bounce the car up and down to pop any sticking bushings loose from the mounts, then re-tighten the bolts.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153188

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Old 08-05-2016, 09:42 PM   #17316
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Originally Posted by Mr. Stacy View Post
I worked out the issue with Maryland. I'll be getting the Hotchkis end-links all around and it seems BMR is the only one who makes the bracket, so I will be getting that as well.
Glad you both worked it out.
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:13 PM   #17317
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Great to hear things got worked out...


Lastly, don't forget to time your bushings!

This applies when lowering a 5th gen
Rats, just got an alignment two days ago.

Oh well, it was only about $60 and they did a great job.

So after the 25mm spacers, Hotchkis front and rear sway bars, Hotchkis end links all around, Chassis Max Brace, BMR reinforced brackets and Hotchkis springs, I'll do the timing and then get the alignment.



Thanks for the diagram. That looks less intimidating than I had imagined.
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Last edited by Mr. Stacy; 08-06-2016 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 08-06-2016, 01:49 AM   #17318
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People want me to paint my calipers. Well I looked at them today, they are painted silver. I just need to clean them.

I mean the calipers, not the people....
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