JANNETTY RACING FORCED INDUCTION Q&A

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by bhvrdr

Hello Sir,

Thanks so much for taking questions.


I have a 2010 L99 that I have the following on:

-LSA Conversion - TVS1900 on 2.75" pulley
-ZL1 52lb injectors
-ADM FPCM
-ZL1 Fuel Pump
-Roto-Fab intake
-2.5" catback

stock headers, stock cams, stock mostly everything else on the car


I'm currently making 9psi of boost all across the rev band and full throttle. The car is right around 450whp and running well. I get a maximum of about 1 degree of knock retard. IATS are remarkably well in check at around 40C or lower in the 95 degree S florida heat we have been having.


I road course the car. It needs to be able to sustain high rpm driving for lap after lap in the 90 degree South Florida heat and humidity.


I have a set of 1 7/8" LT headers at home with HFC. I also have a 2.5" pulley at home. Neither of these have been installed yet.


I'd like this car to remain a bit stealthy. I dont want a loud obnoxious car. If I do the 2.5" pulley i'll be at about 11psi and perhaps around 490whp? Is this a safe thing to do?


If I do headers but dont add the 2.5" pulley will I make much power (since I may drop boost?) or will I need to bring the boost back up after doing the headers by also adding the 2.5" pulley?


Basically, what would be the maximum safe thing to do here before considering a cam upgrade considering I am running the L99 valvetrain? Should I just stay at the 450whp and be happy until ready for a cam?


Thanks again.

Mike

Hello Mike,

9 psi is about all your pump gas will handle.

I would hope you connected the IAT sensor in the blower because that IAT number does not sound correct.

Before you do anything else you need to Add Long Tube headers with high flow cats.

This will increase Air flow across the engine, increase power and lower boost leaving you more room to grow on pump gas.

You should be able to get closer to 500 RWHP because you will also be able to add a degree or 2 of timing with Headers.

Then I would recommend a Cam again increasing air flow across the engine both increasing power, lowering boost, then you can add a pulley and make 550 RWHP on pump gas with max reliability.

Ted.

[bhvrdr]

Thanks so much sir.

The IAT of 40 is 40 degrees Celsius. Its tends to run 15 degrees cooler than my supercharged Audi S4 (TVS1320) that runs about 14psi of boost.

I'll do the headers next then and see if I cant put some resonators on the rear pipes to keep the volume controlled a bit.


Will I make much power just adding headers if I lose the boost? If not maybe i'll just wait until I am ready to cam and then add the headers and cam at the same time so I can increase boost at that time? Sound right?

Thanks again!


Mike

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by bhvrdr

Thanks so much sir.

The IAT of 40 is 40 degrees Celsius. Its tends to run 15 degrees cooler than my supercharged Audi S4 (TVS1320) that runs about 14psi of boost.

I'll do the headers next then and see if I cant put some resonators on the rear pipes to keep the volume controlled a bit.


Will I make much power just adding headers if I lose the boost? If not maybe i'll just wait until I am ready to cam and then add the headers and cam at the same time so I can increase boost at that time? Sound right?

Thanks again!

Mike

40 C converts to 104F highly questionable.

Is you IAT sensor connected in the supercharger?

Follow my recipe and you cant go wrong.

There are right ways and wrong ways to gain power

[bhvrdr]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

40 C converts to 104F highly questionable.

Is you IAT sensor connected in the supercharger?

Follow my recipe and you cant go wrong.

There are right ways and wrong ways to gain power

Yes, the IAT sensor is connected to the two wires that used to go to the MAF sensor. The sensor comes with the LSA kit already installed in the lower driver side of the lid.

The sensor appears to work fine as the reading do shoot up 20 degrees higher after you turn the car off and the coolant is no longer flowing through the IC and air is no longer flowing over the manifold. It cools back down well once you start the car back up and start moving. I've seen 38 - 46 degrees or so under WOT in the 90 degree days here. I see up to 65c when the car is turned off but it quickly recovers back down to 40-45 degrees when I start it back and and get it moving.


I datalog at all times when driving. I have a TS Live hooked up as a guage pack in the car and I monitor 12 variables at all times (throttle pos, rpm, manifold pressure, st fuel trims, timing, knock retard, IAT, ECT, fuel pressure, and after this weekend the wideband AFR I am hooking up)


Is there something you are seeing wrong?


Thanks for the advice. I do appreciate you sharing your knowledge! I'll go headers then cams and only then more boost.


Mike

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by bhvrdr

Yes, the IAT sensor is connected to the two wires that used to go to the MAF sensor. The sensor comes with the LSA kit already installed in the lower driver side of the lid.

The sensor appears to work fine as the reading do shoot up 20 degrees higher after you turn the car off and the coolant is no longer flowing through the IC and air is no longer flowing over the manifold. It cools back down well once you start the car back up and start moving. I've seen 38 - 46 degrees or so under WOT in the 90 degree days here. I see up to 65c when the car is turned off but it quickly recovers back down to 40-45 degrees when I start it back and and get it moving.


I datalog at all times when driving. I have a TS Live hooked up as a guage pack in the car and I monitor 12 variables at all times (throttle pos, rpm, manifold pressure, st fuel trims, timing, knock retard, IAT, ECT, fuel pressure, and after this weekend the wideband AFR I am hooking up)


Is there something you are seeing wrong?


Thanks for the advice. I do appreciate you sharing your knowledge! I'll go headers then cams and only then more boost.


Mike

The IAT cal may need to be adjusted to read accurately.

[bhvrdr]

Thanks again very much. I'll check the reading when the car has been sitting for 8 hours. I assume it should be reading ambient temp then. If reading too low then make an adjustment based on how low its reading? Have a great weekend!

Mike

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by bhvrdr

Thanks again very much. I'll check the reading when the car has been sitting for 8 hours. I assume it should be reading ambient temp then. If reading too low then make an adjustment based on how low its reading? Have a great weekend!

Mike

It is funny because I had an LSA coversion on the dyno while we were discussing your IAT readings and I experienced the same as you Low readings for the conditions.

40C-105F would be normal on an 85-90 degree day or with the car light throttle cruising.

I had to put in a different IAT cal for that sensor to get it right.

Ted.

[bhvrdr]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

It is funny because I had an LSA coversion on the dyno while we were discussing your IAT readings and I experienced the same as you Low readings for the conditions.

40C-105F would be normal on an 85-90 degree day or with the car light throttle cruising.

I had to put in a different IAT cal for that sensor to get it right.

Ted.

How do you cross check it to know how off it is? Do you take out the iat sensor and rig in a calibrated external sensor in its place and then take that reading to compare?

I only ask because I just checked and it's reading a 90 degree ambient temp right now after the car sits for 8 hours which is ambient right now sow if it's off its not static I guess.

Thanks. Just tell me to stop if I take up too much of your time lol. I'm happy to pay a negligible consulting fee at some point

Mike

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by bhvrdr

How do you cross check it to know how off it is? Do you take out the iat sensor and rig in a calibrated external sensor in its place and then take that reading to compare?

I only ask because I just checked and it's reading a 90 degree ambient temp right now after the car sits for 8 hours which is ambient right now sow if it's off its not static I guess.

Thanks. Just tell me to stop if I take up too much of your time lol. I'm happy to pay a negligible consulting fee at some point

Mike

Key on engine off after sitting over night at Sun up, will give you an indication of the IAT cal by comparing to ECT

[1FAST SS]

Ted,

Looking to add a supercharger to my L99. Have a couple questions about two different superchargers.

Currently, I have CAI, ARH LT, off road pipes, and a cam. Makes about 440 rwhp now. Goal is 600-650. Looking at either a LSA conversion or Whipple. Cost wise LSA is a couple grand cheaper. Goal wise is the LSA the way to go and will it make the 600-650 rwhp I'm looking to make?

Second question is what other mods (injectors, fuel pump, etc) will be needed with either supercharger? Car isn't daily driven, but I still take is out on a regular basis.

[hammdo]

LSA, Not without a cam and maybe a pulley. I'm at almost 600rwhp with a VVT SS1 cam, ported heads, headers, CAI, ZL1 pump, ADM FPCM and the LSA kit. Running stock pulley and injectors... L99 A6... 6 PSI Boost...

-Don

[MS7]

last run it was 557 rwhp i asked my tuner to make the tune extra safe because we have very nice weather 86f(_) & 91 octane with 8psi. so what i have to do to be around 600rwhp.
if i add 3.0 pulley it will be ok with my mode below?. i think the psi will be 11 or 12.

SLP jackshaft supercharger
ls9 cam
cai intake
LT headers
x pip with stock exhaust
3.4 pulley
JRE Super Tensioner
ID850
ZL-1 fuel pump
FPC ADM
ZR-1 3 bar Map sensor
TR7IX plugs
91 octane
AEM methanol without timing up

thank you

[CyberPredator]

I have the IPS kit on my car. I believe the fabberage kit is the same. Since IPS is no longer around do you happen to sell the GT3794s designed for the kit?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by 1FAST SS

Ted,

Looking to add a supercharger to my L99. Have a couple questions about two different superchargers.

Currently, I have CAI, ARH LT, off road pipes, and a cam. Makes about 440 rwhp now. Goal is 600-650. Looking at either a LSA conversion or Whipple. Cost wise LSA is a couple grand cheaper. Goal wise is the LSA the way to go and will it make the 600-650 rwhp I'm looking to make?

Second question is what other mods (injectors, fuel pump, etc) will be needed with either supercharger? Car isn't daily driven, but I still take is out on a regular basis.

Sorry I missed your question, the darn notifications still aren't working on this site.

If 650 is your max end goal then the 1.9 will do a good job for you.

We all know that in this game our current goal will continue to rise, in that case the 2.9 will have a lot more head room for growth.

The whipple also has a much larger intercooler system and will run cooler under all conditions.

For your 650 RWHP goal, your cam profile will play a big role in reaching it or not.

You will also need.

Injectors, I suggest ID-850s again they will leave you more head room and do a perfect job.

Fuel pump, the ZL-1 pump FPCM combo is good to 650 RWHP and 700 RWHP with a Voltage booster added.

My personal preference would be the Whipple for the reasons above.

Ted.