How to install air-to-oil engine oil cooler

[The Flash]

I just found your thread.

It is very insightful. For one I did not know that trick which you explained to crank the LS3 engine without pulling fuses.

I also learned that the Oil Temp Gauge does not provides an actual mesure of the temperature but instead gives out an “estimate” based on algorithms from the manufacturer.

While it is disappointing , it finally provided an explanation as to why I have encountered occasional discrepancies between the “gear/mechanical” temp gauge, the engine temp indicator and the oil temp gauge, the oil temp being the one that was in discrepancy with the others or making less sense to the driving I was doing at the time.

In my neck of the wood the temperatures are high, summer or winter, which as made me an advocate of any and all mods which improve engine/transmission and brakes cooling and a zealot of “heat mitigating practices”.
I often credit these two factors in allowing my PONTIAC FIREBIRD to reach 20 yrs this past march in pretty top shape.

So initially I would be all for doing this mod to my 2SS.

However, the mod you effected is not only challenging from an execution point of view but also is relatively expensive.

Hence, I would like to ask you, what was the main reason behind your decision to replace the OEM oil cooler?

Also I would like to ask if you did any sort of measurements before and after this mod and what were your results, in other words, would this mod be worth it for a regular Joe who does not autocrosses or drag races his LS3 but indulges in spirited driving sessions at least twice a month?

Your comments will be much, much appreciated.

Best regards,


The Flash

[X25]

Originally Posted by The Flash

I just found your thread.

It is very insightful. For one I did not know that trick which you explained to crank the LS3 engine without pulling fuses.

I also learned that the Oil Temp Gauge does not provides an actual mesure of the temperature but instead gives out an “estimate” based on algorithms from the manufacturer.

While it is disappointing , it finally provided an explanation as to why I have encountered occasional discrepancies between the “gear/mechanical” temp gauge, the engine temp indicator and the oil temp gauge, the oil temp being the one that was in discrepancy with the others or making less sense to the driving I was doing at the time.

In my neck of the wood the temperatures are high, summer or winter, which as made me an advocate of any and all mods which improve engine/transmission and brakes cooling and a zealot of “heat mitigating practices”.
I often credit these two factors in allowing my PONTIAC FIREBIRD to reach 20 yrs this past march in pretty top shape.

So initially I would be all for doing this mod to my 2SS.

However, the mod you effected is not only challenging from an execution point of view but also is relatively expensive.

Hence, I would like to ask you, what was the main reason behind your decision to replace the OEM oil cooler?

Also I would like to ask if you did any sort of measurements before and after this mod and what were your results, in other words, would this mod be worth it for a regular Joe who does not autocrosses or drag races his LS3 but indulges in spirited driving sessions at least twice a month?

Your comments will be much, much appreciated.

Best regards,


The Flash

It's great that my posts were useful!

I'll just write down my thoughts, and leave it to you to decide what to use out of

It's true that the OEM system is challenged when it comes to shedding enough heat off of the oil system, but it actually already has, say, 70% of the cooling capacity needed for the job. In other words, we're not starting from scratch when it comes to cooling the engine temps. The problem is, however, it's very hard to improve the OEM system. You can run 70% water, and also replace the radiator with the larger unit, but it seems the heat exhanger (by the oil pan) is limited in capacity. Fortunately, we have the Z/28 heat exchanger available as an OEM replacement, but that part by itself is more than $400, and the supplemental larger radiator is another $550. When you add up, it becomes the same cost as the kit I created. There are also a few tricks I've seen in the C7 Z06 world like heat-shielding the exhanger from the cats, but I doubt they would be enough if you don't use the Z/28 unit.

Using the kit, you also end up removing the oil cooling job from the radiator. This is actually very important, since coolant temps usually determine the ignition timing your engine decides to stay at, which directly impacts your power figures during your drive or event.

There is an alternative: you can add an additional oil cooler by adding a sandwich to the oil filter. There are two main issues with this: your oil filter will get too close to the bottom of the car, so you should consider relocating it to the higher ground before adding the sandwich. The other is added back pressure. The OEM unit already adds a quite significant amount of back pressure despite its small size (check type of exchangers at Mocal's info site), and we're adding yet another. For this reason, you should choose a unit with as many rows as possible to reduce the pressure drop, which means $500 if you choose Setrab Series 1 72 rows core, for instance. That's quite a bit of money. However, I still think this is an alternative worth looking into, and it's what I did on my supercharged Miata. I actually created a kit for this to try it on my brother's 1LE, but he now wants to sell his car, so I might never get to compare results. The parts are currently dusting in his garage :(

Another benefit of this hybrid is that your engine oil will warm up about twice as fast, aided by the coolant, while it will be only cooled down by the secondary cooler when its thermostat opens up at high temps.

I hope this helps. Long story short, there is no one ultimate way to solve this, and we should keep gathering data. Unfortunately, it's very hard to compare different members' numbers due to changes in the test environment, so modding and driving my brother's car at the same track day and comparing was going to be perfect if only he chose to play!

Note: I don't think this car needs extensive cooling mods for the street and mountain driving. I'd just replace the rad with a larger unit, and use 70% water, which would help every part of the system, even if in limited amount.

[The Flash]

@x25
Thanks for taking the time for your very detailed and again informative response.

Although the whole of your comment is quite insightful, you really put things into context with this sentence - Using the kit, you also end up removing the oil cooling job from the radiator. This is actually very important, since coolant temps usually determine the ignition timing (of) your engine ... –

Fortunately or sadly (from my side of the fence its debatable which one qualifies) none of these two cases apply to my vehicle at this time.

Right there, you identified the one single issue which might by itself justify undertaking this exacting project on the LS3 CAMARO if it were used either as a daily driver (with ultimate goal to prolong engine/components life) or if it were to see track/autocross duty.

Paraphrasing the late Richard M. Nixon, as I read your reasoning on this subject two things become perfectly clear: you have truly analized this subject for quite sometime, and you know the trade offs on this mod back and forth.

Not having even a third of your knowledge on this subject I do concur with your conclusion that we already have a very well developed engine in the LS3 and though further improvement is still achievable we are really talking about fractional, maybe even marginal gains.

Is quite unlike the LT1/LS1 we got on the 4th Generation F-Bodies in which there was a lot to extract, many times quite easily and cheaply too.

I’m going to start planning and go apply your final recommendation : replace the radiator with a larger displacement unit and switch the coolant mix.

Again, I really appreciate your kind advice in this subject.

All the best with your project and I hope you finally gather the data you seek to get definite answers in this issue.

All the best,


The Flash

[X25]

Thanks for your compliments! I'm still learning on the subject, and there are definitely subject-experts who just don't have time to chime-in on the forum threads. I'm sure a larger rad will be a great improvement for your car; enjoy!

Here is a great video on the subject:

[TheBracketeer]

I fitted a Lingenfelder adaptor and remote cooler to my car over the weekend.

I found your write up extremely helpful and saved me time and frustration figuring things out myself.

I hate how close my headers are to the adapter and the hoses. I used expensive heatproof sheaths on both hoses and then wrapped the fittings with heatproof wrap for extra protection. There is arlound 3/8" or more of clearance ... just hate having oil lines that close to the exhaust.

Oh .... one other thing I did. I couldn't buy the block off plug for the side of the block over the weekend ... so I removed the coolant pipe that goes to the OE cooler ... then cut an approx 2" section off the end that goes into the block ... capped it with a rubber cap and hose clamp ... then refitted it into the block. Worked a treat!

[JerTM]

I don't know if it was mentioned before, but I did find a DTC and diagnostic for the engine oil temperature sensor. P0197 and P0198. I suspect they are for the 3.6L only as it says "Monitoring the engine oil temperature is necessary for optimal control of the cam phasers. The oil temperature is monitored from dual function oil level switch and temperature sensor located in the oil pan." LS3 doesn't have a phaser, L99 only has one. But good to know for the V6 guys.

[Crash76]

Is the oil thermostat even needed ? Might take longer to warm up but is that a problem?

[X25]

Originally Posted by Crash76

Is the oil thermostat even needed ? Might take longer to warm up but is that a problem?

My 2 cents:
If you don't remove the OEM cooler, but rather augment it by adding a secondary cooler, a thermostat is not needed since coolant radiator's thermostat will eventually stabilize temps through OEM cooler. However, if you remove the OEM cooler/warmer, I'd highly recommend a thermostat. Keeping oil temps below 200s at all times ultimately increases fuel consumption, and also doesn't let the oil get rid of its water contamination.

[hammdo]

Z/28 heat exchanger? Got a part number for that;o)

What is the difference vs the SS?

-Don

[X25]

Originally Posted by hammdo

Z/28 heat exchanger? Got a part number for that;o)

What is the difference vs the SS?

-Don

I think it was mentioned during the intro that Z/28 comes with a bit bigger exchanger, which allows for faster heat transfer.

[hammdo]

Ah, I'll need to see if the part is available. Like to 'upgrade' since I've already upgraded everything else ;o)

-Don

[KaBoom1701]

Keeping my eye on this thread.

I'd like to address the high oil temps I get when on the track.

[AndrewHolm]

Every morning is Christmas when I see X25 post his 2cents for the day. Very knowledgeable bunch on these forums. Thank you.

[X25]

Originally Posted by AndrewHolm

Every morning is Christmas when I see X25 post his 2cents for the day. Very knowledgeable bunch on these forums. Thank you.

Thanks for your kind words! I'm glad to hear you find them helpful : )